DonMuncy

Suppose that an oil manufacturer has a product that does 98% of what is desired. Then they figure out that to get that extra 2% protection, they will have to spend an additional $1 per quart. This will boost their cost such that they will have to either cut into their profit considerably, or raise their price substantially above their competition. What do you think their decision would be. If you assume they would do nothing, how much more would you spend to add something to gain that 2%.

If you are not on vectors and not otherwise instructed, you are to fly the full procedure. But it never hurts to ask.

I find it quite difficult to search for anything in the maintenance manual. I finally go mad and created an index for the M20K manual. If you would like a copy, feel free to PM me.

I have flown with both Parker and Jerry. I heartily recommend both.

Sounds similar to the proposition that there is no such thing as cold; only lack of heat.

Quote: For me, the wastegate would be the most important to have, of the three options under discussion. At one time, I would have agreed, as I assumed with a Merlyn, you could push the throttle forward and the wastegate would take care of it. Lately I have read that this is not the case. That you still have to take care to not overboost. If this is true (and I have no personal knowledge), my position is that "if I have to watch it some, I would just as soon watch it closer and save the $3000 plus. I have had my 231 for 15 years and it is not too much of a problem to watch the MP. I would be glad to be enlightened by folks who have the automatic wastegate.

I would be careful listening too much to an individual A&P, about how many people don't want to work on a Mooney, etc. By the same token, be careful about listening too much to a forum full of Mooney people. Talk to some people who work on a lot of Mooneys as well. Use all the information available to make the best choice for yourself.

In my opinion, neither have any significant impact on the exhaust system. You should do a GAMI spread check (google GAMI) to see if you even need GAMI injectors. If you need them, the engine may run smoother, and likely will let you run LOP. As noted earlier, GAMIs and intercoolers can't even be discussed in the same paragraph. Both good, but not one better than the other.

Wow, a lot of questions. Taking off is generally easier in a cross wind than landing. But if either of them are questionable, a student pilot would be well advised to not go. Planes generally have more cross wind capability than the pilot until the pilot is very experienced. Incidentally, the "demonstrated" cross wind limit for the plane you are flying, is not a limit. Most pretty good pilots can easily out-do those numbers. But you only want to figure that out as you gain experience. When you fly with your instructor, fly as many cross wind landings as possible and note how much wind you are dealing with. If you can consistently land with a cross wind component of x, with the instructor, then decrease that number by 2 knots when you try it alone. If you feel confident with that, try a couple higher, etc. Get your instructor to show you both "crab and kick" and slip techniques. As you try them, you will learn both and start figuring out which you like best. I learned to slip (rather than crab), but over the years, I have decided I like crabbing better. I do not believe one is better than the other. Just a lot different.

They look neat.

Definitely contact Parker. He is good, and a nice guy.

You also may try Air Parts of Lock Haven, PA.

A couple of folks inquired about the holes in my hubcaps in the photos I posted. The holes are made with a knockout punch (I have also heard them referred to as Greenlee punches, from the manufacturer of their brand name). You drill a hole in the appropriate spot, insert the punch through the hole and wrench the punch to cut out the hole. They make a real neat clean hole. They are pretty expensive. I haven't checked Home Depot or Lowes electrical section, but I know Grainger and high class tool stores have them. Mine are either 3/4 or 7/8 inch. I would have to go to the hangar to check for sure. Either size would work, but I have learned that some tubes/wheels have the stem in slightly different locations, and the larger hole would give you a little extra leeway. You will want to check in the aviation section at Lowes for the exact size plugs available. I originally got chrome plugs until some smart-aleck told me they would look better painted white. Don

It is not hard to check or fill if you have the right hub caps. See my gallery. (I don't seem to know how to attach pics here.)

My hangar elf told me if you have a router, you can make a plywood template and make your own out of aluminum sheet.

+1 for All American. Both Jimmy and David are straight shooters and nice guys.

The fuses are under the dimmer switch, but you don't have to remove the glareshield. above copilots left knee. (At least on my K).

Remove both front and rear cotter pins. Slide seat off rails at rear. Lift slightly and slide forward until it comes off rail at front. (This is the way it works on later models; I assume they all do the same.