carusoam Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 for my 65C... LED post lights were in line with an ordinary bulb that was shining on the fuel selector valve. An LED would go well there in line with a resistor in an open cool area...? Possibly an idea that can be shared with you guys... Best regards, -a- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanM20C Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 Great job! Why did you put the red lenses back in? Just to make it look stock to prying eyes? I would follow your path, but as it is, my headliner is different than yours and the stock lights interfere with it and don't even aim where I want them to. Along with the ridiculous sun visors in my plane, Mooney gets a big fail on these items. Dave, have you tried aiming the left light at the right side of the panel and the right light to the left? If I don't do it this way I can't get the coverage I want. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaV8or Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 Dave, have you tried aiming the left light at the right side of the panel and the right light to the left? If I don't do it this way I can't get the coverage I want. Dan Mine just don't have really any left/right movement. Only tilt up and down and even then, the back of the stock "torpedo" covers hits the headliner and prevents them from aiming as low as I would like. It occurred to me that if I did your conversion, I could just cut the back of the torpedo covers off and get the motion I would like. I just have to fab, or come up with a nice plug. Do you find that the 15 degree LEDs get enough spread? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanM20C Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 Mine just don't have really any left/right movement. Only tilt up and down and even then, the back of the stock "torpedo" covers hits the headliner and prevents them from aiming as low as I would like. It occurred to me that if I did your conversion, I could just cut the back of the torpedo covers off and get the motion I would like. I just have to fab, or come up with a nice plug. Do you find that the 15 degree LEDs get enough spread? The 15 degree was just about perfect. If they made a 20 or 25 that would be the sweet spot. Superbrightleds just offered the 15 and 100. I tried the 100 too and it was way to wide. The 100 would make a great map light/courtesy light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JaredDavis Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 Mine just don't have really any left/right movement. Only tilt up and down and even then, the back of the stock "torpedo" covers hits the headliner and prevents them from aiming as low as I would like. It occurred to me that if I did your conversion, I could just cut the back of the torpedo covers off and get the motion I would like. I just have to fab, or come up with a nice plug. Do you find that the 15 degree LEDs get enough spread? Can you alter the pivot ring location to avoid the interference? I'll take a picture next time I'm at the hangar. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefanovm Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 Mine have not worked since I bought the aircraft. One of the previous owners installed a strip of leds under the glare shield, about 8 to 10 I think, then a rheostat and a switch to control. It is real crude, but I like the results, so have never had the mechanic look at repairing the headliner ones. From the energy use standpoint I have seen in this thread, this may be a good decision. Under full red brightness, seeing instruments is no problem, seeing outside is a problem. I rarely illuminate past a bare minimum to see my important instruments for the above reason. In the image the rheostat is above the glareshield, above DG. The on/off switch is to the left of the vacuum gauge below the abandoned KLN-94 hole below the strikefinder. http://mooneyspace.com/gallery/image/36297-/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
furledd Posted January 5, 2015 Report Share Posted January 5, 2015 Great thread and great solution DanM20C I ordered all the parts from Superbrightleds.com today (came only to $12 for 2 lights and parts + shipping) Will replace the pots with a couple of maxdim while i am up there. They are $225 each I think at AC spruce but got lucky and got them at almost 1/2 price on ebay new in box this weekend. There is one still left if anyone wants one for way below new cost. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Seaton-MaxDim-Lamp-Intensity-Controller-P-N-9100-001-A-/321565402898?pt=Motors_Aviation_Parts_Gear&hash=item4adecaa712&vxp=mtr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hector Posted January 11, 2015 Report Share Posted January 11, 2015 Did the conversion today per Dan's instructions. I'm pretty happy with the results! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
22 others Posted January 11, 2015 Report Share Posted January 11, 2015 Wow. These look fantastic. The panel coverage looks a little more evenly distributed than the overhead finger burners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ragsf15e Posted January 11, 2015 Report Share Posted January 11, 2015 After buying the light kit from Short Wing Piper and then messing around with them this weekend, I would not do that again. They appear to be the exact same lights you can get on Super Bright LEDs website as mentioned earlier and they are $2.95 vs $50. The plastic covers that come with the light kit are not worth $45 and are hard to fit with our headliner as mentioned earlier. The solution Dan came up with is awesome, but I'm trying one with even less work... Took the torpedos apart and the glass and filter were filthy. Not sure how any light got through. Then I bought some super bright red LEDs (70 Lumens vs 30 from the lights in Dan's solution) from the website and will just replace the originals with the new ones. They will be aimed 90 degrees out like the original design, but we'll see how it goes. They were $4.95 each, so not a great loss if the don't work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marauder Posted January 11, 2015 Report Share Posted January 11, 2015 After buying the light kit from Short Wing Piper and then messing around with them this weekend, I would not do that again. They appear to be the exact same lights you can get on Super Bright LEDs website as mentioned earlier and they are $2.95 vs $50. The plastic covers that come with the light kit are not worth $45 and are hard to fit with our headliner as mentioned earlier. The solution Dan came up with is awesome, but I'm trying one with even less work... Took the torpedos apart and the glass and filter were filthy. Not sure how any light got through. Then I bought some super bright red LEDs (70 Lumens vs 30 from the lights in Dan's solution) from the website and will just replace the originals with the new ones. They will be aimed 90 degrees out like the original design, but we'll see how it goes. They were $4.95 each, so not a great loss if the don't work. What year F do you fly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hector Posted January 12, 2015 Report Share Posted January 12, 2015 After buying the light kit from Short Wing Piper and then messing around with them this weekend, I would not do that again. They appear to be the exact same lights you can get on Super Bright LEDs website as mentioned earlier and they are $2.95 vs $50. The plastic covers that come with the light kit are not worth $45 and are hard to fit with our headliner as mentioned earlier. The solution Dan came up with is awesome, but I'm trying one with even less work... Took the torpedos apart and the glass and filter were filthy. Not sure how any light got through. Then I bought some super bright red LEDs (70 Lumens vs 30 from the lights in Dan's solution) from the website and will just replace the originals with the new ones. They will be aimed 90 degrees out like the original design, but we'll see how it goes. They were $4.95 each, so not a great loss if the don't work. If they are not bright enough, then you could try plain white LED's that are even brighter and see if that works. Should be ok i think since you are retaining the red lens. Let us know if it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StinkBug Posted January 18, 2015 Report Share Posted January 18, 2015 LED's are interesting in that they can shine through colored lenses without actually changing colors. Look at the tail lights on a newer range rover and you'll notice that the lenses are red, but the turn signals light up yellow from the yellow LEDs underneath. I'm gonna have to look into doing this myself. I just flew my new C as it was getting dark and you guys sure aren't kidding about the finger burning part. That's just crazy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carusoam Posted January 18, 2015 Report Share Posted January 18, 2015 SB, Ya need to update your avatar with the pictures and data of the newly delivered! Best regards, -a- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradtlew Posted February 1, 2015 Report Share Posted February 1, 2015 Have a 65 C also looking into the Shortwingpiper solution, but still in the process of trying to get the original rheostat out as I think it is bad since nothing on it's circuit lights up, which if you have one there is the fuel selector light and compass light, so there are incandescent lights in the circuit. Any one have any tips for that rheostat? It's the overhead kind, apparently inside the vent duct???? Does anyone know if there are those inline fuses in the C as with newer models? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Browncbr1 Posted February 8, 2015 Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 I did danm20c's solution. The parts arrived in two days for $11. Super easy little project. After reinstalling, I found that they don't dim. They are either on or off. I'm not sure of that is the wiring in my headliner though. It must have been messed with at some point because just the pilot knob turns in both lights. The copilot side knob doesn't do anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piperpainter Posted February 10, 2015 Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 I have the same problem. On or off. It has to do with the potentiometer (dimemer). It can only dim so low! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbridges Posted February 10, 2015 Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 You guys with no other lights in the circuit will need a rheostat designed for LED bulbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Browncbr1 Posted February 11, 2015 Report Share Posted February 11, 2015 You guys with no other lights in the circuit will need a rheostat designed for LED bulbs. wouldn't that generate a lot of heat, which was the problem all along? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rakesb Posted February 24, 2015 Report Share Posted February 24, 2015 Hey that's great! Does anyone know of a LED replacement for the overhead dome light while we're at it? -Aaron Aaron, I just installed https://www.superbrightleds.com/search/led-products/1156-cw18-t/ in my '66 M20C. Seems to work very well. - Bobby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ragsf15e Posted February 26, 2015 Report Share Posted February 26, 2015 Bobby - After you put those LEDs in, did you get the "torpedo tube" light assembly to fit all back together? I tried a similar LED light, but it was slightly too big and I couldn't get the light fixture to fit back together. I would be interested in doing this if I could find a bulb that will allow reassembly as originally designed. Thanks, Drew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Htwjr Posted February 27, 2015 Report Share Posted February 27, 2015 The rheostat knob on my 67 C gets very hot. Would this mod help the rheostat run cooler? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rakesb Posted March 14, 2015 Report Share Posted March 14, 2015 Sorry, Drew; I only just now saw your message. I only replaced the white incandescent dome light with an LED bulb. I haven't been successful in finding LED replacement bulbs for the two miniature spotlights. LED bulbs that fit the socket are too long to fit into the spotlight casings. I even ordered a kit consisting of two red LED bulbs and two black plastic spotlight casing replacements for the originals. Installation requires rotating the original spotlight sockets 90 degrees, so that they point directly at the instrument panel (instead of at 90 degrees to the panel, as in the original installation). I haven't been able to figure out how to make this rotation successfully; I don't seem to have sufficient slack in the wiring to make the rotation that is required. I'm considering returning the kit ($60) for any refund that I might be able to get. I sure do wish there was a direct LED replacement for the incandescent bulbs in the spot lights. - Bobby, (573) 337-3447 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradtlew Posted March 14, 2015 Report Share Posted March 14, 2015 Rakesb, I just had mine apart last month to fix a broken wire on the rheostat, you can see in the picture there should be plenty of slack, maybe yours is hung up on something, bit of a task to get the liner down, lots of screws, but probably easy to fix once down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertGary1 Posted March 14, 2015 Report Share Posted March 14, 2015 Is there a PMA for this or are you just getting a field approval from the fsdo? -Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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