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bgpilot1

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Everything posted by bgpilot1

  1. Teddy would ride in the back seat below 12,000 with no issues, just like a ride in the car. Attached photo was just while moving the aircraft on the ground. He grew up at the airport so different noises such as thunderstorms or fireworks don't bother him too much. Do be sure to keep your puppy hydrated while flying. Just like humans. Short flights until fully potty trained! Barry
  2. Here are two documents for the FT-101. Regards, Barry hoskins wires.pdf Hoskins_FT101_K-Factor.pdf
  3. Cabin lights or check the ground wire to the alternator and to the battery for corrosion.
  4. I second the opinion to call Bob Weber at webairconsulting.com. He really knows the analog autopilots and helped me fix a trim servo issue with my KAP150 that Duncan Avionics overhauled twice without fixing the issue. He is really good at working with you or your avionics technician to isolate the issue and identify the proper fix.
  5. Fine wire spark plugs are a good idea. You could try replacing just the bottom plugs with fine wires. Also, you could buy TCP Alcor and add to the fuel. (Not recommended for turbos.) https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/alcortcp.php Barry
  6. Ah, I owned 9516M for many years. Great plane. I believe I had the servos overhauled around 2016. And I recently had your same issue with my M20K with the KAP150 autopilot, even after the trim servo was overhauled 2x by Duncan Aviation. The trim motor would operate but the clutch wouldn't engage consistently or at all. Call Bob Weber at webairconsulting.com. He can help you quickly diagnose the issue and work with your avionics/mechanic. Highly recommend Bob's service. Regards, Barry
  7. Brad, I'm based at Dewitt Spain airport in Memphis and have owned a Cherokee 140, Piper Arrow, Cessna 152, Mooney M20F for 10 years and currently a M20K. Would be happy to discuss your questions and take you for a flight. I'm 6'2" and 235 lbs. PM me with your contact info. Barry
  8. My 67F was in great shape and was valued at around $85k. Sold for 10% less but priced below value. - $28,000 for the engine and accessories - good field overhaul with new cylinders, sky-tek starter and plane power alternator (my overhaul was more but there are reputable shops that can do the job for this amount.) - $5,000 for basic interior (carpets from airtex, sheep skin seat covers, repaint old plastics) - $10,000 for Garmin 430W installed, keep old radio for #2 - $3,000 for tail beacon ADSB - $8,000 for total tank reseal - $2,000 for 11 new gear donuts Value = $29,000. If there is no corrosion, the plane is rigged properly and doesn't need a new nose gear, I think someone would give you around this amount after they take out a loan to cover all the upgrades. Then, they have a plane they can call their own. So basically, the first response was probably accurate. :)
  9. By far, the best product I've used is Turtle Was Bug and Tar Remover. Only $5 a bottle and can be found at any car parts store near you.
  10. Call Sarasota Avionics at their Sarasota location and ask for Larry. He diagnosed and fixed my AP heading issue quickly and will happily discuss your situation. I couldn't be more pleased with the work they did on my AP, Radar Altimeter and compass. Barry
  11. The amp meter in my 1985 M20K has been pegged to the right beyond the +70 marking. It was made by Rochester Gauge Inc of Dallas Tx. Part # 5-90330. Just had it removed and started calling around to see who could fix the problem. Didn't have much luck but a local company, Avionics Specialists in Memphis TN was able to diagnose and fix the issue. The magnet on the back had become loose and moved just a tiny bit off center. Took about 45 minutes of troubleshooting and now it is back to normal.
  12. I had Don Maxwell in Longview, TX replace the prop governor on my 1967 M20F a few years back. I didn't have the same symptoms. Once the prop wouldn't decrease when at altitude for a few minutes, then it got better and operated normally for a short time before it went to Maxwell. Give him a call. From my invoice: Removed prop governor for overhaul. Governor not serviceable. Replaced governor with new ATH-1 governor, Sn. 15205147. Installed using new provided stud kit and MS9144B gasket. Parts and labor came to $2400.
  13. May want to consider having your crankshaft dynamically balanced. When I had the engine overhauled in my M20F a few years ago, it seemed to make a difference.
  14. Short story here. I purchased Mooney M20F N9516M in 2008. The plane was in Arkansas waiting for new paint and I'm out living in Seattle. So I go out to Paine Field in Everett and spot a similar Mooney so I drive up, get out and start looking it over. Wow, it's N9514M - just 2 digits off. Then I see a guy drive up in a black Saab 9-3. I have the same car, same year and same black paint job...probably the same Saab problems too. He gets out and walks over to his Mooney. Some coincidence. We've kept in touch since even though I moved back to Memphis. He contacted me yesterday to let me know our planes turn 50 this month. October 10th and October 24th. Now, who has 9515M? I've seen 9512M sitting at Don Maxwell's, but not in flying condition. Happy 50th birthday 951.M!
  15. Here are some responses I found online when troubleshooting my STEC 60-2 a while back. First, the 60-2 doesn't have intergral GPSS (strictly CDI needle-driven for GPS tracking unless you have GPSS). If you don't have GPSS, you have to get it to intercept the final approach course in NAV mode and then step to APR mode far enough before GS intercept that it thinks it's flying an ILS. If you're using GPSS, then it's getting its feed through the HDG input, and it will not capture GS in HDG mode. That means you need to get it on the final approach course using GPSS and then shift from HDG to NAV and then APR far enough before GS intercept that it thinks it's flying an ILS. I generally will use HDG mode and ALT hold mode when being vectored to the final and on the final intercept vector will activate selected heading intercept on the 60-2 by pressing both HDG and NAV simultaneously. If I am flying the complete approach using my own navigation, I will have the autopilot in both heading and altitude as before, but my GPSS will have GPSS selected. Once I am aligned with the final approach course, I will select NAV mode on the 60-2. Once you are out of HDG mode, the GPSS is irrelevant. The autopilot should automatically switch to APR mode and track the glidepath. The wiring error possibility is that the wrong signal was interconnected to the autopilot. The autopilot has an input named "ILS Energize" and the 530W has an output of the same name on P5006 - pin 29. If these two pins are interconnected, you will be able to track an ILS GS but not a LPV GP. The correct 530W signal to wire to the autopilot is "ILS/GPS Approach" P5001 - pin 14. If this is your situation, have the shop that installed the 530W fix it as a warranty fix. The install wiring diagrams are clear on this point, but many older know it all installers "don't need to read no FXXXING manuals". John - the ILS energize input you refer to - is that the input that tells the autopilot "Hey this is a localizer (or other approach precision input) and you should switch to APR mode"? Yes, the input to the autopilot is to tell the autopilot when a localizer is tuned by a Nav receiver. That signal in combination with the lack of flags for horizontal and vertical CDI, tell the autopilot to look for a GS. Since the ILS Energize predates the invention of WAAS GPS with vertical the new signal ILS/GPS Approach replaces the older ILS Energize. ILS/GPS Approach is active under two conditions: 1) When the CDI has been selected to VLOC, it acts the same as ILS Energize; and 2) When the CDI has been selected to GPS and an approach has been activated, it simulates ILS Energize to the autopilot so that it will enable the intercept and track of the glidepath function. The autopilot doesn't know the difference.
  16. I'm working with my mechanic (please, no comments about experienced mooney expert) right now to redo the rigging on the elevator and stab on my 1967 M20F. S#670093 Question - how do you determine the neutral position for both, or the neutral trim position? How do you determine the zero spring travel position? Could anyone provide some how to, 123 steps to the process, if one was starting from the beginning, assuming trim, stab and elevator were all wrong? Thanks a bunch! I know others can benefit from a great answer since I've done a bunch of reading and only get pieces of info here and there! Barry Control Surface Movements (Aircraft with serial numbers up to 690001) Wing Flaps .................................... T.O. Position .... Down ........ 15° ± 1° ....................................................... Landing ............ Down ........ 33° + 0°, -2° Aileron .............................. Up ....... 12½° to 17° ...... Down ........ 8° ± 1° Aileron static position ............................................... Down ........ 0° to 2° Elevator ........................... Up ....... 24° ± 1° ............ Down ....... 10½° ± 1° Rudder ............................ Left ....... 23° to 24° ......... Right ........ 23° to 24° Stabilizer (L.E.) ................ Up ....... 1 to 2½° ............ Down ....... 4½° + 5° Elevator Trim Assist Unit With stabilizer set at 3½° negative setting to the thrust line, adjust trim assist unit (740044) for elevator up angle of 19° ± ½° at the zero spring travel position.
  17. Ah, thanks everyone for your ideas. And we've made it this far without any Johnson Bar jokes! Perhaps we should create a new message board for these...we can start with Hugo's reply. But back to the topic. Anyone know a mechanic near Memphis,TN that would have the gear rigging tools? Are these standard or Mooney specific? Barry
  18. He does not have the extra inner gears doors installed. I'm thinking a trip to Don Maxwell may be the next step. Barry
  19. My friend recently purchased a 1968 M20F which seems to be in very good health overall. But he is having problems getting the Johnson Bar locked in the gear down position. It operates smoothly until about an inch or two from where the handle meets the floor. Then, it takes a whole lot of effort to get the bar down the last inch and secured. I don't think flight speed is the issue. Ordinary mechanics put the plane up on jacks and cycled the gear. They didn't spot any issues. So I'll assume the gear doors closed properly. The main landing gear springs look good, no corrosion. My next suggestion is to grease all the points. But I'm no expert. Anyone have any ideas why the bar would be so tough to secure once it's 2 inches from the floor? Thanks, Barry
  20. I'd recommend also checking your ground wires all the way from the battery to the alternator.
  21. If you have electrical demons - check for bad grounds. This was the ground attached to the old generator. not good!
  22. Note from JPI - the EDM 830 can be rotated but when vertical it displays better when the 2 buttons are at the bottom - when viewing from the side. Not in their marketing materials!
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