Waxing Old Paint?

[Brett]

Hi all,

 

I'm looking for opinions on the best way to nurse my old paint until I can do a re-paint.  I've got a 1980 201 with the original paint, although the accent colors were painted over at some point.. The plane is tied down in central Florida (yes, I'd love to keep it in a hanger but they seem to be unavailable in the area), and the white has become chalky. I'd like to repaint in a year or two, but my priority right now is getting a GPS in the panel, as I'd like to start my instrument training with it in place.

 

I've thought about just giving it a thorough scrubbing with soap and water (using a Scotchbrite pad, perhaps?), and then waxing it. Anyone see a problem with this? Could the Scotchbrite do more harm than good? I assume there's not a major risk of the wax residue resulting in fish-eyes in the new paint, since it will need to be stripped...? Anyone got any tips or tricks for dealing with failing paint?

 

Thanks,

Brett.

[LANCECASPER]

I wouldn't used Scotchrbite since that might be too abrasive.

 

On a 231 that I had years ago with original paint, I used a wax with a cleaner in it (very light abrasive) with soft cloths. This removed the oxidation without being too abrasive. I kept changing the cloth. A lot of color showed up on the cloth but the paint shined great after that. I did that a few times and then used another good wax of the same brand. I'd try that first - at least you won't do any harm.

 

Here's one that I've used:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/meguiarsquick.php?clickkey=6558

[carusoam]

I used Maguire's cleaner wax combination on my 65 C with very nice results...

It didn't replace any missing paint...

It didn't modernize the 70’s choice of colors (brown, orange and beige) very forward looking in '65!

It didn't make the C go much faster...

Try it, the results are real. Be prepared to do the whole plane. A shiny spot amongst the oxidation will look a bit odd....

Best regards,

-a-

[bonal]

Get a random orbital buffer go real light no pressure just the weight of the machine with a quality polish and wax save your arms and does a better job of evenly working the surface. Should shine up real nice. Take some before and after pics.

[Brett]

So that's two votes for Meguire's... I've never used the two-in-one wax/cleaners, but I've had good luck with their products on cars, so I'll give it a try on the Mooney.

 

On sober reflection I agree the Scotchbrite is overkill...

 

While we're on the subject of paint; any opinions on the pros and cons of single-stage versus base/clear? I've painted a few cars (amateur-level only) and become fond of PPG base/clear, but the local paint-shop guy advocates single-stage. I have a pet peeve of sorts about not wanting a ridge between colors, and am concerned about achieving that with single stage.

 

Thoughts?

[Brett]

I have both orbital and two-speed rotary automotive buffers. The two-speed works wonders on a good coat of urethane; can really bring out the shine in paint and remove orange peel. But I'm terrified of using it on my Mooney!. As Bonal suggested, I'll try the orbital with Meguire's combo wax.

[MB65E]

I rubbed out a chalky old C402 in college with some Turpentine I believe. (Lots of terry cloth) Test a spot on the belly first. I don't want to repaint your airplane for you...

[aviatoreb]

Don't use any power tools!!!

 

My airplane was like that when I first took ownership.  It took a full weekend and 5 complete hand wax jobs to bring it from dull to shiny.  There are restoring waxes - look in a car restoring catalogue.  They are a bit gritty and they get rid of oxidation on the surface.  Use soft cloths, restoring waxes of progressively finer grade until you are finally applying finishing waxes.

 

Still it is not like a new paint job but its not bad at all.

 

For a quick touch up following the restoring, I mean a 5 min wax job, you would be surprised what a nice job that lemon pledge will do.

[phecksel]

No scotchbrite, that will actually make it worse

 

Read Junkman's posts and watch his videos, the guy works magic

 

http://www.the370z.com/detailing-washing-waxing-cosmetic-maintenance-repair/19278-junkmans-how-completely-repair-your-paint-damage-videos.html

[KSMooniac]

Spend some time here:  http://www.autogeek.net/ and you'll learn a ton!

 

To rejuvenate old paint, you'll need some sort of rubbing or polishing compound and a machine buffer of some sort...dual action, random orbital, etc.  You really, really don't want to do it by hand... applying wax to a polished surface by hand is tolerable, but polishing such a large surface is not.  If you don't want to buy more equipment or learn what to do, it might be a job to hire out to an experienced aircraft detailer.  It isn't much different from cars, but you need to be careful around rivets and of course not let the metal get too hot.  

 

Clear coat is required on metallic paints (for aircraft, just like cars) but keep in mind clearing an entire paint job will add noticeably more weight.  If/when you repaint, you might keep that in mind and design a scheme that could minimize any extra clear but still "bury" any stripes or color transitions to get the effect you want.

[philiplane]

The best products for restoring the paint are not inexpensive, but they are well worth the money since you'll save a lot of time. 

 

You'll want to use the 3 step system from 3M. They have compounds numbered 1, 2, 3. 1 is a machine rubbing compound that literally works miracles. It brings back the worst chalked finishes easily. 2 is the polishing compound that restores the freshly cleaned surface to a high gloss surface. 3 is the swirl mark  remover that makes the finish like glass. You can also skip step 2 in most cases. 

 

These polishes use different wool wheels for best results. You don't need an expensive buffer, the $50 Craftsman 6 inch buffer can take the backing pads and wheels needed. You can also use this system by hand, if you have to. But the #1 compound really works miracles using a lambswool polishing wheel. Clean the wheel often with a spur, a blow gun, or even a screwdriver to throw off the old paint residue. 

 

You'll find this at auto body supply shops. You may also see it a Pep Boys in some locations, but in pint bottles. Expect to pay $45-55 for the quart sizes. I've been using this system for years in high end auto finishing, and also in refinishing 10 year old planes where we install new vinyl graphics. (1996 and up Cessna, and 1998 and up Cirrus normally use plain white paint, overlaid with vinyl graphics.)

 

This system is specially engineered to restore enamel finishes. Once you've restored the gloss, a hand glaze compound or any good quality wax will keep it protected.

[MooneyPTG]

I have also used the 3M - 3 step product. I first used it on my motor home after we botched the clear coat. Wet sanded with 1200 and the 3 m product worked great. Used it on my mooney to remove overspray from painting. Also had good success on the windows as well. Wet sanded a single stage vintage vw beetle till dull and the 3 m made it look like a show car. As you can see I am a fan.

[Brett]

Wow! Lots of possibilities, thanks.... I actually have used the 3M stuff on cars before, but was concerned about using a rotary buffer around all those rivets. I'm going to have to mull this over a bit, and perhaps try the least aggressive stuff first. If they don't produce good results with reasonable time & effort, I can always get more aggressive. Like I said, I HOPE to be able to repaint in a year or two anyway, so I really just want to eliminate the chalkiness and keep the metal protected until then. Not expecting miracles.

 

I'll probably tackle this sometime in the next couple of weeks, and I'll report back with results. And before & after pics, assuming I don't forget to take them like I usually do...

[jetdriven]

A lambswool wheel gives great results but unless you are experienced using them, I'd stay away from them. A foam pad and buffing compound followed with some Finesse will get great results with no danger of burning through the paint. Also, stay off the rivets.

[philiplane]

Just place 3/4" masking tape over the lines of rivets until you get good with the buffer.

[Hector]

Porter cable 7424XP With 6 inch pads will work wonders with the right Meguiars products. You will NOT get the same results if you do this by hand.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[flyingvee201]

Porter cable 7424XP With 6 inch pads will work wonders with the right Meguiars products. You will NOT get the same results if you do this by hand.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Yep!

This is what I did too.

Get the right pads for each application. Hard, medium and soft, then a soft pad for applying a sealer wax and/or a high quality carnuba wax.

My red paint was chaulky and dull...almost a pink in color instead of red.

I can see my face in the paint now, but its not factory new paint looking...

It took me 4 days 10 hours each day for the whole process.

I did the entire plane, wings top bottom belly, tail...everything and it just wasnt one pass...you have to go back and repeat!

I heard a LOT of WOWs after I was done!

[Releew]

3M Super Duty Rubbing Compound followed by a good coat of wax.

[Rustler]

If you want to take the time, try using what the automobile detailers use, the clay block. Maguires sells a kit for $19 +/-, and, while it takes time, it works wonders without taking off the paint. I've done my 321 with it, and I really liked the results.

[aviatoreb]

Here is a trick - once you have the wax restored with rubbing cutting waxes - then waxed fine with a finishing wax - for a wet look try a coat of lemon pledge.  No kidding - you will be shocked how it will shine.  The shine is not so long lasting - just a couple of weeks - but it takes all of 5 minutes to apply so no biggy.  Spray on and wipe off.  Done.  A good shining way to remove dust or pollen.

[marks]

I'd install a portable GPS and paint as soon as you can.