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Fuel tank sealant removal machine


isaacpr7

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Thanks, 

I was hoping to be able to take care of both tanks with 1 5 lb tub. we are in the finishing stages of building a house and the wife says that comes before spending a few grand on the plane so I may have to wait to get things started.

Brian

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  • 2 weeks later...
Thanks, 

I was hoping to be able to take care of both tanks with 1 5 lb tub. we are in the finishing stages of building a house and the wife says that comes before spending a few grand on the plane so I may have to wait to get things started.

Brian

It all depends on the condition of the sealant you are trying to remove. My thickest layer was newer and harder. That came completely off on the first application. The rest had a consistency of chewing gum and took many applications of gel to remove completely.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

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  • 2 weeks later...

All right fellow Mooniacs. Sorry it took me so long to post these numbers but moving has been an adventure I'm hoping to forget soon.

Here is the final report on a full strip and reseal for an M20C (2 fuel bays only). Take into consideration that I had never done something like this and I learned many tricks along the way that would have shaved some of those hours off but not too many.

Full Strip of right wing (2 bays) = 31h 8m

Reseal of the same = 22h 2m

Total Time Invested = 53h 10m

As I began to in-process my new unit I found out that I will be gone for another deployment in the next few months so the other tank will have to wait for another year.  As I mentioned before, I intend to strip the other tank with the recirculating machine I made so the stripping time should be reduced exponentially, however, I believe I should be able to shave a couple of hours from the sealing process as well since I now have some experience and learned from my mistakes.

I was able to have the resealed tank fueled yesterday after drying for a few weeks and there are zero leaks :D

Edited by isaacpr7
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  • 3 months later...

Hey again Issac - Fellow Mooniacs.....keeping the fuel tank old thread alive...

So for all the Mooney do-it-yourselfers I've finally got around to finalizing my list like Issac did. He was about 3 steps ahead of me doing my fuel tank.  For a short recap - Both wing tanks were leaking on a 231 that I bought in February. Knew it when I bought it so a non-issue.  Left one was leaking, right one seeping so decided to do the left tank with a complete strip and reseal.  I've built a couple airplanes, dragsters, street cars, etc so was happy to dive right in to my fuel tanks. Would I do it again, yep, going to do the right tank during the winter, even though California winter isn't much, just a good time for an excuse to do it.

My 231 has four bays of fuel on each side, two large inboard, two smaller outboard (37.8 usable/side) so my stats will be different than Issac's, he had two/side.  I tend to work a little slower but more methodical so instead of mixing the quarts I decided on mostly using the pint kits which worked well with my speed. (Actual set-up times were a bit longer than the manufacturer claimed which was a great)  I did the bulk of the resealing at 70-85 ° and had the B2 lasting up to 3.5 hours before starting to set.

Here's my complete list of materials:  (I was not intent on utilizing every drop of each component, rather accepting from the start that my timing and product quantity/set-up timing may cause me to waste some material- part of the cost of doing it myself)

  • 4 - pt kits CS3204 B2     (1/2 pt left over)     $13.52/pt kit - Skygeek             $54
  • 2 -qt kits CS3204 A2      (1/4 qt left over)       41.84/qt kit - Skygeek               84
  • 1 - qt can CS3600          (1/8 can left over)     52.50/qt     - Skygeek               53
  • 1 - pt kit 3330 Panel sealer  (1/4 left)              33.60/pt     - Skygeek               34
  • 1 - Poly Gone 310 Gel    (used it all)               295.00/5lb  - A/C Spruce        300
  • 3 - qt cans paint stripper   (used it all)              10/qt          - Home Depot        30  (yes, flushed liberally with water/neutralized rinsed/flushed with acetone)
  • 3 - gal Acetone                (used it all)               10/gal         - Home Depot        30
  • 1 - Air Sealant gun-w/o handle     (used from Yardstore.com  Amazing aircraft tool surplus)  $80  (included all 3 size cups-like new!)
  • 6 - sealant tubes (3- 3oz- 3 6 oz)  (never used the 6 oz tubes)   $2 ea            12
  • 5 - 4 in plastic nozzles -plain straight  (used heat gun to make my own 45° bent tubes)  $2 ea   10
  • 2 - 3 paks of brass/stainless brushes                $5/pak        -Home Depot        10
  • 1 - box Chip brushes    (for applying some sealant)  $6/box  Harbor Freight    $6
  • 1 - 6 Roll thick paper towels  (used 'em all)                  -grocery store               $8             
  • 3 - rolls paint/body shop tape   (to protect painted edges during panel R&R)  6/roll   $18
  • Total cost  ($729)    Far cry from $5000 and it was fun too.

I didn't keep perfect hours in a log but I had just at 75-80 hours. I am a builder and enjoy working on this stuff so it's more fun than a chore.  I have about 200 photos of the process and some techniques.  It's not difficult by any means, but you have to go into it understanding that it will not happen over night. I can post more if anyone's interested.  My AI seen it along the way and noted that he'd had Mooney's and seen it attempted several times...looked like factory he said... I let it set for 4 days after completion, fueled with graduated amounts to set/verify my wing sight/gauges and to get accurate quantity. Let set for 3 more days, rechecked all access ports - no leaks. Test flew, perfect. AI signed it off with a smile and a pat on the back. Finished it July 4th weekend just in time for a holiday flight.  No leaks to date, all's well and looking forward to doing the right side to fix that one pesky seep.  As a side note, I saved a sample of each mix to be kept with the logs. Not required but great to have.                                               

Thank you Isaac and others for your help and advice along the way. It's so great to have never actually met someone but to know that we're all here to help each other!

As a disclaimer I wouldn't recommend the average guy using the paint stripper unless you're Very familiar with metallurgy and sheet metal working. It is only to be used in short duration and REQUIRES proper flushing.  It really isn't a necessity to do this job but I had as many as 4 layers of old sealant applied to cut through. Just sped up the removal of the very thick layers.  You can probably see our discussions on this in earlier pages of this thread.

 

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Hey again Issac - Fellow Mooniacs.....keeping the fuel tank old thread alive...
So for all the Mooney do-it-yourselfers I've finally got around to finalizing my list like Issac did. He was about 3 steps ahead of me doing my fuel tank.  For a short recap - Both wing tanks were leaking on a 231 that I bought in February. Knew it when I bought it so a non-issue.  Left one was leaking, right one seeping so decided to do the left tank with a complete strip and reseal.  I've built a couple airplanes, dragsters, street cars, etc so was happy to dive right in to my fuel tanks. Would I do it again, yep, going to do the right tank during the winter, even though California winter isn't much, just a good time for an excuse to do it.
My 231 has four bays of fuel on each side, two large inboard, two smaller outboard (37.8 usable/side) so my stats will be different than Issac's, he had two/side.  I tend to work a little slower but more methodical so instead of mixing the quarts I decided on mostly using the pint kits which worked well with my speed. (Actual set-up times were a bit longer than the manufacturer claimed which was a great)  I did the bulk of the resealing at 70-85 ° and had the B2 lasting up to 3.5 hours before starting to set.
Here's my complete list of materials:  (I was not intent on utilizing every drop of each component, rather accepting from the start that my timing and product quantity/set-up timing may cause me to waste some material- part of the cost of doing it myself)
  • 4 - pt kits CS3204 B2     (1/2 pt left over)     $13.52/pt kit - Skygeek             $54
  • 2 -qt kits CS3204 A2      (1/4 qt left over)       41.84/qt kit - Skygeek               84
  • 1 - qt can CS3600          (1/8 can left over)     52.50/qt     - Skygeek               53
  • 1 - pt kit 3330 Panel sealer  (1/4 left)              33.60/pt     - Skygeek               34
  • 1 - Poly Gone 310 Gel    (used it all)               295.00/5lb  - A/C Spruce        300
  • 3 - qt cans paint stripper   (used it all)              10/qt          - Home Depot        30  (yes, flushed liberally with water/neutralized rinsed/flushed with acetone)
  • 3 - gal Acetone                (used it all)               10/gal         - Home Depot        30
  • 1 - Air Sealant gun-w/o handle     (used from Yardstore.com  Amazing aircraft tool surplus)  $80  (included all 3 size cups-like new!)
  • 6 - sealant tubes (3- 3oz- 3 6 oz)  (never used the 6 oz tubes)   $2 ea            12
  • 5 - 4 in plastic nozzles -plain straight  (used heat gun to make my own 45° bent tubes)  $2 ea   10
  • 2 - 3 paks of brass/stainless brushes                $5/pak        -Home Depot        10
  • 1 - box Chip brushes    (for applying some sealant)  $6/box  Harbor Freight    $6
  • 1 - 6 Roll thick paper towels  (used 'em all)                  -grocery store               $8             
  • 3 - rolls paint/body shop tape   (to protect painted edges during panel R&R)  6/roll   $18
  • Total cost  ($729)    Far cry from $5000 and it was fun too.
I didn't keep perfect hours in a log but I had just at 75-80 hours. I am a builder and enjoy working on this stuff so it's more fun than a chore.  I have about 200 photos of the process and some techniques.  It's not difficult by any means, but you have to go into it understanding that it will not happen over night. I can post more if anyone's interested.  My AI seen it along the way and noted that he'd had Mooney's and seen it attempted several times...looked like factory he said... I let it set for 4 days after completion, fueled with graduated amounts to set/verify my wing sight/gauges and to get accurate quantity. Let set for 3 more days, rechecked all access ports - no leaks. Test flew, perfect. AI signed it off with a smile and a pat on the back. Finished it July 4th weekend just in time for a holiday flight.  No leaks to date, all's well and looking forward to doing the right side to fix that one pesky seep.  As a side note, I saved a sample of each mix to be kept with the logs. Not required but great to have.                                               
Thank you Isaac and others for your help and advice along the way. It's so great to have never actually met someone but to know that we're all here to help each other!
As a disclaimer I wouldn't recommend the average guy using the paint stripper unless you're Very familiar with metallurgy and sheet metal working. It is only to be used in short duration and REQUIRES proper flushing.  It really isn't a necessity to do this job but I had as many as 4 layers of old sealant applied to cut through. Just sped up the removal of the very thick layers.  You can probably see our discussions on this in earlier pages of this thread.
 

That's awesome bud! Glad you got it all done ;)

I should be returning home from the deployment during the first couple of months of next year which is around the corner. I plan to take a brake from maintenance and plan on flying my steed as much as I can the rest of the year because all I have done for most of my ownership has been remodeling, fixing, and upgrading. I've come to the conclusion that there will always be something to do to make your steed better so I need to focus on enjoying the flying next year. The following year I plan to tackle the left wing by stripping it with the machine. I plan to take pictures and document everything the same way I did the right side and compare times.

I believe the best part of Mooney ownership is the amazing group of Mooniacs willing to give each other a hand. Aircraft ownership can be scary for those without deep pockets, if not impossible. Thank you guys for keeping the dream alive ;)

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

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  • 2 years later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 11 months later...
On 3/15/2016 at 5:30 PM, philipneeper said:

I used the poly gone gel..... didn't see good results til the bottom of the bucket. I did my right tank yesterday, applied polygone at about 10 pm.... woke up, went to breakfast and about 10-11am reached in and it came out easy peasy. 

I know this is a very old thread. I am curious did you brush on the polygone or did you use the spray system? I am helping a friend with this process and this thread is like gold. 

Thank you 

John

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  • 4 years later...
On 2/25/2015 at 6:32 AM, isaacpr7 said:

I already though about the clogging issue, which is why I plan to add a screen on the return side and I also plan to use full cone spiral nozzles that have larger openings to prevent clogging. I'm sure there's a lot more than removing sealant to the task; nevertheless, I love to build things and tinker around ;) I am also currently building an Artic Air Cooler for about 75 bucks for a friend. If you guys want pics just let me know.

Can I get a picture of your machine, the picture is no longer on the page

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On 3/7/2015 at 7:36 PM, isaacpr7 said:
On 3/7/2015 at 7:31 PM, mooneyflyfast said:

Have you talked to the people who sell "Polygone" they may be able to give you some good ideas.

 

Good luck with your project!

I had not thought about that to be honest. I might give them a call.

Looks like Isaac sold his Mooney in 2018. If you look up his N number, you can see his full name, and where the plane was registered during his ownership. Maybe you can track him down and ask.

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