DonMuncy

I think some missed my emoji.

I don't claim to be an expert, but my impression is that when you put them "in trail", they are free to move wherever they want to (dictated by gravity and aerodynamic forces.) Thus, when you land and slow to taxi speeds, they will drop completely open.

I have tried to stay out of this discussion because I am admittedly biased. I have known Paul and Shery for quite a few years and consider them my friends. Being in Texas, I have not utilized their shop, but have purchased parts, etc. from them. From knowing them and knowing their reputation from many other pilots and plane owners, I am highly skeptical of anyone claiming they are dishonest or unfair. It also worries me when I see this serious attack on any shop, for fear that a person new to the forum might see the post and form an opinion without knowing more. Naturally, I have no knowledge of the facts of this situation and thus will not say anyone is right or wrong. However, I believe Paul is most likely on top of most things that take place in their shop, and have extreme difficulty believing that the transaction would go down as the OP reported, and would expect that, if given the opportunity, they would make it right. I would be really interested in hearing how this finally plays out.

You don't think blind people should have access to their money

Similar to driving up to an automatic gate and finding a keypad with braille on the keys.

Thanks, good information.

Thanks, I appreciate the help.

Wow, you have my admiration. It doesn't seem to be possible to describe it any better than you have, so I guess my elf will just have to start the trial and error process. Was there any way you could tell (on the ground) you were doing it right, or did you have to fly it to test it.

In my opinion, you are correct. No PMA is needed to make an owner produced part. Naturally the installing A&P would have to approve it as conforming to the type certificate. The owner has to "have a hand in specifying how the part is made" (ie. material, dimensions, or the like). It would seem to me that a tracing of the old lens and how thick is should be made would suffice. This is my opinion, and I don't claim to have any special authority for that.

I may not have been clear. In the closed position, mine are open about an inch.

That is when you do the "what do I do if the engine quits right here." and "what do I do if I have a complete electrical failure right now."

As I posted earlier, I have molds for both types used on the K model. The Plexiglass is cheap and the wife's oven to form them is free. I have a template to router the shape. Drilling the holes in the right places is the biggest chore. If anyone is willing to live with my workmanship, (and the number needed is not overwhelming), I can turn you out some for very little over the cost of materials and shipping.

Mine are adjusted about 1 inch open. I don't have the Vernier set-up; just a push-pull knob. Maybe someone will jump in with more knowledge to help us.

Has anyone tried SCOTTS SUPER SOAP WALNUT BASED INDUSTRIAL HAND CLEANER. (It seems to be sold under other names that include the word walnut) A friend gave me some, and it seems to work very well. It doesn't require re-washing with ordinary soap to remove the residue like Goop of Gojo does. I haven't tried it with severely greasy/dirty hands (I don't work that hard much anymore), but it seems up to the task.

Is the effort necessary to close the cowl flaps (K model) dependent on the adjustment of the closed position of the flaps. My hangar elf may have adjusted mine open a little more than necessary when in the closed position. They open and close easily on the ground, and are easy to open in flight, but are very difficult to close when flying.

A very good system. The only problem was when you forgot to reset the reserve handle back to its original position when you filled up. Generally you only did that once.

The only thing worse that false positives are false negatives.

What if it checks bad? Can they fix it, or does it have to be replaced. I had one of the Guardian cigarette lighter plug in detectors, and after a couple of years it started giving false positives. (I cancelled at least one flight). They (supposedly) gave me a discount on a replacement, which lasted a year or so. When deciding on which one to get, factor in the maintenance or replacement.

In my opinion, not a problem on the Continental. When you check them next time, you may well find that the ones now in the 60s may be in the 70s and vise versa.

This is the second time I have seen a tire deflate on landing in the last couple of years. What are the most common reasons (guesses) for the deflations.

I sent you a PM

Thanks for the offer. I never considered those washers. I think I will get some of them and give them a try. Don

I sent you a PM. Thanks for the offer on the 2D-3D conversion. I may take you up on it sometime. Don

I still don't have a mill. I sourced them out to a Chinese outfit. I found several places that would do them, but most of them required 3D data, and all I had was my own drawings. One place finally agreed to convert my drawings to 3D and manufacture some for me.

I finally got my 3rd iteration visor built. I think it is an improvement over my earlier ones, as there is more "friction area" than the ball joints, so they move easier without being too loose. As always, glad to share ideas on design, materials, etc., and glad to have comments and suggestions.