DonMuncy

A hangar elf bent a an aluminum strip about 3/4 wide and 1/8 or less thick, into the same shape as the cover and epoxied (JB Weld or some such) on to the cover on mine. The screws through the aluminum do not wallow out the holes like plastic does.

Be careful with the testing. It doesn't take much pressure to run the ASI to the max and beyond, damaging the instrument.

The intellect and vocabularies of MSers is amazing

I'm glad I live in Texas.

And be careful about the screws and washers. The electrics for the senders is a little strange.

It is easy to pull the interior panels on the sides just in front of the front seats. The inside senders are right there. If they are leaking you should be able to see the blue stain. If you decide to tighten them, don't overdo it. Could be on either side; equally likely.

Most of them are located just to the left of the co-pilot's left knee. You aren't expected to know everything to start.

If this is true Mark, GAMI should caution people about using it on GAMInjectors.

Has anyone here did the Ultra Leather thing themselves. Is it put on with contact cement? Does it stretch around the various curves well?

I was (still am) having trouble getting my JPI 700 to download flight data. I talked to the JPI folks and they suggested "resetting" the instrument back to its original settings, and if that didn't fix it, it would need to go back to them for repair. Their directions for the reset were insufficient for my competency level, and in my blundering around, I managed to screw up the JPI K factor, without knowing where it started. Does anyone know what the starting K factor should be. I realize it needs to be fine tuned to be highly accurate, but I need a place to start. I'm pretty sure the cruise fuel flow setting of 60 gph is not quite right.

Great job Jolie.

Just how did you discover that?

I applaud you. All of us should read all our manuals etc. carefully. And re-read them periodically, so as to keep these "one the fly" learning experiences at a minimum.

I guess this "vector departure" thing is just one of those you don't know about until you run into it like I did, or read about someone who did. Maybe everyone else reads their GTN users guide closer than I would if I had a GTN.

I calibrated my dip stick today. It was not difficult, but time-consuming. The details of the process are too lengthy to post here, but I will be glad to share any details any one is interested in.

I hangar at RBD under DFW class B. I am not aware there is a vector departure here, although I don't know that I keep up with it very well.

From what I have read, the "piston to cylinder clearance" problem is much worse on an air cooled engine than a water cooled. Thus the need for preheat. Maybe someone else can elucidate.

Very nice advice Paul. I suspect that it would be rare in the Dallas class B to get a VFR clearance through. It has been several years since they let me in Bravo VFR.

It was only disconcerting to me because of my ignorance of their existence. Next time I am given a departure that is not listed in my 430 database, I will assume it is this type and look on FlyQ for it. I will check later to confirm that FlyQ has the same information as Foreflight.

Without trying to be too much of a contrarian, if you don't know what is below the undercast, what is the advantage of spinning straight down vs descending gradually down through it. It would appear to me that if the space under the undercast was minimal, breaking out in a glide might be safer than breaking out pointed straight down.

On my K, the engine stumbled for about a half second, ran for a few seconds, then stumbled for about 2 seconds. That was enough to assure me it was at the bottom and I switched to the other tank. It took about 4 or 5 seconds of stumbling before it ran smooth again.

Or grind off the sharp "corner" of the drill bit. It is very important to use a wood block behind the plastic. The plastic cracks as the drill exits the other side, not as it enters the plastic.

Is there any way to ground plastic containers?

On the subject of pre-heating, I left my plane with TACAir at Centennial (APA) this week while in Colorado. When I got ready to leave yesterday, it was about 30 degrees F outside and I called and asked them to pre-heat my engine. Everyone on the desk acted like I was crazy. When I arrived, they said they were trying to get their cart to my plane, as they didn't routinely do pre-heats. They fooled around long enough, that the outside temperature got above 40. I cancelled the order and started it up. I would have thought that everyone around Denver would have done pre-heating as an everyday affair. Being a flatlander from Dallas, maybe I'm just not in the know.

I agree that is a very good system. My airport shut down their self serve pump, and I am reluctant to fly somewhere else and tie up their pump for the length of time necessary for me to play my game. I also agree that one gallon increments is over-kill, but now I think I am likely to do 2 gallons at a time. And my tanks are 37 or 38 gallons each. Still a bit of time.