Danb Posted January 2, 2016 Report Share Posted January 2, 2016 I decided to get my hands dirty again, I've twice installed regular door seals and am not happy with the end result I'm going to put in an inflatable one. My question is for those who have them, which brand to purchase ie. Bob Fields, they have three types. Would I get the one with the bulb on the door, on the pilot side or he one with the little compressor? It seems like the one on the door would be the easiest to install. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.. Thanx in advance Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marauder Posted January 3, 2016 Report Share Posted January 3, 2016 I decided to get my hands dirty again, I've twice installed regular door seals and am not happy with the end result I'm going to put in an inflatable one. My question is for those who have them, which brand to purchase ie. Bob Fields, they have three types. Would I get the one with the bulb on the door, on the pilot side or he one with the little compressor? It seems like the one on the door would be the easiest to install. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.. Thanx in advance Dan Dan -- I have the little bulb version that sits on the main door. The one thing you might need to consider is the pressure differentials that I would not experience being non-turbo. I typically pump the seal up and might make an adjustment (pumping it up a little more at higher altitudes). An electric one would eliminate you needing to do that. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piloto Posted January 3, 2016 Report Share Posted January 3, 2016 (edited) For over 20 years I had excellent results with the foam type door seal used on boats. Unlike the rubber seals the foam type molds to the uneven door perimeter making a perfect seal all around 24/7 for when you need to leave the plane on the ramp on a rainy day. It will last at least 5 years. For $4.95 at Home Depot it beats any other seal. José Edited January 3, 2016 by Piloto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yetti Posted January 3, 2016 Report Share Posted January 3, 2016 we were able to put a piece of foam weatherstrip under the edge of the existing. If I was thinking about inflatable, some black latex tubing and a pump out of a blood pressure monitor may make a fine door seal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RocketAviator Posted January 3, 2016 Report Share Posted January 3, 2016 (edited) I have the electric pump version. Works well. I have not seen not seen but am told the bulb version is quite adaquat. My light has gone out once. I had to repair inflatable seal once after wife opened door while inflation, tore a 2" rip. Fields grandson told me what they used to make the seal. I purchased the RTV from McMaster Carr. Going strong for more than a year now. I have had both inflation seal is only way I'd go! Edited January 3, 2016 by RocketAviator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LANCECASPER Posted January 3, 2016 Report Share Posted January 3, 2016 (edited) 2 hours ago, Piloto said: For over 20 years I had excellent results with the foam type door seal used on boats. Unlike the rubber seals the foam type molds to the uneven door perimeter making a perfect seal all around 24/7 for when you need to leave the plane on the ramp on a rainy day. It will last at least 5 years. For $4.95 at Home Depot it beats any other seal. José Believe it or not . . the aviation department at Home Depot has actually lowered the price to $3.98. (Same part # 06635, different packaging now) http://www.homedepot.com/p/MD-Building-Products-3-8-in-x-10-ft-Black-Sponge-Rubber-Foam-Weatherstrip-Tape-06635/100353487?MERCH=REC-_-PIPHorizontal1_rr-_-100355591-_-100353487-_-N Edited January 3, 2016 by LANCECASPER 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Awful_Charlie Posted January 3, 2016 Report Share Posted January 3, 2016 I have the Bob Fields one with the bulb on the boor, and it works very well for reducing the noise. It was installed by a previous owner, and if I was doing it again I'd probably get the bulb extension kit so as to put the bulb somewhere more central: it seems that some pax have great difficulty working out how to tighten or loosen the screw valve and pump up using the bulb, and leaning across their knees isn't always desirable. I don't think I'd bother with the weight and complexity of an electric unit (IIRC there was an AD on (some?) those too), it normally only takes three or four pumps to quieten up the external noise, and it gets tighter as you climb. However, I'm of the KISS line of thinking, so if you can get a foam seal to work well then I'd go that way, particularly for the price of it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danb Posted January 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2016 14 minutes ago, Awful_Charlie said: I have the Bob Fields one with the bulb on the boor, and it works very well for reducing the noise. It was installed by a previous owner, and if I was doing it again I'd probably get the bulb extension kit so as to put the bulb somewhere more central: it seems that some pax have great difficulty working out how to tighten or loosen the screw valve and pump up using the bulb, and leaning across their knees isn't always desirable. I don't think I'd bother with the weight and complexity of an electric unit (IIRC there was an AD on (some?) those too), it normally only takes three or four pumps to quieten up the external noise, and it gets tighter as you climb. However, I'm of the KISS line of thinking, so if you can get a foam seal to work well then I'd go that way, particularly for the price of it Charlie since we both have a Bravo and I assume you fly in the flight levels on occasion, as Chris mentioned should I consider the electric one? I plan on doing it myself and have my a&p check it our, I'm sure I don't have the ability to do the electric model. Also you mentioned the extension, can that be put somewhere between the pilot and copilot seat if so that would make sense. My door doesn't fit very good, when it was two yrs. old I got hit with prop wash from an idiot in a King air and it bent the hinge, after a $3000 repair its never been right. Bob Maxwell on my last annual stated the only way I could quiet it down would be to get the inflatable seal or redo the repair done in 2008 which was not fit properly. He tried a couple of seals to no avail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowflyin Posted January 3, 2016 Report Share Posted January 3, 2016 +1 for Bob F and manual bulb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Awful_Charlie Posted January 3, 2016 Report Share Posted January 3, 2016 9 minutes ago, Danb said: Charlie since we both have a Bravo and I assume you fly in the flight levels on occasion, as Chris mentioned should I consider the electric one? I plan on doing it myself and have my a&p check it our, I'm sure I don't have the ability to do the electric model. Also you mentioned the extension, can that be put somewhere between the pilot and copilot seat if so that would make sense. My door doesn't fit very good, when it was two yrs. old I got hit with prop wash from an idiot in a King air and it bent the hinge, after a $3000 repair its never been right. Bob Maxwell on my last annual stated the only way I could quiet it down would be to get the inflatable seal or redo the repair done in 2008 which was not fit properly. He tried a couple of seals to no avail. Hi Dan Normally up high unless the winds make it unattractive: over here there is a route network change at FL195, so I'm normally FL180/190 or FL200/210, unless pax dictates otherwise (for pax on O2 for the first time I'll normally try FL130/140 until I know how they get on with it), or if there's a stonking tailwind then I'll take it to 240/250 if it's sufficiently advantageous (and as long as it's not too cold - my heater just isn't enough when the OAT gets down to about -30 or so) I don't have the extension, but http://ultimatedoorseals.com/econ_vs_manual.htm suggests the 'Deluxe' model has a more user friendly valve and a longer pipe. Having got the 'Economy' version I might just insert a length of hose and put the bulb on a spring clip somewhere on the center console - I doubt it would be a problem bu I guess I should check with my A&P first. Bad luck on the door damage - that really sucks, and I guess you've run out of options for chasing down the KingAir driver now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yooper Rocketman Posted January 3, 2016 Report Share Posted January 3, 2016 Dan, I installed the Bob Fields inflatable seal right after purchasing my Rocket in 2001. I installed the bulb style with the small curly hose and clip to store it on the door. It takes about 4 pumps to inflate it, I fly in the Flight levels regularly, and am very happy with it. I ALWAYS close and lock the door myself (have had far too many doors pop after passengers close them). I even had the door pop coming into Atlanta on the way back from Sun & Fun, after 2-3 hours up at FL 240. Luckily it popped at 6K and we were only 10 minutes out. On that occasion, the door had been closed by a pilot that had been flying longer than me. That said, I am reaching across my passengers on every flight anyway, so the door seal is just one more step in my pre-flight. I am still using the original seal, but have replaced the curly hose once as it seems to deteriorate over time. I hangar, so imagine the hose life would be even worse if the plane sits outside. I have learned to inflate the seal to about 50% (two pumps) when I am traveling and the bird needs to sit outside on the ramp. Otherwise you will get water inside. Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danb Posted January 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2016 Great thanx guys.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted March 16, 2018 Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 On 1/2/2016 at 10:23 PM, RocketAviator said: I have the electric pump version. Works well. I have not seen not seen but am told the bulb version is quite adaquat. My light has gone out once. I had to repair inflatable seal once after wife opened door while inflation, tore a 2" rip. Fields grandson told me what they used to make the seal. I purchased the RTV from McMaster Carr. Going strong for more than a year now. I have had both inflation seal is only way I'd go! What RTV did they tell you use? I have this same version. I replaced the curly hose and might have another small leak as the auto pump reinflates every five minutes or so. Going to soap it down to find the leak this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KSMooniac Posted March 16, 2018 Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 What RTV did they tell you use? I have this same version. I replaced the curly hose and might have another small leak as the auto pump reinflates every five minutes or so. Going to soap it down to find the leak this weekend. I repaired my Fields seal (with bulb) many years ago and can't remember the RTV... Maybe 106? It was clear. I had numerous cuts in the seal when I got the plane, and ended up making a stent from RC airplane fuel hose, cut the seal in the middle of the cuts, installed the stent with RTV, and it has worked great since then. I replaced the curly hose last year too.Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted March 16, 2018 Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 Thanks for the response. I found this on SkyGeek that is clear RTV108. The 106 appears to be a red version. If you remember it being clear, this is probably it: http://www.skygeek.com/rtv108-3g.html Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LANCECASPER Posted March 16, 2018 Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 http://www.ultimatedoorseals.com/repairs.html 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will.iam Posted January 3, 2023 Report Share Posted January 3, 2023 On 3/16/2018 at 6:21 PM, LANCECASPER said: http://www.ultimatedoorseals.com/repairs.html Wow @LANCECASPER how times have changed. I never knew you could get doorseals from this site. Although i think they are selling a different kind of backdoor seal than what the link used to point to. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LANCECASPER Posted January 3, 2023 Report Share Posted January 3, 2023 15 minutes ago, Will.iam said: Wow @LANCECASPER how times have changed. I never knew you could get doorseals from this site. Although i think they are selling a different kind of backdoor seal than what the link used to point to. Yikes - that's not good. Here's the new website: https://aerocessories.aero/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A64Pilot Posted January 3, 2023 Report Share Posted January 3, 2023 My airplane came with I believe a Bob Fields one, the hose was rotted so I got a hose and bulb from Amazon to replace it. Search for Sphygmomanometer hose. Mine works fine, but I can tell no difference whether it’s inflated or not, it just doesn’t leak. Must be good rubber, way outlasted the hose and bulb and the seal is still fine. I am the only one allowed to touch the door, Good chance a Pax wouldn’t think to deflate an inflatable seal, so especially if you have one, don’t let your pax operate the door. I had someone not quite close the door on the 210 and strip the handle completely forcing the handle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fly Boomer Posted January 6, 2023 Report Share Posted January 6, 2023 On 1/3/2023 at 4:37 PM, A64Pilot said: My airplane came with I believe a Bob Fields one, the hose was rotted so I got a hose and bulb from Amazon to replace it. Search for Sphygmomanometer hose. Mine works fine, but I can tell no difference whether it’s inflated or not, it just doesn’t leak. Must be good rubber, way outlasted the hose and bulb and the seal is still fine. I am the only one allowed to touch the door, Good chance a Pax wouldn’t think to deflate an inflatable seal, so especially if you have one, don’t let your pax operate the door. I had someone not quite close the door on the 210 and strip the handle completely forcing the handle. This reminds me of a recent thought experiment. If my one-and-only ingress/egress is inop because the handle fell off (or whatever) AND IF if had a passenger-side storm window, I wonder if it would be possible to reach the outside handle. I'm 6'4" (or was) so I have pretty long arms. Oh, and just in case you are going to suggest the baggage door -- there is just no way my carcass is getting out that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A64Pilot Posted January 7, 2023 Report Share Posted January 7, 2023 I would consider a storm window installation on the pax side as a minor mod myself. Another consideration might be installation of snap vents https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/snapvents2.php If I went that route I’d mount them on both sides and much further back ensuring you could open the door, you just squeeze them together to remove them and you can get your arm out at least to the elbow, but matching storm windows would probably look better, but the snap vents would really blow a lot of ait into the back seat for passengers not feeling so well. Snap vents are real easy to install with just a hole saw, practice on some scrap first, I had to chuck the hole saw in a drill press and file down the outside teeth slightly to make the hole slightly smaller to get a tight fit. I assume the storm door would take a router and template with someone who knew what they were doing? I think I would end up breaking the window. Of course make sure the hole would be big enough. I’ve heard but not done it that a pair of vise grips and a screwdriver will get you out of a Mooney though. Might be easier to put them in the seat back pocket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JjnasHg Posted February 22, 2023 Report Share Posted February 22, 2023 On 3/17/2018 at 6:05 AM, KSMooniac said: I repaired my Fields seal (with bulb) many years ago and can't remember the RTV... Maybe 106? It was clear. I had numerous cuts in the seal when I got the plane, and ended up making a stent from RC airplane fuel hose, cut the seal in the middle of the cuts, installed the stent with RTV, and it has worked great since then. I replaced the curly hose last year too. Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk Hi, interested in the cut repair method you used, is there any em...(kind of ) guidance handbook or standard that I can follow to do this repair? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KSMooniac Posted February 22, 2023 Report Share Posted February 22, 2023 Not really... the RTV 106 (I think) was recommended by the company to seal minor leaks. I had a cluster of damage that I felt was compromised too much to fix externally, so I cut the seal, cut a section of RC fuel hose to length, and spliced my cut door seal with it + RTV on the outside of my "stent" (inside of the seal). That made a local area that did not inflate, but restored fuction to the rest of the seal pretty well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danb Posted February 22, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2023 Inflatable bulb close to right hand by throttle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milotron Posted February 23, 2023 Report Share Posted February 23, 2023 8 hours ago, Danb said: Inflatable bulb close to right hand by throttle This looks good. What does the hose transition from the door to dash look like? Does it get caught or pinched at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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