DonMuncy

I would look for a grounding wire a little loose. Easy enough to use a wire and a couple of alligator clips to make a temporary ground to check (although a PIA to get back there to hook it up).

A trip to the Home Depot brass fitting department will get you a couple of fittings to make a removable plug. Yes, it always aeems a waste to fill a tank with a substantial amount of O2 still in it, but there is no other way.

Geez, you guys make my head spin. I know only slightly more than red to positive, black to negative.

I agree with that idea. It happened to me once. But I think Battery Minders are a good idea. My thought is that, periodically, you should disconnect the Battery Minder for a week and check to see if it will start the plane easily. (Is that a CB's battery capacity test?)

I agree, except I would move corrosion to the top of the list. And I would tell the person doing the inspection, that if corrosion is found, stop the inspection at that point. No use continuing to incur cost.

I don't know how that would work if they charged you with the testing fee. If you are constantly swapping O2 tanks with them, you might wind up with one that needs a test every time you swapped, just from bad luck.

I have swapped multiple times and have never seen a bill for a hydro test.

So the theory is that when fuel is run through the injector, a tiny amount will cling to the bore of the injector when the engine is stopped. The oxygen will then oxidize it, and then fuel flow through it when the engine is run again, will not remove it? I'm not as smart as I thought I was. Thanks for the education.

Thanks for the information. Do you (or anyone else) have an idea of what might have created that clear varnish build-up?

Great for portable cylinders. Not so great with an on-board tank like K models. I have to keep my refill cylinder in the hangar, or carry it back and forth.

I hate to act like a "know-it-all" and I admit that my knowledge has definite limits; but... I know that injectors can get blocked by bits of junk. It happened to one of mine once. But I think that routine cleaning of injectors for a build-up of something is a waste of time. They get cleaned by a blast of solvent (av-gas) on every engine cycle. Has anyone ever seen a build-up in any injector bore?

Don't lose the adaptor for the portable tanks. Soon someone will want you to fill their portable tank for them. Remember that you can never fill a tank completely. It only fills until the pressures between them equalizes. You will have to refill the big cylinder when the pressure goes below the minimum you will tolerate in the plane. You may only get 3 fills before needing to replenish. With a two cylinder cascade system, it gets better, but you still have a limited number of fills available. As to calculating the amounts of O2, I don't worry about it. I keep re-filling until it gets down to my minimum and re-fill. Also, it is very important to remember that when filling, if you hear a "rattling" sound, quickly shut down the tank valve until it stops. That is the sound of the valve on the tank in your plane "bouncing" on its seat, and will quickly ruin it. They are expensive and a pain to replace. The fire marshal in Dallas, will not tolerate O2 bottles in the hanger unless you pay a yearly fee. When he comes to inspect, my FBO folks tip me off in advance, so I can go bring my cylinders home until after the inspection.

Mooneyspace folks have been buying my visors, etc. for years and I ship before payment almost every time. I have NEVER been stiffed. Most often, the recipient pays me before he receives the shipment. Am I stupid? Should I change my trust level, or my way of doing things? Do you think it makes a difference that I am on the selling end, rather than on the buying end? If, as some have suggested, a seller waits to ship until paid, are there unscrupulous sellers who would take your money and never send a product? Is it because most everyone here knows me?

That might work for now; but what happens when you get three more dogs.

The adjustment for the fuel caps is a bit of a trade-off; tight enough to keep water out, and loose enough to open without a tool, but I think your A&P is a little on the tight side. It is not hard for a reasonably talented hangar elf to adjust it.

Thanks, it is working now.

Why can I no longer see my PMs? Someone sent me a message about needing a tug, and now I can no longer find it, or any other messages. Am I losing my mind?

You are welcome to borrow my jack, or jacks, but I am at RBD on the opposite corner of the area. I am sorry I am totally overloaded right now and can not bring it (them) to you.

Good luck David. I can only imagine how much effort is involved.

Interesting. I was aware of the existence of them, but I had never seen it done. How long has it been since it was commonly done? 50 years?

You almost never hear of a failure of the bottom end unless the case has been split for some reason. It would not bother me to run a long way past TBO, if you keep up with the warning signs. In this case, oil pressures. And on Continentals, the oil pressure is pretty low to start with, since the oil pressure pick-up point is much further away from the pump, compared to Lycomings. So, unless there was some abrupt change in the pressure readings, I would keep running it.

That is interesting. It never occurred to me that any contaminants might have been introduced into the tanks at the welding shops that would not have been removed by emptying the tanks before refilling.

Not a criticism, but why do you not swap tanks?

The headset is a SoftComm. The mic sensor only has a SoftComm sticker on it. I have not been able to find any specific material about it, but will continue to look for it and look at other brand's sites. Thanks.

I have a headset that belonged to my brother (who passed away recently), that I am trying to refurbish, just for sentimental reasons. I have the audio working, but the mic is inoperable. The mic has two leads, each of which goes into the ear-cup to each lead off of what I perceive to be a capacitor, although I am not absolutely certain. The resistance across it jumps around with very high numbers. I have another headset I opened up to see if I could learn anything. Its two microphone leads go straight to the cable to the microphone jack; one to the ground the other to what I guess is the power. No capacitor, or anything else. I don't understand the high/low impedance stuff, nor dynamic mics, etc. I hate to buy another microphone just to check if it might be bad; plus I don't know which one I should buy anyway. Any ideas on a plan of attack to figure it out.