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Pirep of Andoer Wireless Mobile Cell Phone PDA GSM Remote Control 3 Socket Power Outlet Smart Switch


Houman

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On 12/21/2016 at 5:08 PM, Ratherbflying said:

Has anyone been able to replace the internal fuse on ones of these things yet? On my unit the fuse is soldered in, and after pushing my luck by using a second outlet to configure a heater in the cabin, it is now quite blown.

Guess I should have redone the math.

I've replaced the internal fuse but mine was not soldered in. It has a clip.  Can you send me a pic of the internal of your switch?

yes... don't put too much on that switch.. says 10A but seems to be very sensitive on the load it gets. :)

 

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6 hours ago, Ratherbflying said:

Here is the pic. I circled where the fuse goes (it's already been removed.)

I figured out which fuse to put in, but didn't get over to pick it up before the holiday. I also need some desoldering braid to clean up the holes before I solder the new one in.

Thanks for the help.

IMG_0119.JPG

Interesting. Mine has a clip. See pics. The fuse is a 20mm 10A fuse. You can get them on Amazon Prime pretty cheap.  

IMG_20170101_133811.jpg

IMG_20170101_133821.jpg

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16 hours ago, Heybluez said:

Interesting. Mine has a clip. See pics. The fuse is a 20mm 10A fuse. You can get them on Amazon Prime pretty cheap.  

Wow, I am jealous. Mine has a wimpy 10mm fuse, and it's soldered on to the board, not clipped.

12 hours ago, Marauder said:

Thanks for posting the internals. The document that came with it showed a 2200W capacity. I'm running my Reiff rated at 600W and a small ceramic heater putting out 800W at the same time. No issues thus far.


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That is pretty much the exact load I had on it when the fuse blew. I had just added the ceramic block heater this year. It worked for the duration of my test when I set things up, but the first time I used it for real (turning the ceramic heater on 30 minutes before I got to the airport) I arrived to find the fuse blown.

I considered trying to modify the fuse to make it a bit more robust, but I'm going to add one of these to the setup instead:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WV7GMA2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

IMG_0120.JPG

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That is pretty much the exact load I had on it when the fuse blew. I had just added the ceramic block heater this year. It worked for the duration of my test when I set things up, but the first time I used it for real (turning the ceramic heater on 30 minutes before I got to the airport) I arrived to find the fuse blown.
I considered trying to modify the fuse to make it a bit more robust, but I'm going to add one of these to the setup instead:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WV7GMA2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
IMG_0120.JPG


I can't tell from the pictures or the Amazon site how it will connect to the Andoer. Will you run a power cord to the relay to switch it on? Be interested in a PIREP once you have it installed.


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In the picture, on the right hand side, there is a green-ish 2 wire connector. This is the signal voltage and it can accept either AC or DC. So my plan is to take an old cell phone charger, cut the connector off, strip the wires, and input to the relay. Then I can plug the block into the Andoer. 

Sorry for being so slow to get this done, but I still have guests coming and going for the holidays. Here is how I plan to wire it:

1. Wall outlet to the Andoer.

2. Andoer Socket 1 - to the engine heater.

3. Andoer Socket 2 - modified cell phone charger to the relay.

4. Wall outlet to the Relay.

5. Ceramic block heater plugged in to the relay.

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1 hour ago, Ratherbflying said:

I read the description of the usage in the documentation with the switch. Looks like you can command it to turn on if the temp is below or above a certain temp. Once you play around with this, let me know if it can be used in conjunction with the timing feature. I would love to be able to tell it to turn on every Saturday and Sunday if the temp is below 40 degrees. 

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That does look like the correct temperature probe for that unit, but it isn't a thermocouple.. It will be a RTD and I see 3 wires in the pictures.

My AT&T sim went offline at 12/31/2016..(and reception had been really spotty the last 6 months as they took towers off line)

So I have a t-mobile sim on order. 

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OK, fuse is fixed. Relay is installed. Works like a champ.

Using an old cell phone charger to supply the control signal. Whacked the old connector off, stripped the wires, and attached the relay connector. This relay box is a very elegant design. It is rated for 1440 watts, which is just a titch less than the 1500 watt ceramic heater on high heat, but the relay includes an On/Off breaker switch. If you do inadvertently pull too much, should be able to just manually reset the circuit.

IMG_0125.JPG

IMG_0126.JPG

 

And here it is deployed in the hangar. It will be nice to hop in to a warm cabin and not have the gyros screech from the cold when I flip the master on.

IMG_0124.JPG

 

 

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OK, fuse is fixed. Relay is installed. Works like a champ.
Using an old cell phone charger to supply the control signal. Whacked the old connector off, stripped the wires, and attached the relay connector. This relay box is a very elegant design. It is rated for 1440 watts, which is just a titch less than the 1500 watt ceramic heater on high heat, but the relay includes an On/Off breaker switch. If you do inadvertently pull too much, should be able to just manually reset the circuit.
IMG_0125.JPG
IMG_0126.JPG
 
And here it is deployed in the hangar. It will be nice to hop in to a warm cabin and not have the gyros screech from the cold when I flip the master on.
IMG_0124.JPG
 
 


Thanks for posting this write-up. My ceramic heater can pull 1500 W, so I will need to check it on with my watt gizmo to see if the 1440 W isn't an issue.

When I get that temp probe, I will provide an update on the functionality.


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33 minutes ago, Marauder said:

 


Thanks for posting this write-up. My ceramic heater can pull 1500 W, so I will need to check it on with my watt gizmo to see if the 1440 W isn't an issue.
 

 

Does your heater have a Low or Medium setting? I ran mine on Low for a good twenty minutes and the relay handled it well.

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Does your heater have a Low or Medium setting? I ran mine on Low for a good twenty minutes and the relay handled it well.


Yeah, I have an 800 and 1500 watt setting. Been running it on the 800 W setting but if I can squeeze out 1500 W, it would warm things up a bit quicker.


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The t-mobile sim arrived, and worked without a problem (well, I had to call them manually to get the new phone# since they assumed you would be putting it in a phone and could just dial #NUM#. )

So, we are back online until 2020. 

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The t-mobile sim arrived, and worked without a problem (well, I had to call them manually to get the new phone# since they assumed you would be putting it in a phone and could just dial #NUM#. )
So, we are back online until 2020. 


That is my pet peeve with t-mobile as well. In addition, you can't set up an account in their website to put funds in" it requires you to text yourself an access code to set up the account.


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16 minutes ago, Marauder said:


That is my pet peeve with t-mobile as well. In addition, you can't set up an account in their website to put funds in" it requires you to text yourself an access code to set up the account.
 

 

Yes, I just ran into that... I think I'll have to find an old 2G full size sim phone... (or go to the store)   my only one on hand is a original iphone locked to AT&T.   I passed on my original omnipoint-->Tmobile GSM phones in 2001. 

Tmobile said they were specifically targeting Iot services since AT&T started the shutdown.. but obviously aren't really there for support. 

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Here is the pic. I circled where the fuse goes (it's already been removed.)
I figured out which fuse to put in, but didn't get over to pick it up before the holiday. I also need some desoldering braid to clean up the holes before I solder the new one in.
Thanks for the help.
IMG_0119.JPG


Which fuse holder did you buy? I am going to see if any of the local hardware stores have fuse holders. I'm not sure Radio Shack is in business any longer.


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