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Marauder

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Everything posted by Marauder

  1. Roberto did mine in 2017. Good guy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  2. Late model Fs have many of the ADs worked out and were the final refinement of a model that started in the 1960s. I’ve enjoyed the 31 years I’ve owned by 75. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  3. That’s a shame you are having difficulties selling the ESI-500. I love mine and find it is a great unit with better resolution than many standby units. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  4. You didn’t mention checking the resistance of the plugs. I would also do that as well. Some of the plugs had issues with too much resistance causing issues. The plug wires, as mentioned can be purchased as a set or individually. You will need to make sure the set you purchase matches the plug type. I have fine wire plugs and the end cap is larger. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  5. It all went away when these things started showing up in panels. The issue for us single alternator, single battery guys is the loss of the alternator means you have a small finite amount of time before the Nav/Com driving the battery powered backup goes offline. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  6. This is probably why you can’t reach Jim. I have used Jim’s instructions to update the firmware on my unit. L-3 had a site where you could get access to the current firmware. Not sure that still exists since they are now having a third party provide technical support. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  7. They’re probably too greasy to type. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  8. Can’t wait to see the replies. I was really surprised over the summer at a fly in to see a Mooney that was painted by a well known shop in Florida. The paint job was a mess. Had runs, missed areas and a lot of overspray. When I spoke to the Mooney owner, he said the shop had grown because of his reputation and he is no longer doing the majority of the painting. I would like to see opinions on people with really recent experience. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  9. $1 million dollars (submitted by an F owner) From my experience, there is no true VRef for any plane these days. There are starting points and you add and subtract from there. In addition to the general condition of the plane itself, the influx of modern avionics will influence the values all over the place. Jimmy Garrison provided a valuation guide to many of us and an F can be as low as the $60k range and over $120k - based on condition and modifications. The things you should be looking at is time time on the engine, how well it has been maintained and what modifications have made to it. Here is a picture of a 76 F model’s panel. How much more would you pay for a 1960s vintage F with this panel? Or would you pay more if the engine on the 76 was new and the 60s was run out? See if Jimmy will share his valuation guide with you. It might help get to the answer you are looking for. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  10. Top one is a Klixon. Bottom one is an ETA. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  11. Was this one of your better takeoffs Gus? [emoji1787] This Mooney has the nose strut on it. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  12. You’re in that 5% range I wrote about earlier. 95% of the time after the engine has some heat, the “leave everything where it was” technique works. If the engine is slightly warm, you may need to try something closer to a cold start to get it to start. I would try one of these techniques: - push the mixture in and then pull it immediately back to idle cutoff, then start cranking - leave the mixture at idle cutoff, turn the boost pump on for a couple of seconds and then try cranking - use your normal cold start technique As Maxwell mentions, “after you start your own airplane all the time, you’ll see what it takes”. He’s right. It seems some of the F models I have flown or been in all have some variation of what works for them. Once you figure it out, burn it into your memory. And if your tried and true technique doesn’t work, you probably have something going wrong on your plane. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  13. On a really hot start (like right after fueling on a 90 degree day), it could take 8 to 10 prop rotations. If you anticipate a quick restart, open the oil access panel and let some of the heat out. I have only needed to resort to a flooded start a couple of times in 31 years of owning my F. Maxwell’s hot start technique works, just need to have patience sometimes. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  14. You ever figure out why it wouldn’t start? I’ve learned in my F that cold starts come in two flavors. A cold start and a cold cold start. If I am starting cold with outside air temps above 40°F, I run the boost pump until I develop full pressure for 3 seconds. I then pull the mixture to idle cutoff and crank. When it is cold cold (below freezing), even after preheating, I do the same with the boost pump but leave the mixture full in. There are a number of hot start recommendations but I found shutting down with the idle RPM at 1000 and on subsequent startup, cranking with everything exactly as I left it at shutdown works about 95% of the time. The problem most people have with hot starts is they don’t let enough prop swings go through.
  15. I don’t recall who from Mooney told me this at one of the MAPA Homecoming events back in the 1990s, but their explanation was it was an attempt to minimize porpoising effect by landing on the nose wheel. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  16. In my plane, when the gear squat switch was the culprit, the gear will not come up and the gear unsafe light would stay on. It sounds like the gap on yours is within tolerances. My gear unsafe issue was due to really cold flights (like below 10°F). The donuts wouldn’t expand enough to activate the squat switch and the gear stayed down. Mooney recognized this was an issue with the squat switch design and offered a retrofit called the “Gear Bypass” kit. I installed it in my plane.
  17. Some shops won’t clean fine wire plugs. Probably because their spark plug cleaners are set up with an aggressive media safe for massives. I spoke to Tempest and they said that only walnut shell media should be used to clean them. And I’m willing to bet a lot of shops reuse copper gaskets as well. As for the fouling, I lean aggressively as well and although I never had a fouled fine wire, I have seen a fair amount of lead in one of them when I pulled it. I always thought it might be due to that particular cylinder was a little more richer than the others. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  18. Nice solution. Now you need to solve the next challenge. How do you get by the extra large individual standing on the wing walk waiting to sit in the co-pilot seat without stepping on the wing yourself after you stowed and closed the baggage door? [emoji13] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  19. Don’t know where you guys get your information from. But I know for a fact that these drones are in reality small crafts piloted by little green people who practiced the choreography for months. Just like the Blue Angels. You might have caught one of their earlier shows in “batteries not included”. [emoji38] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  20. It is a substrate with polyvinyl resins that improves the gripping power of a screwdriver. Doesn’t bond with either the screw or driver, just adds a bit of traction. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  21. You should be fine with the new Tempest fine wires. Yeti, me and a few others were caught up in the batch of plugs that had outsourced center electrode welding done. I had one plug that failed. Tempest wasn’t initially very accommodating with me. I think they knew they had a quality issue and were trying to avoid a wide recall. It wasn’t until I pointed out that it was getting visibility on the forums that they changed their tune with me (their original request was for me to send my plugs in to be tested and only replace what they considered to be “bad”). Eventually they provided me a whole set including the two spares I keep. I have about 400 hours on them since they were replaced and they look fine. As for cleaning them, I did speak to one of their technical people and he said it was okay to clean them with walnut shells as media. I found the walnut shells are a bit problematic as they get stuck in the electrode area. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  22. Before you resort to trying to drill them out, if you can find a screwdriver that fits reasonably well (like a #1 Philips), try using this stuff: You might also have success with a pair of these: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  23. Wonder what precious metals are in northern Delaware? Maybe Fort Knox was moved. [emoji1787] In my neck of the woods, it’s precious mushrooms. Who would have thought there was enough money in mushrooms for some of them to own Pilatus turboprops. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  24. Based on his flight profiles, I’d say he is involved in some sort aerial surveying. We had a plane doing similar profiles by me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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