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Alex's M20D (continuous thread)


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11 hours ago, Raptor05121 said:

I'd REALLY like to re-rig the airplane because if you let go, she will go into a 20 degree bank to the right after 10-15 seconds. I have to fly by resting my left hand on the yoke to hold straight and level. But I'm lost on how to go about doing this.

Ok, wild idea. After your annual, plan a flight to Texas to get in some quality formation flying time the the Texas Wing. On the way here or on the way back, stop by the Oracle of Longview and get your rigging done. Maxwell is certainly one place you can get the rigging done RIGHT. He regularly adds knots to Mooneys by correcting other's bad rigging jobs. 

Of course, while you're in Texas, we'll make sure to get you plenty of quality formation time that you can take back to FL with you. :D

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As a starting point, with the control wheels level in the cockpit,  the mass balance at the tip of the aileron should be evenly spaced in the wing tip cut out.  The outboard ends of the flaps should line up with the inboard ends of the ailerons.  

Aileron trailing edges may be bent down to correct a heavy wing.  Some people do make a mess of control rigging.

The Mooney travel board for the wings will allow you to be more accurate and to,set the travel stops.

With the plane levelled laterally and longitudinally the ball in your turn coordinator should be centred, mis adjustment and sagging panel mount effect this.

Clarence

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Hangar before:
23722371_10155911529409640_5190137908439

Hangar after:

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My girlfriend thought she could pull the plane out but she forgot the tow bar slips sometimes

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In other news, shoutout to @Sven for the persuasion to redo the wing walk material. I couldn't find the aluminum tape at my local Lowe's, so I used masking tape.

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I'll have more tomorrow afternoon.

 

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3 hours ago, Raptor05121 said:

23800229_10155911739389640_6495729990071
 

Mine used to do that, but I put it in a vise and bent it a little bit so that the angle on the end is a bit less than 90-degrees.   It doesn't slip out any more.  You can bend it back in the middle if you want it to pull centered.

Like so:

 

 

20170923_200042.jpg

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5 hours ago, Hank said:

Mine never slipped out, but it was old and rusty and I got tired of having to wipe my hands after using it. So I had it powder coated, it's clean, looks good and slips out . . .

Hank,

Add a piece of heat shrink tubing for added friction.

Clarence

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7 hours ago, Hank said:

Mine never slipped out, but it was old and rusty and I got tired of having to wipe my hands after using it. So I had it powder coated, it's clean, looks good and slips out . . .

I was just thinking of that yesterday since I'm about to do my yokes and wheels.

5 hours ago, AlexLev said:

Just add some lubrication and it will slip in and out fine...

Thats the problem- its pretty well soaked in the slot

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22 hours ago, Raptor05121 said:

Hangar before:
23722371_10155911529409640_5190137908439

Hangar after:

23722713_10155911529479640_9646204434663

My girlfriend thought she could pull the plane out but she forgot the tow bar slips sometimes

23800229_10155911739389640_6495729990071

In other news, shoutout to @Sven for the persuasion to redo the wing walk material. I couldn't find the aluminum tape at my local Lowe's, so I used masking tape.

23795585_10155912390954640_2869465554070

23754868_10155912390989640_9054217389210

23844515_10155912391054640_8167107849782

23794745_10155912391094640_1771370820513

23755347_10155912391154640_2246038633706

23843216_10155912391344640_5765277199758

23755501_10155912391424640_5405738188177

I'll have more tomorrow afternoon.

 

Alex,

Paint stripper is no fun in eyes and on skin.  Your pretty friend deserves gloves and glasses.

Clarence

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Wing walk is complete! There must have been 3 or so laters of old wingwalk, you can tell they just reapplied layer after layer. I'm glad to have stripped it all and started fresh. Randolph's Wing Walk Compound is 10x better than your standard truck bed liner, and it's only $30.

I've got about $80 and 6 man hours of labor in this but it came out GREAT!

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First light coat:

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Medium 2nd coat:

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Final thickest coat:

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Also I'm building a new Stratux. I have a first gen with the Rpi 2 and older SDRs that are about 2 years old, so this will be a nice upgrade. I still need the case and AHRS chip.
 

23800078_10155918230104640_7025314569803

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A quick note, does  not apply to Raptor’s plane that had multiple caked on layers of wing walk already:   I refreshed my wingwalk over the summer without stripping first - merely cleaning and degreasing the surface, applying the standard masking tape, and painting on top with a roller.  I did so based on suggestion of a previous thread here.  It worked great as far as I can tell so far - adheres very well to the old wing walk and lets one skip a messy step. Only tip would be to really take ones time resuspending the grit in the paint can, and do so repeatedly after pouring it into the tray. Also let it dry for multiple days, up to a week if possible, before using.

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58 minutes ago, Raptor05121 said:

YES! I forgot to mention that. I found the isle in Lowe's with 30 different types of tape EXCEPT for aluminum tape, so I tried the blue painter's tape and the stripper will soak through it. I had to extend the wing walk by 2-3" inches to cover that. Turns out the aluminum tape is in the HVAC section. FFS.

Does the stripper not invade under the edge of the aluminum tape?

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On 11/22/2017 at 4:20 PM, Raptor05121 said:

Sorry I'm just seeing this Raptor05121 or I would have warned you to only use aluminum tape. But now you know that. I hope it didn't increase the wing walk real estate too much.

 

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9 hours ago, DXB said:

A quick note, does  not apply to Raptor’s plane that had multiple caked on layers of wing walk already:   I refreshed my wingwalk over the summer without stripping first - merely cleaning and degreasing the surface, applying the standard masking tape, and painting on top with a roller.  I did so based on suggestion of a previous thread here.  It worked great as far as I can tell so far - adheres very well to the old wing walk and lets one skip a messy step. Only tip would be to really take ones time resuspending the grit in the paint can, and do so repeatedly after pouring it into the tray. Also let it dry for multiple days, up to a week if possible, before using.

Yes, in between layers I kept pouring it back in the can and stirring like a mad man. The sand goes to the bottom quite quickly.

9 hours ago, DonMuncy said:

Does the stripper not invade under the edge of the aluminum tape?

No, not at all.

6 hours ago, Sven said:

 

Lesson learned. And to be honest, I do like the larger real estate for the wing walk. I always thought mine was a bit narrow.

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Aluminum tape tends to stick very well, and can be difficult to remove.  If you first put down masking tape with the edge back 1/4-1/2” from the stripper line, then apply aluminum tape over the masking tape up to the edge of the stripper line it make removal much easier.

Aluminum tape is usually impervious to stripper where masking tape is not.

Clarence

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Mid annual. Everything is checking out A-okay so far. Last year's annual was so thorough and complete that everything is still in spec and just going around lubing and checking. Compressions 76, 78, 78, 77. All spark plugs under 1k ohms, clean, gapped, rotated. Oil change complete, swapped air filter. AD's completed. We've found the rigging to be off-kilter, and explains why it has a right-banking tendency. So we will fix that tomorrow. A couple heim joints on the flaps are starting to get bit loose just a wee bit of slop, I will order some new ones and swap those out. 

Tomorrow we rebuild the fuel selector and jack it up to play with the gear. I cannot wait to get my new tires on (Thanks @LASAR!!!). I also got my Whelen Chroma-series drop-in LED bulbs in for some pictures. Of course Whelen still says they are expecting full approval from the FAA so we are waiting on those to keep everything kosher. 

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Not that I’m trying to burst your bubble cuz it looks great, but a metal scraper on the metal wing??? Big no no & should use plastic or phenolic scraper instead. Did you reapply the zinc chromate paint over all the bare metal?? I really hope so....


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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