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Zulee

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Everything posted by Zulee

  1. ****UPDATE ON THE CANOPY COVER POST*** The first person to contact me about the cover will likely purchase it. We need to confirm two measurements. If not, I will update the listing. Thank you
  2. My friend lost his medical, sold his 84 M20K and has a like-new Bruces Canopy cover for sale. He is not connected via social media so I offered to post for him. The cover is in like-new condition and sells for $635 on the Bruces website. I've included numerous pictures. He will take $350 plus shipping or you can pick up at VNC airport, which is think is a very fair price. Rick
  3. A and B are the correct answers ...and maybe a little of answer D
  4. If this topic has been addressed in a forum I've searched but unable to find any feedback. I want to replace my 696 with the Aera 760 but to receive XM whether I need a GDL52 antenna. I'm curious if there are any other options that do not require sticking a box on my glare shield? Thanks in advance Rick
  5. I know nothing about Brittain autopilot but a friend has these parts for sale.
  6. The only increase in size that I am aware of with the Max is the field selected...in other words, when you select Baro, Altitude, Min, Heading, etc. that data field increases in size substantially. It resets or goes back to the normal display in a few seconds automatically or you can push the knob or hot key to resume normal display size. And by the way @Oldguy, I used to be based at Pell City, loved that airport.
  7. Totally agree, I run it up 1/2 of indicator above the indicator.
  8. I tried to get the brightness of the two as equal as possible and I agree, the G5 does appear a little washed.
  9. Synthetic is just as vivid as the other displays. I should have taken some pictures of that function as well...my bad. The next time I go up I will bring a friend to take some shots while landing.
  10. Just a PIREP... I thought I would share some pictures of the Aspen PFD MFD Max upgrades. I also have a G5 so a pretty good comparison of color and clarity side by side.
  11. Open the pdf file I attached from Mooney, all of the appropriate sealant numbers are listed. The one you’ve attached is a different number so I’m not sure what that’s for.
  12. Pro Seal was what I used to seal the windshield and it's black. Actually I just removed it and my AP actually did the install. I purchased the tubes and he used a pneumatic gun to apply the bead around the window...pretty interesting process. I've attached the table I received from Mooney that covers all the various sealants you can use throughout the plane, not just the windows. I've also attached some photos of the process and a link below so you can see the sealant tubes. SkyGeek had the best price at the time I purchased. https://www.skygeek.com/flamemaster-cs-3247-aircraft-windshield-sealant.html SEALANT_CROSS.PDF
  13. Congrats and welcome to the club!
  14. I went through the same slow timing on delivery, I actually left them alone until we reached about a month from my order date. I called and had it 4-5 days later.
  15. Contacting Redline did not yield a lot of support...here is the response I received. Apparently they don't feel the drill motor is their responsibility and recommended I take it to a small tool repair center. Really? Hi Rick:We have had this issue come up a few times lately. Milwaukee is completely dismissive about it. They just say,"it is a construction tool, sometimes if you leave it in a certain position, it will leak a little". The only thing I can suggest is to talk it to a small tool repair center near you and see what they say.Sorry for the situation, but that is the manufacturers position.Best regards,Linn Kastan - REDLINE AVIAITON
  16. I purchased a SideWinder in July 2018 and over the past couple of weeks I've notice oil on the drill motor. Has anyone else had this issue and if so what did you do about it? Thanks in advance for your feedback Sidewinder oil.HEIC
  17. I appreciate everyone's input and maybe this more about managing expectations and that's on me. I just find it hard to believe a $10,500 paint job at the caliber posted in this thread has increased 40% for a white airplane with two stripes. Maybe I'm being unreasonable but if you have a great product and the demand allows raising your price I am totally fine with that but I am not fine with raising your price and lowering your product. But that is just me
  18. I realize this string is about 2 years old but I contacted Hawk this week for estimate on my J and the price was $14,500. A substantial jump from the $10,500 82Mike shared on August of 2017. I've not received the written quote yet but was told this was a white base with stripes (two colors) and 8 hours of any repairs or prep included. I assume if you were to do a two color fuselage with accent stripes (more Mooney'esque) the price may head into the high teens. To be honest, when I visualized a white airplane with two stripes all I could see is an early model Cirrus...euuuuuu!! I referenced the $10,500 price on MooneySpace (no names mentioned) and that seemed like a pretty big jump, he said they moved from Tampa to a new 22,000 square foot shop, they do interiors, maintenance, etc. He didn't elaborate any further so I guess that means his new overhead is being passed on in the form of a ~40% increase for a paint job. I really like @82Mike paint job as well as @jetdriven and was ready to pull the trigger with Hawk but now I find myself back to square one. If anyone has any other recommended paint shops I would appreciate the recommendations. Thanks
  19. Oscar, just a shout out for sharing Jerry's name and number. I needed a "part" and called him on a whim and I'll be dang if he didn't have the part and it came off the same year as my J. So, thank you! Rick
  20. It's been a few weeks but here is the follow up on the trim switch. I tracked down a new one (wow, are they expensive) but before we replaced the old one we wanted to do a little more troubleshooting. As we began the process, it was first believed to be an electrical issue...turns out, it was not. As RobertE mentioned above, it turned out to be a mechanical issue and to answer Carusoam's question...the switch is plastic with metal tabs that wrap around each micro switch, which is what actually depresses the little red (plastic) button on the micro switch itself. After removing the switch and using a very bright light we were able to observe the mechanics of how this plastic/metal conglomeration worked. In essence these little micro switches have very little tolerance in terms of how hard they can be depressed. We noticed that 2 of the 3 tabs pushed "just enough" to hear the switch click and you could still see about half of the red button when fully depressed. However, on the 3rd micro switch depressed so far there was little to no red showing and the first indication that maybe this was our problem or at least another area to explore a little deeper. The switch housing itself has two screws that run laterally through the housing and through the three micro switches. The screw holes are perfectly round so initially we thought there was no way to "adjust" the amount of downward pressure on that 3rd micro switch. So we removed the two screws so we could get a closer look at how this puppy goes together and thanks to all the wires soldered in place, the three micro switches slid out in a cluster. Once we removed the switches from the housing we noticed a little metal plate on vertical side of the housing that had elongated holes. SCORE!!!!! While the metal plates seemed to be glued into place, with just a little force they easily broke loose and we were able to position them enough to offset the downward pressure on the micro switch button. Once we made this adjustment we could hear the click and see about half of the little red micro switch button as we saw with the other two. Call it blind luck or absolute curiosity, but once we made adjustments to the plate and reassembled and installed the old switch back in place...it worked like a charm. I'm not sure the situation/solution we found with my switch to be consistent with others posting trim switch issues, but it's worth a look-see and costs nothing versus hundreds of dollars for a new switch that you may not need.
  21. I can't answer the plastic versus metal question...either way, its some of the most expensive metal or plastic I've ever purchased before
  22. It worked fine last week and did not work during pre flight yesterday, with no symptoms leading up to the failure. KFC200
  23. I guess that would help and excuse the video symbol, it's a screen shot of a video I took when the most recent one was installed. Thanks Art
  24. I have a 1981 M20J and I've replaced one or more of the micro switches twice and I've replace the entire switch with new, twice...over the past 8 years. I find it hard to believe this is normal and I'm convinced there is something else going on that causing this ongoing problem. Thoughts? Thanks in advance for your feeback Rick
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