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I am looking to borrow a EU based set of travel boards that would work for a 1980 M20K, to buy a set (location not critical), or a drawing / CAD file to have them fabricated locally. Absent that option, can someone please describe the process using a protractor? I have not been able to find a description on how to do it without the boards. The Service and Maintenance Manual I have tells me to use the travel boards (27-30-00). I am looking at the elevator, since it seems the easiest, but would want to do all of them eventually. I've seen a few people mention it is doable but tedious, so I want to give it a shot. I don't think I have a need to adjust anything, just want to go through the motions as a learning exercise. I know the angles are in the TCDS, but am not sure how to apply those values / what to measure them against. Many thanks in advance!

Doing our first annual on new to us 63 M20C. All for cylinders compression 79, so I should be happy about that. Starting the gear rigging process over the weekend. If anyone knows of more than just service manual information, videos or advice on the gear rigging process it would be greatly appreciated. I’m assuming some chafing on the tail fairing is inevitable? The A&P/IA and I are practicing “Social Distancing”, making sure the Mooney is not within 15’ of Cessna or Piper.

One set of gear rigging tools for sale $230, I ship.

So I've been flying my plane for a couple of months now and am starting to get used to it. But as I am getting more familiar with it I'm starting to notice a few things that I didn't before I bought it. When starting, typically when I engage the starter it doesn't kick the bendix out on the first try but it always always does the second time. I am planning on getting some silicone spray lubricant and squirting it in and am hoping that will work for a while. Second is that I have an ADF but it doesn't work; I was thinking of just taking the antenna off. I can easily just un-hook the wire from both the top of the cabin and the top of the vertical stabilizer. As long as the ADF is marked INOP is there any problem with this that anyone can think of? I'm considering having the unit removed at my next annual anyway just to get rid of the weight and save complexity (more powered stuff in the cabin is more chance for a short). But I figure if I pull the antenna with its rubber bungee hanging out in the wind I can only be helping my airspeed. Third is that on the Arrow I used to fly I could see changes in fuel pressure on the fuel pressure gauge when I adjusted the mixture. The gauge was marked in PSI and in GPH. On my Mooney changing the mixture doesn't seem to change the measured pressure at all. Without the boost pump the pressure is always at the VERY low end of the green arc, but with it (a new Whelen replacement) it's about 1/3 of the way up, no matter what I have the mixture set to. Is this actually normal? I set mixture by the EGT so I don't need it, but this is not what I was expecting. The last is that the aircraft always wants to bank left. It's barely noticeable when in normal cruise flight, but it becomes pronounced when the flaps are extended. With full flaps it will bank at perhaps 5-10 degrees per second if I don't hold it level even though the ball is centered. Am I looking at an expensive adjustment to get this fixed or should this be fairly inexpensive? Inexpensive in Mooney terms, of course. One 'bonus' topic is that I've got a David Clark H10-13X that uses an external battery box but can be cabled directly if the appropriate plug is installed. This would be in addition to the regular audio jacks. Has anyone had this done? It looks REALLY simple if I can find the right cable and I'd love to get rid of the battery box and it's tangle of extra cables. I can't seem to find the right cable from Aircraft Spruce or on the (mostly useless) David Clark web page. Thanks for all your help!

Hi All, I have a problem, I think, with my right wheel/gear hanging down a bit while in flight. Now, I have shown this to my maintenance organisation who said that this is normal and that it doesn't look nearly as bad from the front (see Before picture, without snow). The plane was in for some maintenance shortly after this picture was taken and they worked on the rigging and said that nothing more can be done (see After picture, with snow)! Unfortunately I could not see what it was like when it was on the ground and on the stand to see what it looked like from the front. Surely though this is not as good as it gets? What effect if any will this have on performance? Any advice on how to get this sorted out, bearing in mind that I am in South Africa. Thanks Tony

Anyone have a set for sale or know where i can purchase?

Hi guys, I noticed a few flights ago that I had a left wing heavy situation. I found several threads where the rigging procedure is well explained so today I went to the airport and elected to verify if the rudder had the 1 degree deviation to the right when the nose wheel is up and the rudder pedals clamped. So I clamped, I raised the nose wheel by lowering the tail tie down hook and took a look. Results: The nose wheel was straight OK. The rudder was almost straith with the vertical fin but was about 1 or 2 degrees to the right in reference to the tail cone. The issue I have was is: The tail cone is not aligned straight with the vertical fin. I have a 2 - 3 degrees bend or something on the pilot side. (This would explain the left heavy wing). I went to look at another Mooney on the field and it seemed to have a similar misalignment but about only half of what I have. My question is: Is the tail cone supposed to be exactly aligned with the vertical fin? The airplane had SB M20-313A done in the spring during annual and is it possible the mechanic who did this messed this up? This seem to be about when I started to notice the heavy wing situtation. Upon doing this SB, wouldn't we want to check if this affects the rigging? Yves C-FQKM