Search the Community

Hey everyone, I'm on the hunt for a decent M20C from the year 69 and below. Looking for an airplane that is a regular flyer and not an airplane that has flat tires and hasn't seen 2000 feet in 10 years. Looking for a plane with maybe some newer avionics, not glass cockpit but maybe an autopilot system, and a Garmin 430 or newer. Finally, looking for a plane with a newer paint job, but if not thats fine! Im located in BC Canada but will be willing to fly to get a decent airplane. Thanks!

looking at this aircraft now. asking $59,900.00. what you guys think?

1969 N9371V M20 C Ranger asking for $69,500 from MD advertised on Trade a plane. http://www.trade-a-plane.com/search?category_level1=Single+Engine+Piston&make=MOONEY&model=M20C+RANGER&listing_id=2200345&s-type=aircraft

FOR Sale: Hartzell Top Prop and Composite Spinner including logbook and all accompanying documentation. For M20 A-G. TTSN 65.3 (2400 TBO) and in excellent condition. Installed in December 2015 and removed in Sept 2016. This prop was on our new-to-us M20E and was incredibly smooth for a two-bladed prop; there were / are no issues with it whatsoever. The prop's model number is HC C2YR 1BFP/7497 PRICE: $7450, shipping included (Lower 48). These kits can be bought new excluding shipping for about $9400 from Hartzell or $8400 from a dealer. The prop itself can be used on a J model but it appears a different spinner is needed. Please message me via this site or call (360) 281-7022 with questions or to request additional photos.

Great shape, complete logs, no damage, maintenance current, and ready to go! Please email Cynthia for more detail cschanno@jcaviation.net or 651-688-6634

Throwing this out for fun but largely pointless discussion: Kerrville stopped putting dorsal fins on the M20C in my year (1968), and this omission remained through the last year of the model in 1978. As far as I can tell, every single other metal wing M20 ever made has a dorsal fin. So why the heck did they take it off all the later Cs? They started making some other cost cutting changes that year, but i can't imagine not riveting that simple aluminum piece on one model saves very much. Google says dorsal fins add yaw stability. My short body has many wonderful traits, but yaw stability in turbulence is NOT one of them. In turbulence, the tail wags quite a bit and helps rear sear passengers who sit further off the CG axis get all pukey. But I would imagine adding yaw stability also decreases rudder effectiveness? So, has anyone here put a dorsal fin on their '68-'78 C model? Does it improve anything, other than help the plane feel like it fits in better with its siblings? It's a $500 Lasar mod part that I bet is easy to install but hardly seems like a priority.

Beautiful 1965 Mooney M20C. S/N 2825, 180HP, 2510 TTAF, 1007 SMOH, Full IFR, Electric Gear, 3 Blade Hartzell Prop, Nice paint, Leather Interior, Garmin GNS 430, Strobes, EGT, Dual PTT, PS Engineering Intercom, KX165 Nav/Comm, KT76A Transponder, Century IIB Autopilot, Always Hangared, Full Logs, Engine pre-heat. This is a super nice updated and maintained M20C. 9/9. Pro Pilot Owned. July Annual. • $49000 360-269-8270

Howdy fellow Mooney owners. The time has come for me to list my beloved C model, and I would greatly appreciate some assistance in determining a reasonable asking price. Currently altered priorities make it difficult to justify continued ownership. Fortunately, a friend of mine is looking to get into a partnership in a newer Mooney in about 2-3 years and that should fall in line with when I'll be looking to own a plane again. Since the vintage mooney valuation tool is no longer maintained, I thought I'd ask you guys for some help. Edit: I probably should have mentioned originally, that the engine has solid compression on all cylinders, and doesn't use oil (or any more than any other lycoming that I've ever flown.) Specifics are as follows: Times Tach Total Time: 3821 Tach Time SMOH: 1800 Tach Total Flight Time: 2200 Time Since Prop Overhaul: 500 Time Since Prop Reseal / Repaint : 50 Time Since Mags Overhauled : 50 Time Since Tank Reseal: 4 hours (right), 50 hours (left) General No Damage History Continuous Logs Intact and Available (Hard Copy and Digital) Corrosion Free Panel PS Engineering 8000B Audio Panel - With audio recorder / playback and Auxiliary MP3 input Garmin GTN-650 WAAS GPS / Nav / Comm Garmin GI-106A CDI / Glideslope TKM MX11 Digital Secondary Comm NARCO NAV-122 Secondary NAV/ILS/LOC NARCO TSO 150 Mode-C Transponder Strike Finder Digital Tach Digital Davtron Chronometer / OAT / Voltmeter Upgrades LASAR 201 Windshield - Less than 100 hours on new windshield Upgraded 1/4" Windows Whelen LED Landing Light Whelen LED Beacon Whelen High Intensity Belly Strobe Retrofit standard 6-pack instrument panel Alternator conversion STC (factory power was via generator) Aero-Comfort Custom Leather wrapped yokes with dual PTT SkyTec Lightweight / Highspeed Starter Brittain Accutrak II coupled to primary and secondary nav Precise Flight Backup Vacuum System LED Ring lights on instruments (dimmable) LED Interior Map Lights (dimmable) New Prop control cable and modern vernier New Mixture control cable and modern vernier CorrosionX treatment Powerflow Exhaust

I've been on here quite a bit looking for a solution to the high CHT problem with my C. A related problem was leaning. Sometimes I couldn't get below 11 gph and EGT's were all over the place. CHT's were also all over the place with the front cylinders up to 60 degrees cooler than the rear, or specifically #4. I've been told C's just run hot. I used up a tube of RTV plugging every hole, seam, etc in the baffling. It was suggested the the carburetor might be wrong or need overhauling. I even thought I should switch the O360 out for an IO360 to be rid of the carburetor. I've experimented with all types of power settings and mixture settings. The only thing that seemed to help at all, was to reduce prop RPM as early as possible and as low as possible. And I'd never been able to close the cowl flaps without raising the CHT's too high. The solution I recently discovered is throttle position. At WOT and Full Rich mixture, everything is fine. But as the mixture is pulled back, the CHT's would go way too high, and I know the engine's not meant to be run full rich at say, 6000 ft. Solution: Prior to pulling the mixture back, pull the throttle back just until the MP needle moves 1/2", then push the throttle back in just enough to get the 1/2" back. Leave the throttle there and adjust mixture as required the rest of the flight. Now I can leave the Prop RPM high or at least around 2500 throughout the climb. CHT and EGT's are all much closer between cylinders now, and CHT's are lower across the board. I've tested this on four different 1.5 hour flights and two 4+ hour flights with excellent results. It's been said on this board before, that WOT with the O360 carburetor opens an additional port or jet dumping extra fuel. It seemed counter intuitive to me to reduce that extra fuel as a means of reducing CHT. And I'd tried pulling the throttle back just a bit, but it obviously wasn't enough. I have to pull it back enough to reduce MP and then put it back just enough to get the MP back. So now I'm speculating that the extra fuel works fine at full rich mixture, but when leaning, it's somehow messing with the distribution of fuel, and putting some cylinders too rich and others too lean. This picture is at 12,500 nicely LOP and running smooth as butter. I neglected to get a picture of the CHT/EGT screen but will do that on the next flight.

First I would like to introduce myself as a new member here. I recently got my PPL ticket (about 75 hours at this point) and am beginning to think about purchasing a plane. Ive done my research and have a fair Idea of what Im looking for at this point. For my mission the older Mooney's mainly M20C and M20E seem to fit the bill pretty well from a speed, efficiency and load stand point. I realize that they are basically 2 adults and bags planes (Im about 190 and my girlfriend does not understand what "pack light" means) which is what im looking for at this point. 99% of my time so far has been in a piper (warrior/archer) and those are also contenders in my search but there is something that draws me to the Mooney's. The plan: I am about to start my instrument rating (will get complex sign off in the process, most likely in an arrow). I know it takes time to find the right plane and Im in no rush, just gathering info for the time being. Questions: - Im based out of Philly (KPNE usually) where are the Mooney shops/mechanics in the area? What are the rates? Anyone specific I should be looking into around the area? - I wont ask about yearly cost as I know that varies from plane to plane, the M20C's seem to be going in the 40K range for a nicely equipped one and the E's in the 50K-ish range for a nice one (on trade-a-plane, barnstormers etc). Is this what they are actually trading hands for? More? Less? - If there are any M20C/M20E owners in the Philly area I would love to chat about your plane and if you are looking for a weekend copilot I would be happy to come along, the truth is I have never been in a Mooney. - Is there anywhere in the Philly area to rent an M20C/E as I would like to get checked out and get some time in one.

Love the plane, but I'm moving up to a cabin class twin Cessna, and can't justify keeping a second bird. She's impeccably maintained. In the past few years, she's been through two $10k annuals at MSCs to get everything in mint condition. The last annual was in December, and even with a few minor squawks, only cost $3k thanks to the excellent condition the MSC annuals put her in. I am pretty firm on the price, though. This is one of the cleanest C models you'll find around. AFTT: 3,794 TSTOH: 400 hours TSMOH: 1,700 hours Annual completed in December 2015 (compressions in the 70s) All ADs complied with, and detailed compliance log maintained Prop almost brand new; not even any paint peeling yet Bran new alternator, engine mounts, vacuum pump; tach refurbished last year MSC did a complete overhaul of the landing gear a few years ago Panel and interior redone a few years ago Garmin 430 (not WAAS) STEC 30 with altitude hold & GPS couple Shadin fuel totalizer (you'll love this if you're used to inaccurate fuel gauges!) EGT & cylinder head temps I'll throw in an Optical Tach and a Garmin GPS MAP 396 Logbooks missing for a few years in the 70s, but complete records before and after Price: $49,900 If interested, email me at toddorts@gmail.com

Are the carpet kits pretty standard between the years? More specifically, wondering if a carpet kit for a 63' M20C will fit into my 68' C without issues?

My first post. I feel privileged as a newbie to join this great community after just buying my first plane, a 1968 M20C (N2971L). The plane got a prebuy inspection at Cole Aviation in Dalton, GA and will come home to Philadelphia (KPNE) after getting some work finished there. The air frame, interior, and paint are in terrific shape, and the 600hr engine seems ok for now. But the panel certainly could be better (pics attached). I'm just finishing my private now (checkride shortly), and this is the plane that I want to do my instrument training in and hopefully be able to keep for many years. I'm looking into a major panel upgrade, and I think my budget and panel space will tolerate the following: Garmin GTN 650, STEC-30 autopilot, JPI 900 engine monitor, Garmin GTX330 w/ES transponder, Garmin GMA 340 audio panel. I also want clean up the haphazard mess of breaker and switch labeling that's there now, maybe add Nulite, and other cosmetic improvements. Can the experienced folks on here give me some guidance on picking a shop and getting the job done? My local options seem to be: 1. Penn Avionics in Brandywine (KOQN)- my closest shop, but just changed owners and reportedly is quite disorganized right now. I contacted them, and they stated that they have temporarily lost their Garmin dealer status and wanted to sell me Bendix avionics instead. 2. Airmods in Robbinsville (N87)- They seem to have a very strong reputation overall as a Mooney Service Center, but I'm not sure how much avionics work they do. They seem interested in the job but they are not an avionics dealer. Can someone school me on how this would work for a certified install? 3. Lancaster Avionics and Henry Weber Aircraft (KLNS)- I have not spoken to them yet, but I think that the panel, engine monitor, and avionics work could be split between the two shops. Does anyone have experience with them? I saw mentioned elsewhere on here that they are reputable but their prices run on the high side. Are there any details that folks feel I should ask about when setting up the job? And anything else that I should get done to the panel specifically? Much obliged!!!

On a flight Saturday, my tach started behaving very erratically. Sunday my A&P checked the cable and the tach and has diagnosed the tach as the problem. This is obviously not the original tach that came with the plane back in 1964. Now that I'm looking for a replacement, how much flexibility do I have with regards to choosing a tach from a salvage yard or buying a new tach? Doing some searching online, I've not found any that have the exact same markings as this one. Is that required? I'm not ready to go to an electric from JPI or EI, but am interested if anyone here has had to replace a tach and what was involved in finding the correct one for this application. 1964 - M20C http://mooneyspace.com/gallery/image/36584-tach/

With any luck (and decent weather) I'm picking up a Mooney M20C in the environs of Atlanta this weekend. I've got a CFI who'll help me fly it back him to the land of the Buckeyes, Columbus Ohio. What I don't have is someone here who can continue my complex training. I need some dual time to make my insurer happy, and I'd rather not do it all down there. Anyone know a CFI in my area who knows Mooneys? I sure don't.

I got a '68 C model with bladders 5 months ago and find that I still need to learn some really basic stuff about this plane. Per POH preflight, I been dutifully pulling the ring by the fuel selector for each tank. But until yesterday, I never made someone else do it so I could see if and where the gascolator drains. Turns out I don't see anything draining. Further I have no clue where to find the the drain nozzle. Per records, the MSC mechanic who did my pre-buy+annual did clean the fuel screen and change a gasket in the gascolator. I'm not sure that it's related, but I had an incident 3 months ago where the fuel pressure gauge would go down to near 0 psi when I turned off the boost pump during climb above 1000agl. It happened 3x in a row, on either tank, making me freak out and turn the boost pump back on. Since then it's never happened again. I wonder if a piece of partially obstructive debris ultimately broke up and plugged the drain. So my questions are: 1. Where is the drain in the '68C? I've learned from prior posts that earlier C models had it in the nose gear well, but I'm not sure this is true of the '68. When I look in the wheel well, I can't identify it, but then I don't have a clue what I'm looking for either. 2. Assuming the drain is clogged, is there anything I can do to deal with this before taking it to the shop? 3. If it must go the shop, are the guys on my field able to handle this easily? They know Pipers and Grummans but seem minimally familiar with the old Mooneys.

My still fairly new to me '68C started life with an impressive useful load of 1050 lbs but is now old and obese, with only 888 lb officially (though the accounting is sketchy in parts). Previous additions that are here to stay are bladders, 201 wing tips, and cowl closure. I figure there's a good amount of added weight behind the panel , and it's about to get the panel redone this summer (STEC-30, G650, Aspen PFD among other stuff). I'd like to hear ideas and experience on how to maximize the useful load gains before it gets reweighed at the end of this. My current thoughts are: 1. removing all Brittain wing leveler components (nonfunctional) will help 2. obviously removing the rest of the old engine gauges and panel components, along with any orphaned wiring 3. headrests from the front/rear seats (these aren't all that comfortable anyway) 4. Maybe get rid of the overhead speaker and handheld mic input? Will I ever actually use these for anything?? 5. I should try to drop 10lbs myself- seems only fair given what I'm asking of my plane. Anything else likely to be hiding in this plane that should be torn out?

As a new 110 hr pilot who transitioned to the C model 20 hours ago, I feel now decently comfortable getting from point A to point B and planning my descents in a way that is specific to this plane (I plan 4mi/1000 ft, 135-160mph, 500 ft/min, or a bit steeper if ending up high toward the end). 1-3 miles before entering the pattern, I do have to pull throttle way back and level off to get speed to 120 so I can drop the gear. This feels like the most inelegant part of my descent, and I'm not sure how compatible it would be with an instrument approach, since I have no exposure to the latter. My overall question is what habits should I focus on breaking, developing, or retaining right now that might ease my eventual instrument training? I probably won't get to start until next year sometime, but I hope to do a decent amount of flying between now and then and hope to have the right airplane handling skills (Mooney specific ones or in general) when the time comes. I know holding accurate altitude and heading is key, but what else? Should I practice using VORs whenever I can?

I have the ASI with knots on the inner ring and miles on the outer ring. There is also the adjustable scale for TAS. My question is, are the numbers on the white tape for TAS in knots or miles? Thanks,

When I got my '68 M20C a few months ago, my flap handle worked nicely - 2 pumps for takeoff setting, 2-3 more for full. Exactly what the POH says. The release lever was very stiff, but then a local MSC simply lubed the cable, and it worked perfectly too. Now suddenly (on first solo after finishing 10 hrs transition training, of course), it takes 3-4 rapid pumps to get any back pressure behind the handle and have flaps start coming down. Then it takes 6-7 pumps to get them down to full. They seem to stay down ok and will still come up at appropriate speed subsequently. I've read various stuff on other posts regarding leaks, bleeding the system, including trying to get air out by various strategies. My questions are (1) Did I do anything to cause this problem? (2) What, if anything, I should try to do myself here before flying back to MSC. Dealing repeatedly with early squawks is getting old, and I really just want to fly it for a while to get my skills honed.

Hello, I'm in the market for a mooney (most likely m20c) and want to basically find one with no damage history and a relatively new engine, but that's it. My plan is to then get it painted, have the interior redone, and have new avionics installed. Has anyone had experience with this? And what mods are important/beneficial for a model c? I know there is a cowl conversion to help with cooling and speed, but are there any other ones?

I'm doing transition training in my new to me '68 C and have a gear issue. A reputable MSC mechanic in GA who is also an experienced pilot and CFI did the pre-buy on it. He subsequently did work on the gear that included replacing all biscuits, which were '68 original, as well as changing a corroded nose gear spindle and bearings. Afterwards he operated the gear on jacks and also flew it himself - apparently the gear worked fine. I've flown it twice now while getting instruction from a senior Mooney instructor and former C model owner. I have no issue pulling the gear up- surprisingly easy. But I try to put the gear down at 100-120mph and have a miserable time. Most of the movement toward the locking block is easy and smooth, but securing it is a nightmare. This requires hard forward pressure with both hands for the last few millimeters to allow the sleeve to slide up and engage the pin. I spoke to the MSC mechanic and read up on technique again to make sure I'm doing things right, then went back and tried again. Still no luck. It feels as if something is preventing the last few millimeters of forward travel. I do notice that when locked up the bar contacts the plastic center console containing the flap and trim position indicators. But the console doesn't seem loose or incorrectly positioned so I'm not sure this is the problem. I spoke to the mechanics on my field who seemed to have little experience with the Johnson bar system and couldn't get it into look for at least a week anyway. I'm wondering if there's any guidance I can give them, or if i should just get it ferried to the nearest MSC in Robbinsville. Or lastly, is the problem just my own inexperience? This is what I thought after my initial flight, but now I'm doubtful.