rotorman

The last statement here is not exactly correct. The local shop did the borescope and generated a log book entry that all cylinders show corrosion. Even if a dishonest person didn't put the entry in his logbook, a pre-buy inspection, if performed by the same shop would probably bring it to light. So if I were planning to sell this airplane, who would be willing to buy it with corroded cylinders? How much would it knock of the value of the airplane if a buyer could be found willing to buy it in this condition?

They are not chrome cylinders. Thanks everyone for your inputs. I'm awaiting Western Sky's opinion after they review the photo's and will report back.

How about some speculation about why rust accumulates on cylinders that are only 3 years old and have been broken in properly and run nearly weekly for a total of 120 hours. and don't live in a particularly wet part of the US. Or is it just that few engines that fit this profile have been borescoped and so they remain unknown.

So I'm talking to Western Sky Airways about this problem. I've sent them the borescope photos and the oil analysis. I will report their verdict. I don't know enough about this to understand what your point is about angle valve cylinders. Plz elaborate.

The borescope shows corrosion in all 4 cylinders. The IA speculates that the only way he sees that this is possible with only 120 hrs on the rebuild is the cylinder were on a humid shelf prior to installation and were not properly inspected. He says the corrosion is below the are of the cylinder that would effect compression. The rebuild was done just short of 3 years ago and the airplane has never sat for more than 2 weeks. These are shots of 3 out of the 4 cylinders What is my best course of action from here? r

I ran at full power during the break in. The cylinder head temps drop down nicely and the oil consumption came down to a qt at 9 hrs. There is no metal in the filter. I'm using X/C 20-50. I've only been running the lower power settings for the last 10 hrs or so. My normal mission from Bend to Seattle, about 1.5 hrs, went away at the end of March. Since then I fly once a week for an hour locally at 20 map 22 rpm.

Talked to Larry Flattery at Western Skyways. He recommended borescope. Then run it hard prior to next sample in 20 hrs. I have scheduled a borescope for next week. I've been loll gaging around my home field at slow speeds in order to stay current and keep the airplane flying. Normally at around 20 map and 22 rpm. He said that could have an effect.

Sorry for the bad info. Overhauled by Western Skyways,

I received my oil sample results and after 120 hrs on the rebuilt IO360 A3D. This is the 6th report flagging Chrome staying high at 10 vs normal 2 and nickel at 5 vs normal 1. The report states possible excessive wear on chrome plated piston rings and nickel exhaust valve guides. Neither of these are on an upward trend and oil usage is very low. The filter associated with this oil sample had no metal. Any opinions on on whether this is cause for alarm? Sorry for the repeat post. This post needed a new title.

I had email from them after sending an inquiry. The answer was that the length of time varies with the season. In summer, she said they get more samples with boating season and other RVs. In winter the turnaround time is much faster. I received mine and my after 120 hrs on the rebuilt IO360 A3D. This is the 6th report flagging Chrome staying high at 10 vs normal 2 and nickel at 5 vs normal 1. The report states possible excessive wear on chrome plated piston rings and nickel exhaust valve guides. Neither of these are on an upward trend and oil usage is very low. The filter associated with this oil sample had no metal. Any opinions on on whether this is cause for alarm?

They have had my oil sample for 21 days. I just emailed asking what is up. Anyone else caught in this slow down?

If you ask for them they will send them. I just received the rebuilt pump. They received it on a Friday and had it shipped it out the following Thur. $500. Can't beat that kind of service. Is it legal for a pilot to install the pump? Two fuel lines and a pair of wires. My guess is no.

Let's see. I think I started this thread but it is now unrecognizable. Oh well. I found a site where you can get small quantities of knife connectors. One or as many as you want in any type of connector. https://www.digikey.com

Thanks for all the inputs. This is a classic case of where you need one or two but can't go to the hardware store for aircraft quality parts. I could get one at Aircraft Spruce for a few cents and then pay $15 for the delivery. Scrounging around would probably be the most cost effective.

What is this type of connector called? It is used to spice power to the boost pump and also used to connect the landing light wire on the lower engine cowl. Can't find them online.

I'm planning to overhaul my Dukes pump at Aeromotors. My guess is they don't supply new O rings with the overhaul. Any idea where to source them. I looks like each elbow fitting has two o rings. One rubber and one made from a material I don't recognize . Any ideas on where to source these? Mine are in good shape but I would prefer new ones.

I did it little by little so as not to take too muck. Hopefully I got it right.

I used to have a loud whine in my headset. Then I read someplace that cleaning up the master switch may help. I did it and the whine is gone.

I took off the engine end fitting again and shave a bit of the cable cover so I could push the fitting further up on to the cable. That did trick. The small key at the cable end was not fully engage the tach drive.

The tac cable pulled loose from its fitting at the engine side. I removed the fitting and reinstalled it on the cable. Then I screw the cable back on the engine and now the tac does not work. From the engine side I pulled the cable out of its cover and it is not broken. Next I unscrewed the fitting from indicator side and ran the engine. The cable does not turn. At the engine side the cable is screwed into the engine such that only about two thread show so I believe it is fully in. Is it possible that the cable is not engaging on the engine side? Or what else could be the problem?

Interesting tool. I have never seen on of like it. And cheap. But I'm not sure there is enough room between filter and the firewall when you add the drive to the tool.. I was using a 1" claw on a 3/8 drive that worked well but it is a 12 point minus the opening so not enough grip with this filter. I ended with a rounded nut.

The problem I would have had with this kind of tool is the lever arm is too short. My filter was really stuck. My 18 inch slip joint plyers have a lever arm of about 12 inches. It took both hands on the plyers and pulling a couple of times with all I had to finally break it loose. I applied so much force that the entire filter distorted. It had to have been 150 to 200 ft-lbs. Truly an extreme case. Maybe the installer didn't use any lube.

Good suggestions. Thanks for the replies. The part that I don't get is why the 48110-1 filter I used for years never stuck. I don't have one of those filters to compare but I think the -2 filter I'm using now has a thicker rubber seal. When it contacts it flattens and has more contact surface causing the sticking.

I've done all my oil changes since I bought 3514H around 1995. The filters came of without a fuss and I never had a leak. A couple of years ago I convert it to an IO 350 A3B6 so it uses a different filter which was installed by the shop that did the conversion. At the first oil change it was stuck so hard I had to find a 6 point wrench to loosen it as the12 point I used for all those years rounded the nut. When I installed the fresh filter I made sure it wasn't on too tight. At the next oil change I found it still hard to break free even though I know I didn't over-tighten it. The last oil change was done by a shop during annual and they must have made sure it wasn't coming loose, So today the only way I was able to get that filter off was to grab the nut with a set of 18 in plyers and pulled with everything I had and finally it started to turn but not before the entire filter was distorted. There seems to something about this 48110-2 filter that causes it to stick. Anyone else using this filter find this to be the case?

I have the combined original OAT/TGT analogue indicator. I'd like to test the sensor but can't come up with an easy way to get it that cold.