M20E Pulls Left

[Hedge]

When i fly with my wing leveler, my M20E pulls to the left just enough to be a pain in the rear.  When I push the button to turn it off, and I try not to touch the yoke (other than pushing the button), the plane drops to the right pretty bad.  I bought all four new bellows (spelling) for the wing leveling system, but haven't installed yet  

 

Does anyone think that replacing the vacuum bellows will fix my problem, or do you guys think it could be a problem with the aileron/rudder setup.

 

I would like my plane to fly straight and level for at least a little bit.

 

Mark 

[Hedge]

oh yeah, i have adjusted the little knob to control the leveler and it is maxed out to the right.

[Marauder]

The problem you are describing sounds more like a rigging problem. Will the plane remain level at all? If not check to see if your ailerons are equal in flight. I had a turning tendency in my plane. You will need to understand the root cause of it. Is a gear hanging a little low? Is one of the flaps a little lower than the other? Are the ailerons out of rig. A mechanic with travel boards will be able to determine if the plane is rigged correctly.

[Marauder]

My ailerons look like this on both sides. I would try to separate the wing leveler out of this equation until you know the plane will fly wings level on its own. Once you are certain the plane is rigged correctly, then I would tackle any right or left turning tendency the wing leveler may be having.

[Hank]

Hedges, see your other thread for my comments. Sounds like what my plane did with a torn servo boot.

[KSMooniac]

I too would try to verify/correct the rigging with the PC system disabled first, then address any PC system deficiencies like the bellows replacement.  Don't let any ham-fisted A&P play with rigging unless they know what they're doing WITH MOONEYS, have a service manual, and rigging/travel boards.  Many will just mess up flap positions and bend trailing edges first, and make the problem worse.  Get the plane jacked and leveled, retract the gear and check all the doors first.  Then measure the flaps and ailerons, and the rudder and elevators.  See where everything is first, then start corrective actions as needed and specified in the manual.

[Bob - S50]

Is this something new?  If so, probably not the rigging.  If not, probably is.

 

Don't forget the rudder.  If everything else looks good, check the rudder.  There is no rudder trim but if I remember right there is a small tab on the rudder that your A&P can adjust (read bend) to cause the rudder to display just a little.  From what I understand it is trial and error.  Bend it, fly it.  If still out of trim repeat until happy.

 

Good luck,

 

Bob

[Bob_Belville]

Mark, another factor besides aileron and rudder trim, gear retraction asymmetry, and flap retraction asymmetry: be sure the servo that retracts the step is okay. I flew my '66 for several months looking for trim problems only to discover by accident that the step was not retracting. Not only did the plane straighten up and fly right it gained about 7 knots when I replaced the torn servo!    

 

 

Stop this video @ :34 seconds!

www.youtube.com/watch?v=NuG8dtRBPgQ

 

When the engine is running the step should be up!

[fantom]

When i fly with my wing leveler, my M20E pulls to the left just enough to be a pain in the rear.

 

Probably just another liberal bird   

[Hedge]

Thanks for all the help.  I think I am going to tape my wing leveler down and see if I can fly straight.  I will look at the step for sure.

 

One other note, regarding the gear and the gear door.  I was looking over my plane during pre-flight and I noticed the left gear door wasn't connected to anything to close it.  The pin was just hanging there not connected to anything.  All the nuts and bolts were still there too, and there wasn't any sign that it ripped out.   It just wasn't connected.  I had been flying the plane for a while and never noticed it.  

 

The plane was pulling left before this and when I fixed this and had someone on the ground verify the door were going up and down I did a test flight and it still pulled left.  But as you guys are saying, maybe this drag is being a problem.

 

I will start working on this thing and I will report to you guys.

 

Mark 

[Hedge]

Mark, another factor besides aileron and rudder trim, gear retraction asymmetry, and flap retraction asymmetry: be sure the servo that retracts the step is okay. I flew my '66 for several months looking for trim problems only to discover by accident that the step was not retracting. Not only did the plane straighten up and fly right it gained about 7 knots when I replaced the torn servo!    

 

 

Stop this video @ :34 seconds!

www.youtube.com/watch?v=NuG8dtRBPgQ

 

When the engine is running the step should be up!

Nice video.  I probably need to video mine too.  That is pretty cool.  I haven't seen my plane in flight.  They are beautiful plane.  I can see you fussing with the locking of the gear, turning off the pump, and lifting your flaps.  

 

and yes, I see that ugly step in flight.

[Bob_Belville]

Nice video.  I probably need to video mine too.  That is pretty cool.  I haven't seen my plane in flight.  They are beautiful plane.  I can see you fussing with the locking of the gear, turning off the pump, and lifting your flaps.  

 

and yes, I see that ugly step in flight.

You see all that? Or you can imagine it!

[Hedge]

Imagine, because I am sure that is exactly what it feels like when  I am finishing my takeoff.  

[Bob_Belville]

Imagine, because I am sure that is exactly what it feels like when  I am finishing my takeoff.  

I have over 2500 hours flying Mooneys with Johnson Bars and pump flaps. Raising the gear is automatic but I have to double check that I've raised the flaps and turned off the fuel pump. On an IFR departure it can get pretty busy for a few minutes in our "complex" little birds. I called Boston Approach yesterday to pick up my clearance right after take off from 6B6 which has no reception on the ground. I had filed dir to KLNS. What I got was "943RW, squawk 1234 fly heading 180, climb & maintain to 6000, when able go dir GLYDE V292 SASHA T295 LAAYK V93 LRP dir." I was climbing thru 1000 and about to go IMC. I was alone except for "STEC-George" and the Aspen/GTN GPSS fairies. Busy.

[mike_elliott]

Thanks for all the help. I think I am going to tape my wing leveler down and see if I can fly straight. I will look at the step for sure.

One other note, regarding the gear and the gear door. I was looking over my plane during pre-flight and I noticed the left gear door wasn't connected to anything to close it. The pin was just hanging there not connected to anything. All the nuts and bolts were still there too, and there wasn't any sign that it ripped out. It just wasn't connected. I had been flying the plane for a while and never noticed it.

The plane was pulling left before this and when I fixed this and had someone on the ground verify the door were going up and down I did a test flight and it still pulled left. But as you guys are saying, maybe this drag is being a problem.

I will start working on this thing and I will report to you guys.

Mark

You can take the control valve out of the yoke, just pull it up. That will disengage it. Don't lose it, however.

[Hedge]

You can take the control valve out of the yoke, just pull it up. That will disengage it. Don't lose it, however.

It just pulls right out?  I will try it, but I like the idea about putting it in a film canister.  I just don't think I have one, but I might.  I will probably put it in a plastic bottle.

[KSMooniac]

The film canister idea is to simply put the canister over the yoke and switch to disable the PC without having to hold the button yourself.  You could also wrap a velcro band around it, or just about any other idea you can think of.    If you do simply pull the switch out (creating a leak, like the button does) then place it in a shirt pocket, map pocket, etc. as you do not want to lose it!

[Bob_Belville]

I think that's what ashtrays are for.

[Hank]

I replaced my ashtray with an Ashlight from Spruce. It is possible to pull the button out slightly and create sufficient leak, similar to holding it down with a film canister or broccoli rubber band slid over it. Personally, I rarely bother with the button anymore, but love the wing leveler and Brittain add-ons.

[Hedge]

Here is an update.  There was a large hole in the servo boot.  It would only correct to the left.  Haven't figured out why the plane drops to the right, when the button is engaged.  The button was actually corroded in place and was very difficult to remove.  That has been remedied.  Fixed a hole in my right fuel tank, now have a new starter, new ignition switch, all new servo boots, and a new fuel totalizer.  The only thing left is the possible rigging.  My A/P has never adjusted the rigging on a mooney, although he owns one and knows them inside and out.  I will keep everyone posted.  I can't wait to fly "old blue" again.

[Marauder]

Here is an update. There was a large hole in the servo boot. It would only correct to the left. Haven't figured out why the plane drops to the right, when the button is engaged. The button was actually corroded in place and was very difficult to remove. That has been remedied. Fixed a hole in my right fuel tank, now have a new starter, new ignition switch, all new servo boots, and a new fuel totalizer. The only thing left is the possible rigging. My A/P has never adjusted the rigging on a mooney, although he owns one and knows them inside and out. I will keep everyone posted. I can't wait to fly "old blue" again.

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