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Exhaust Crack


csarles

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The Lycoming exhaust is a bit of a weak point unfortunately - take it to a knowledgeable aviation welder and get the crack area welded and reinforced with gussets. IIRC it is where the #1 header joins to the #3 and #5pipe,  and where #2 joins to the crossflow and to #4 joints are the worst

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One thing to keep in mind is that an aircraft engine is mostly aluminum and expands and contracts a lot. If you look at the engine you will see that lycoming has made allowances for this.

Intake tubes are mounted rigid at one end, and have some sort of slip joint or rubber coupling at the other

Baffling is made in overlapping pieces

Pushrod tubes are spring loaded

Oil return tubes have rubber joint at one end

The exhaust must be able to expand and contract also. If the slip joints don't slip then it gets flexed back and fourth a little each time until it cracks.

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The Bravo exhaust is grim.  I have owed two other turboed airplanes have had little problems with their exhaust systems.  I would suggest you send the whole system to a good welding shop so they can do it right.  When you get it back lube it well before you reinstall it.  Keep an eye on the TIT during high power.  I have found keeping the 

TIT around 1600F will help you get max life out of the system.  I have found that using 30/2200 about 75% will keep the TIT around 1600F at peak.  Good Luck!

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The dent stands out as 'odd' from an engineering point of view...

Whatever made the dent, may have loaded up the stress down the pipe.

Exhaust system continuity is more important for Bravo owners than most Mooneys.

Are you familiar with Bravo exhaust clamps?

Best regards,

-a-

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Just had mine done by Dawley Aviation in Wisconsin. Very reasonable price and quick turnaround. Http://www.dawleyaviation.com

 

I had an exhaust pipe welded by Dawley a few years ago for an 82 Warrior.  They were a short drive from my mechanic in East Troy, WI, and did a fantastic job.  They were very quick as well. 

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Thanks for all the advice and ideas.  Yes, through reading on this site I am aware of the "killer" clamps.  We are going to be replacing those as well, just to be sure.  

 

I too am curious about the dent and the fact that unless it is recent (after the last annual), not one mechanic ever pointed it out to me.  Lesson learned:  be more involved in the annual.  Funny thing, if you look at it and let your eyes cross a little, it almost looks like an older Mooney logo.

 

Curt

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FWIW I have found a good way to assemble exhaust slip joints. The secret is to get the mating surfaces clean enough so they slip freely together without undue force. I do this by sanding them till they are almost shiny. They usually have a thick costing of exhaust residue and it takes aggressive sanding to get it all off. Before assembling coat both mating surfaces with spark plug anti seize. It will act as a grease when you are putting the system together allowing all the pipes to find there happy place and the pipes will slide properly as the engine heats and cools, which most don't. And next time you take it apart it will come right apart. The first time I took the exhaust system apart on this plane I had to wedge one piece in the trailer hitch of my truck and put a 10 foot pipe in the other piece to get the slip joint apart. Now I just need to give it a couple of twists and it comes apart.

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Yikes!  Although one could rationalize that it's cheaper than a life.  

 

Supposing for a moment that I don't want to replace them, what is the best way to find out if they need to be replaced?  According to the log books the plane has never had them replaced.  There also was a prop strike in 1996, before I owned it, and they were not replaced at that time either.

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Everytime I change the oil, 25 hours, I spray Mouse Milk on all the joints and wastegate. BTW, it does not necessarily take an aviation shop to weld that but of course you want someone that really knows what they are doing....not the dude next door that built his own lawnmower trailer :-)

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  • 10 months later...

A crack was noticed on my exhaust pipe 

2015122495105323.thumb.jpg.cd86521915619

Number 7 on the diagram568f18f1415ff_exhaustassembly.thumb.jpg.

 

The crack didn't look so bad on the tailpipe when it was on the engine. But it turns out after it was taken off that it was only being held together by about 30% of the weld.

IMG_7204.thumb.JPG.2d927c8abd19b69846b0d

IMG_7203.thumb.JPG.dd465139b3dce5d68ff79

 

Here's my shiny new tailpipe

IMG_7205.thumb.JPG.44a40f4e832254b603aed

I don't like to think about what would have happened if that had separated in flight.

Edited by LANCECASPER
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I lost a piece of the tailpipe between PDK and MRN a few months after buying my Mooney! We had not noticed any cracks. Upon further examination we found that the guts of the muffler were coming apart. I priced overhaul and decided to go with Powerflow. The Powerflow system calls for disassembly and anti-seize at every annual. System is now almost 4 and looks like new.2012-05-10_15-08-38_372.thumb.jpg.43922c

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That is an amazing photo, Lance. The exhaust stains give a hint of how bad the situation is.

The results for a similar separation of a the turbo exhaust would even be more serious.

Makes me wish it was easier to open the cowl to take a look. The best I can do is tug on the end of the pipe. Having 10% of the weld may make it difficult to notice.

How did you notice it?

Thanks for sharing those.

Best regards,

-a-

 

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