KSMooniac

Could you go to a modern HSI and drop an engine monitor in place of one of the old CDI's? Sent from my motorola edge plus 2023 using Tapatalk

Everything I've read indicates that if you really want it to last, you ought to look into a grind prep, honestly. You might search the topic on beechtalk.com or garagejournal.com. Years ago at my first house, I used an over-the-counter 2-part epoxy floor coat kit on brand-new concrete. I did a muriatic acid etch and good rinse/dry and thought that would be sufficient since there was no oil or grease exposure. It failed in places after a couple of years... next time I will pay a pro to do the best process and use the best products.

I think it will be an upgrade... We'll see. Impulse purchase from a neighbor after he couldn't fit it in his application so I got a deal. I may change my mind! Sent from my motorola edge plus 2023 using Tapatalk

I was, and fortunately mine sailed right through in Wichita. I'm finally changing to an LED right now, so if you'd like some spares let me know! I bought a used kit years ago for spares and ended up needing a cable after I pinched my original. Otherwise, I have two kits available soon. Sent from my motorola edge plus 2023 using Tapatalk

Are you describing the XeVision HID light circa 2007-08?

Just to muddy the waters a bit more... just because something in the past was granted an STC and especially marketed as "STC'd" doesn't necessarily mean one was required to accomplish the change. It used to be a lot easier to get an STC back when engineering judgment was acceptable, and FAA personnel were more reasonable in their reviews. I'd hazard a guess that if you proposed doing the caliper swap today, a reasonable IA might consider it a minor mod and be done with it.

My interpretation (I'm an engineer in the industry working on new products) is that the IA has the authority to determine major/minor according to the regs. Using factory approved and produced parts goes a long way towards nudging many things we're discussing towards minor... such as adding the wing sight fuel gauges. They are supplementary, and independent of the primary fuel quantity system, so that should be a slam-dunk minor mod, especially using the Mooney parts. (Weep No More added mine during reseal long ago with a logbook entry). NORSEE was written with this kind of logic too for safety-enhancers like AOA systems that are independent of the existing pitot-static system. Adding later model Mooney factory seats also falls into this category...they're already certified, they fit, so just install them with a logbook entry and W&B update. We did this with my throttle quadrant deletion modification... I took all of the factory Mooney parts from an 81 J and retrofitted them into my 77 J.... minor mod. I did NOT engineer new engine controls or do other crazy contortions, I just used factory parts. It should be the same way IMO for a J cowl retrofit, although at that point there might be a minor nit using J parts going on to an E or F... but I suspect many IA's would be fine with it. With the VARMA regs and the unobtanium ram air duct, you could perhaps twist some logic into supporting the mod to delete ram air and use the more efficient J airbox and cowl without the ram air hole, which Mooney even deleted themselves towards the end of the line. That is a safety and reliability improvement in my mind to get rid of a leaky duct that will pass dirt into your engine and perhaps clog a fuel injector.... For those that are on the never-ending path to improving our great vintage airplanes, I encourage you to not give up! There are logical reasons to do so, and there are still (almost) reasonable paths to accomplish it if you're using the right mindset, and have a good relationship with your mechanic/shop/IA. It helps to be a DIY-er too b/c paying for a lot of it does NOT make economic sense. It is a hobby for me, and (mostly) enjoyable so I don't mind doing the work myself with supervision. I also don't do anything crazy or stupid. The regs were not written to keep our planes stuck in the 60s or 70s until they become completely unsupportable and unairworthy.

Which prop do you have? MT by chance? If so, the MT does not have a yellow arc like the original 2-blade McCaulley.

How many hours so far? For the record, I'm glad we have an alternate supplier, finally, for the angle valve cylinders. I just hope they can last 2000 hours at a time.

Most anecdotal reports I've read over the last 15+ years I've been paying attention indicate Continental still cannot put valves in properly at their factory. Experienced engine shops will even go so far as to remove the valves and redo the installation before installing on an engine so that they'll make a full TBO run. Something to keep in mind while shopping... I'd rather have an expert engine shop overhaul first-run cylinders that proved themselves if that is an option for you. Otherwise, in the current market with supply chain issues, labor shortages, etc you might not have a lot of options. Sent from my motorola edge plus 2023 using Tapatalk

If you're shopping for a Mooney, you would do well to contact Jimmy Garrison and get his valuation guide.

BAS is great. I would definitely start with them.

This is true. If there was a 2-blade MT available in 2010, I would have much preferred that over the 3 blade I bought. I'm still happy with the 3 blade, though. I didn't lose any cruise performance b/c it replaced a 70's design with a late 2000's design, and the airfoil and planform are more efficient. I did get better acceleration and climb, and far greater aerodynamic braking when pulling the throttle because of all the extra blade area. Last year at OSH I drooled on the new Trailblazer 2-blade prop as a potentially optimal choice for any 4 cylinder Mooney. But the new owner's behavior earlier this year likely means I'll never be able to afford it, unfortunately. We'll see.

I replaced my original 2-blade Mac with the skinny chord and square tips ('77 J ) with the MT you're considering, and would choose it again without hesitation. It was ~12-13 lbs lighter than OEM, smaller diameter/more ground clearance, and DRAMATICALLY smoother. It is the only prop that offers more ground clearance on a Mooney in case that is important to you. I expect all of those benefits are far greater when replacing a 3 blade metal prop of either flavor. I dynamically balanced my installation down to 0.01 IPS and it feels like a sewing machine. Performance wise, better takeoff, climb, and landing and no loss of cruise speed compared to my original. The later 2-blade Mac with round tips and fatter chord is faster than my original, though. I believe the fastest option on the market is the Hartzell Top Prop, but it is heavy and had a lot of spinner/bulkhead/backplate failures in my observation. Hartzell seems to have a habit of releasing AD's when their sales slow down too. The newest 2-blade Top Prop with the composite blades is the only option that might tempt me away from the MT, but I don't believe they have an STC yet, and even worse, the new private equity owners have sent prices to the moon so I doubt I will ever buy any of their products in the future. Norman (@testwest) has some very accurate models of the J with various props and he can give you a far more technical answer than I can. He chose the original Top Prop for his highly-optimized J and was seeing 165 KTAS at 10 GPH in cruise...fastest J to my knowledge. There is a lot to like with the MT and I've written extensively about my experience here. I'm fortunate to have a distributor/service shop local to me, though, to address Don's concern above. EDIT: New Top Props Trailblazer - Hartzell Propeller Switching from Hartzell Blended Airfoil to a Trailblazer Propeller - Glasair Aircraft Owners Association (glasair-owners.com) This is the future candidate prop, but not approved for us yet... hopefully soon, and at a reasonable price.

I replaced the shunt in my J during my EDM-900 installation, and yes, it was a PITA. I had to remove screws through the fuselage that fastened a supporting shelf...if your paint is nice, you might want to purchase a tool that cuts through the paint on a screw cleanly, to prevent chipping and flaking. It was a long and tedious installation, but I'm glad to have done it, and would choose JPI again if I had to switch planes.