nosky2high

Any chance it will providing heading bug info to the TruTrak while functioning as a DG?

Thanks for the pirep.

So what was the problem/cause? Have you solved this mystery?

How long has it been since your fuel servo was overhauled? Use a mirror and flashlight to check the part number on the front, should be a -11. If it’s a -10 it likely needs overhaul. ”The fuel metering section on the injector consists of the inlet fuel strainer, manual mixture control valve, and an idle valve. The idle valve is connected to the throttle valve by means of a link which incorporates a "star wheel" for idle adjustments. The lever movements made with this adjustment are minuscule and not easily visible due to the slightly different thread pitch on both sides of the wheel. The idle speed is adjusted by the threaded screw on the stop at the throttle lever. The mixture control valve is a simple on-off assembly that is manually adjusted by its lever.” if there is any excessive wear around the star wheel could be why your idle problems go away at higher rpm. http://www.dgsupply.com/node/2044

First year of ownership is almost here. Installing the oil cooler relocation kit this week as we continue to make improvements to our vintage M20F. Pics to follow. LIG

It wasn't a total failure, the engine would run at high rpms, but not smoothly. There was some trace amounts of fuel leaking from the old pump. I've gone ahead and inspected the entire fuel injection system since the flow divider and servo yellow tags are dated 2005. we fly way too much night/IMC cross countries to have any doubts in our engine and components.

Clean and polish your firewall. Also if you’ve got the original relays, cables, etc. it’s a good time to replace those.

Don’t forget the pilot valve. I had to replace one on my previous Mooney.

Can I get the part number the “cooling thing”? is this it? https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/fuelpumps.php

Great educational video on our fuel pumps.

Taxied out this past weekend and the engine quit during run up. After a quick experiment, the engine would only idle with the electric boost pump on. A new replacement lycoming fuel pump and gasket was ordered from spruce and is arriving today. Requesting advice and any helpful procedures to replace the fuel pump on my 67 M20F. Are there any other proactive maintenance tasks or recommended improvements while I’ve got things apart? Thanks in advance. Anthony

Plus one for Russ at D&G. I’ve used his shop for years on my last three airplanes various fuel system components. High quality work and a quick turn around.

This is very good advice and the exact logic that led me to buy an M20F vs the M20J/M20K options. I’d plus up the miscellaneous budget to $15k and luckily my engine overhaul money hasn’t been touched yet after 230 hours of flying since purchase. Knock on wood!

Bought 68’ M20C in a May 2011, flew just over 1500 hours and would still own if not for a gear up landing (not pilot error, right main gear door caught on gear leg rivet). Bought 67’ M20F in Sep 2018 and have over 220 hours on it. We are constantly amazed at what a difference in comfort and performance the mid body and 20 additional HP provides. Another plus is the low insurance costs. I also like the manual gear, flaps, and light weight of the mid 60s Mooneys. My wife loves the strength of the airframe. We test flew several vintage Bonanzas and Debonairs, a couple of Bellanca Vikings, as well as flew nearly 100 hours in Cherokee 235s. Bottom line; the Mooney is the best choice for us.

You chose wisely.

An additional consideration is to keep the left Mag/sos in case of ever having to hand prop/start the engine. That’s an emergency procedure in my opinion but nice to have just in case. YMMV

Why not remove the connection on the key switch so it starts using both mags? Does that give you the best of both worlds with the SOS left mag and right side electronic ignition? Just a thought, not an A&P.

Yes, or you can replace it with an electric attitude indicator with inclinometer to have a second AI in case of vacuum failure.

Jeev, get mine sent ASAP once approved. I’ve got my A&P(IA) lined up to remove the entire Brittain system and install an electric AI with inclinometer in place of the Brittain TC. I’m keeping the vacuum pump and AI/DG for now. Then i’ll fly over to our local avionics shop for the TruTrak install. My M20F should be a good indicator for the group as to what the install times should be for the Brittain equipped vintage Mooneys. Have fun at Oshkosh, hopefully I’ll get there next year. Anthony

Like a gear leg rivet/plug getting caught on the bottom of the gear door.

There’s a big difference between training and the actual environment. For example, you can file direct via radar vectors. There are very few serious IFR cross country SEL mentors out there. My personally recommended reading list to potentially save your life; Weather Flying by Buck, Positive Flying by Taylor & Guinther, The Killing Zone by Craig, Flight Discipline by Kern, all the FAA pubs, numerous advanced and weather flying videos on Sporty’s, Everything Explained for the Professional Pilot by Lengel, and Fate is the Hunter by Gann. As far as budget IFR direct goes, I think I’ve got the record. My previous M20C (1500+ hours) had the legendary KNS80 RNAV ($800 with fresh HUB btry) for cheap IFR direct capability and our current M20F (200+ hours) has the Garmin 300XL gps/com IFR enroute and approach approved. The Garmin 300XL is a bulletproof, highly reliable unit available from Bennet Avionics for around $2k. I’ll be able to continue my budget IFR direct flying for many years to come. Never forget the single most important consideration is aircraft control, everything else is subordinate to this requirement.

Alex, to save some time, unless you want to track VORs for experience, ask for direct via radar vectors. Put in the remarks column of the flight plan, “VFR GPS equipped”. They will likely clear you direct, traffic permitting. Congrats on the IR, that’s the real license to learn.

Keep an eye on TruTrak. I already preordered mine.

20 degree as per data plate. It had been timed at 25 previously.

Yes. Mags are timed properly as per the engine data plate.