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spitzfyre

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Everything posted by spitzfyre

  1. I did...... I have a tap/die kit that has the 1/8 npt tap that I needed
  2. I ended up tapping the holes, the tap had little resistance so that made me feel better about the condition of the threads. Upon install, I was able to get 3 of the 4 nozzles properly aligned, the 4th one would have required way over- or under-torque so I just left it. Ops and leak check went great. Thanks for the advice and info everyone
  3. Thanks, I'm aware of proper torque procedures and have all the manuals, but blindly turning something until it reaches torque isn't correct, either. I'm only getting 3ish threads down. My concern is that this is not enough, which would indicate galled threads. They don't look all that terrible upon inspection, though, so my question is, are 3ish threads normal, or are they galling?
  4. Resurrecting an old thread... When installing the injectors, how far into the cylinder were any of you able to get them to go? Do the shoulders have to be flush with the cylinder? I can get about 3-4 threads on mine before they tighten up. I admit that I didn't pay attention to this when removing the old ones, and I don't see any reference to this in the Mooney Service Manual.
  5. I don't know about interchangability, but I have a rounded spinner off my F that needs repair. It's dented. I never got around to sending it out, but I'll do so today or tomorrow. If it's repairable, I'll sell it to you for the cost of the repair. If you haven't found another one before then, anyway. As an FYI, I was able to get my cracked one pictured in this thread repaired at ASEI. They are located in Georgia
  6. Thanks, after researching it a bit more after posting, that is exactly what I've decided to do. I've got an elevator yoke on its way to me from a salvage yard. Thanks for your input!
  7. I realize this is a long shot, since this post is >1 year old But do you still have the pair of PN 710066-501? They should look like this Thank you
  8. Just like the title says. Looking for control shafts for my 201 upgrade. I bought shafts with control yokes several months ago and have just gotten around to installing them. Unfortunately, they don't fit under the panel (where they connect to the elevator yoke). The correct PN's I need are 710072-508 and 710072-507. Lasar says the factory can make them to the tune of $1200 each with 6-8 week lead time. I'd rather not spend that kind of money. Would also be interested in the Brittain solenoid for the PC retrofit (PN 4085-20) but I have another lead on this part so I'm not too desperate for it. Thanks!
  9. Just a followup I'm not sure if its the result of the warmer weather or my lubing all 3 switches, but the horn and light are behaving better. Now it shuts up shortly after takeoff as opposed to 20-25 minutes after. We'll see if it continues to improve, especially when the weather starts getting cooler again
  10. *Her* gear horn :-) Rags, yeah I definitely have a squat switch. I went back to the airport earlier this evening and found no gap at the top of the donuts with weight on wheels, as the manual instructs. But that doesn't make much sense to me doing it with weight on them; you'll never have a gap. So I used my bottle jack and lifted one side (wish I could lift both at the same time for gear swings!), measured the gap. Came up with 86 thou, which is supposedly within tolerances. Unless the manual limit of .6 is a typo and should be .06" I have a scheduled flight tomorrow, I'm thinking I'll pull the belly panel beforehand and lube the two limit switches. And look into getting new donuts. My annuals coming up in December so that'd be a good time to do them. Thanks for all the replies, guys
  11. Hmm. I don't have jacks, but the Mx manual says full fuel, weight on wheels. I'll be back out at the airport either later today or tomorrow and will take a look
  12. Interesting! Does your C have a squat switch? Maybe that's where the issue lies, and the logic thinks the gear is still down? Maybe it's a "gear unsafe" horn even though I don't have a light for it. I've been trying to find a wiring diagram for my plane but so far no joy. Looks like my donuts are from 1998. Might be time for a new set
  13. Yes I'm sure. When the "gear up" light eventually illuminates, the horn shuts up.
  14. Hello all, I'm hoping there's someone out there who's experienced something similar to my problem and can relay what their solution was. It used to be an intermittent issue, but now it happens nearly every time. I take off and put my (electric) gear up. I have a 74 F model with only 2 lights, green down and amber up. The amber up light will flicker but not remain lit, and the gear horn will start blaring. Weird thing is, pulling the gear horn CB does not shut it up. It will silence the horn when I have low power (below the microswitch in the throttle quadrant) with my gear up, though, so the CB does in fact work. I pulled the belly panel and pushed the gear up limit switch with my finger and had a friend watch the amber 'gear up' light, which did not illuminate. I also put my ohmmeter to it just for the heck of it and it checked out fine. Also to be clear, my gear is moving, evidenced by the floor sight glass and the fact that I can feel them swing. Sometimes like on my way home today, the amber 'gear up' light decided to come on halfway through the flight, and the blaring stopped. I've tried cycling the gear several times after takeoff, but this doesn't fix anything. I don't have jacks so I haven't been able to simulate this on the ground for troubleshooting, but I'm hoping someone else has some idea of where I should start. Thanks
  15. Sure why not. PM me and we'll get everything squared away
  16. Hello all, I just put in a Garmin EIS and have some gauges/a few other radios to get rid of. Figured I'd post here first before heading to Ebay or Barnstormers. All prices are OBO See attached pics Cluster gauges: includes both fuel quantities, oil pres and temp, and amps. cyl head temp is inop. LH fuel gauge was recently overhauled by Air Parts, can provide a copy of the 8130 if desired. Make offer for whole cluster or individual gauge(s) - SOLD KI 202 VOR/LOC indicator - no idea if it works, since the radio it was linked to was inop when I purchased the plane. No reason to think it doesn't, though, and it wasn't labeled inop. SOLD Combo fuel pres/manifold pres gauge - worked upon removal. Asking $200 Insight graphic engine monitor 602 - worked upon removal except #4 CHT didn't indicate. Probably just needed a new probe. I have the old probes (both EGT and CHT) I can throw in if you want, but they're tired looking, and I don't know which one was the #4 CHT. Comes with on/off button. Have install manual and pilots guide booklet. Asking $600 KNS 80 NAV system - inop when I bought the plane. I never bothered to fix it, and when I finally ripped it out, I found a broken wire while crawling under the panel. I'm guessing it was the power wire, so the thing probably would work if hooked up to power. This is probably only good for a parts radio anyways, as there's much better systems out there nowadays. Have wiring harness but no tray. Make offer
  17. Hello all, For those of you who've upgraded to a GI 275 Engine indication system, have you run into any issues with the fuel indications showing red x's on the instrument? I have the original resistance-type floats, and they worked/indicated just fine on the old gauges before I dove in to this project. I can go into the diagnostics page of the 275 and can see that the GEA24 is reading something, since it shows numbers there, and those numbers change when I stick my hand in the tank and physically move the float. (those numbers are small, though, like .1-.2) I have the system set to 0-5V, as instructed in the STC on page 3-18. I tried it in the resistance setting also, just for the heck of it, but still got red x's. I also measured the resistance at one of the outboard senders and moved it through its travel. Got 1-35ish ohms doing this, which is about right. I spliced in to the existing wires, and I got my wiring harnesses for the Garmin setup from Midwest Panel Builders (they built them for me), so I really don't think the wiring harness itself is wrong. I feel like my issue isn't my gauges, since they worked before. But I'm confused on why I can see readings in the diagnostics page but still get red x's on the default page. I'm aware Garmin put an alert out for resistance type floats, but the alert does not have anything to do with zero indications at all. Anyone run into anything similar? What was your fix? Ceis is 5 weeks out. On top of the extra cost that I don't want, grounding my plane for 5 weeks is not desirable. Thanks in advance
  18. This is all I have for now, but I'll swing by the hangar later today and get a better pic of the entire spinner
  19. Hello, I find myself needing to replace my spinner. I have a Hartzel 2 blade HC-C2YR-1BF prop on my M20F. If you or someone you know is selling one, please let me know! Would prefer polished. Also searching other places (ebay, etc)
  20. I guess I'm blind. I looked at least twice and used the search bar at least once. Maybe because I was putting the word "illustrated" in with it... Thanks
  21. Anyone have a copy of the IPC for a 1974 F model that they'd be willing to share? I looked in the downloads section and didn't see one. Thanks!
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