Hank

That's what most of us are. But it's impossible to keep bots from searching and reporting back to lowlife imbeciles like this one, so he can try to squeeze in between seller and buyer. Know who you're sending money too, don't just fling it at some weird email.

I have both, too. AccuFlight follows the heading bug, great for straight-line flight. AccuTrak follows whatever I program into my WAAS GPS--straight lines, turns, instrument approaches, etc. But neither one does anything with the elevator, you still have to watch and manage your altitude.

Many of mine are riveted in, so I remove all of the ones with screws. I keep one unpainted screw in each; it is loosened, the painted ones are removed, and the panel swivels out of the way. Then I can never mix them up during reinstall, and cuss because the screw holes are not all perfect matches. Seems like I remove about 4 panels per wing.

Bah humbug. Our politicians are mandating electric motors for everyone anyway, then during summer telling us to not run home AC or charge the electric vehicles they so badly want us to buy . . . . It's all about control, same as G100UL vs Swift94 vs 100LL. We will likely all end up paying more to use the fuel pushed the hardest by the most politicians . . . . Whether it works in our engines or not, it will be the only thing whose sale is permitted. Control!

Sounds like you already are! Mine's not too bad . . . .

Wow. Broke out of the clouds ~1000 agl, in a 4.8g spiral; two seconds later, passed through 8g and broke the wing spar at both main gear mounts!

I don't think an auto shop has ever damaged my vehicle when working on it. And I don't drive "high end," just basic stuff like Honda Accord, Ford Ranger and now a base model Nissan Altima. Fortunately, the A&Ps / IAs that I have used on my Mooney have not caused cosmetic damage that I've noticed. It was painted two owners ago, sometime in the 90s, and I think it looks pretty good still. I have had to ditch one shop due to quality and quantity of work, doing unapproved work, and stupid rates [we took your wheels off, decided your bearings are bad, then put it all back together. We want to charge you to jack up your plane, remove, clean and disassemble the wheels, replace & lube the bearings, then put everything back together.] After that experience, I needed a Ferry Permit to go to Joey Cole's and have the plane rerigged; he said I was lucky the gear came down to land, to say nothing of how out-of-whack the elevator was. [dumbass replaced the tie rod ends when I told him not to, because he didn't have rigging boards to make sure everything was right.] So far, four good ones and just the one bad apple.

Welcome! Hope you enjoy your new Mooney as much as I enjoy mine!

Hey Hank. Edison did a great job on my C back in 2011. Recently had a tiny leak in the bottom of my left wing--tightened two screws about 1/4 turn each, and it's gone. He did the work on time and on budget, and even drive me to the other airport to catch my cheap flight home when I dropped off the Mooney.

If you use wingwalk compound from Spruce, the good looks last, and no overspray.

True, but I've landed after 90 knot instrument approaches. It's a little different, flying the plane onto the runway. Typically I ignore the steady state wind and add half the gust factor. But a strong steady wind makes for a long approach since groundspeed goes way down. Then again, rollouts are pretty short too.

I had good results using a Rustoleum garage floor kit at home. It's 2-part epoxy with color chips to sprinkle on as you go, and was available in gray or beige. It even came with cleaning powder, which I think the water turned into muriatic acid to mop the floor with. The mop was fairly destroyed when I was done. The whole thing took a couple of days, with the door cracked and a fan blowing on it to dry. Paint adhesion of any kind is all about surface preparation, so be thorough. I lived in that house for nine years, parking on the surface every day, with no problems. Think the kit came from HD, but most big box stores should carry it. A hangar is much larger than a 2-car garage, so calculate the square footage and buy multiple kits, and don't expect to clean the floor in one evening after work. Good luck!

I have a separate PTT on both yokes, similar but different. My PC is still functional. But it's amazing how few cockpit and panel shots show either yoke. I'll find a photo (may be on my tablet at home) and upload later.

Sounds like you have the low drag model! Mine is almost the size of a coke can.

Here's one of my main gear legs, with the fittings circled. Yeah, it's dirty and greasy, mid-annual a few years ago. Some are obviously pre-greasing, but some look post-greasing. Happy hunting!

Sorry, Fred was after my time. I used Terry Philips. Used to be an independent IA in the area. Let me dig through my logs, there may be a signature from before I bought my C in '07. But he may be getting a little long in the tooth.

My tie down, identical to this one, is a long piece, rounded side-to-side to match the fuselage. The eye bolt is at the front; the back is curved down then back up but the free end doesn't touch--call it an inch and a half long and 1/2" or a little more down. No idea why, the whole thing is probably 8-9" long.

When I lived in Huntington, the shop on our field (KHTW) took care of several other Mooneys beside just mine. They also had a shop at KHTW. But I think they had trouble and closed. It would be worth checking with the shop at HTS anyway. There were also a couple of Mooneys in nearby Ashland, KY but I forget the airport code. They used to come to HTW, too. Maybe ask where they go now? Joey Cole is great, I've gone there from here, about a 4 hour rental car ride home. Good luck with the purchase!

You'll be impressed by how bright it is! Shows up great in sunset photos as you are taking off away from your photographer.

The engine starting when the key is released is classic sign of a bad left magneto. Either the mag is bad, the switch is bad, or the left magneto wiring is bad. I'd start by testing the left magneto.

No idea what my C left the factory with. What I have is collapsible rather than folding, and I think it came from Chief--the tag disappeared when I powder coated it from rusty blue to a burgundy that almost matches the lower fuselage.

That's how my 1970 C was done, too. No, I don't have the buttonhook tail. Anyone know why it was changed? How about a photo of the new, not-so-good one? I've never paid attention before. I just noticed that the stinger on top of the tail is angled up at the front, while I'm used to the tail top being rather flat.

There are 11 on my nose wheel, and 8 on each main leg. I like to find and wipe all of them, then lube from the top down. That keeps me from reaching past several already-greased fittings to get one I missed, and getting more grease all over my arms . . . .

Wash Wax All works great. Spray with the garden hose, get it good and wet, let it sit for a half hour and wipe with an old towel to get most of the solids and white goo off. Then let it dry and use Wash Wax All with an old towel to clean and a dry one to buff. Infind that by the time my buffing towel is wet, I'm pretty tired. So i.hang the damp towels on my tail towel bar antenna tondry. I buy cheap white 100% cotton towels in 24-packs, and use similar washcloths in 36-packs to scrub. Both packs should be $10-$12 each. Cheap price, lasts long time.

I've always heard half the gusts. So if the wind is 20G35, I'll add 7 mph to my speed, not 27 mph.