goalstop

Found a new one for $800 or so

Hartzell. 835-20

Idk. think it’s been there awhile. Just took it for its 100hr and the prop shop didn’t say anything about it. Just some faded paint and tiny oil streaks

Thanks! If anyone has a lead on a spinner, I’d appreciate it!

Hi all! We just got out to our plane to find a gorgeous and substantial crack in our spinner. No, don’t worry - we’re not attempting to fly it. 3 questions: 1) Any chance of repair? 2) Does anyone have a serviceable one lying around? 3) Possible to get a new one? Thanks!

Also repping the LZU Mooney crew! Good to see others around

I am leaning toward this answer. There is a point at which cutting my losses and turning the other cheek is the right way to proceed. As much as I'm frustrated by this all, I don't need any more headache and potential of things backfiring. I'm planning to do whatever is needed to cooperate with the investigation against the mechanic himself, get any sort of support from Garmin that I can, and leave it at that. I can also admit when I don't have a recourse with the shop (with the GPS money paid to the crook employee) and let it go... no point bashing my head against a wall.

Same person. Sorry for lack of clarity

Thank you all for your encouragement. A quick update - I learned today (according to the shop owner) that the head of maintenance "Intentionally sabotaged my ignition" and "was likely not putting in orders and blocking my calls" to delay the install. I feel really violated and believe that a lot of the issues I experienced (and paid to fix) over the past year were intentional I also paid the shop owner for the GPS because I had no other option. But I'm now out $15k+ for a combination of repairs I didn't expect to have to make and paying for a GPS a second time. Feels really terrible.

Correct - Georgia

What type of attorney is the right one for something like this?

Thanks so much Kyle for anything you can help with! will reach out shortly over email

I'll make this story short, since writing a whole essay might make my blood boil and is probably unnecessary. For more details on all the other issues along the way, see this thread New issue now: + Purchased GTN650xi directly from the manager of avionics at this Garmin certified avionics shop (late 2021) + Manager of avionics said "I can get the unit directly for you from Garmin without going through the shop, so you can avoid the shop markup". This was the major reason I decided to go with him (markup would have been ~20%) + A year later, and many many many issues with the rest of the install later (broken parts, cut wires, forgetting to order long lead time parts), I find out that the avionics manager has been stealing from his own shop by doing deals like this (over $100K of stolen items in total) + Shop owner checked his records, and turns out the avionics manager invoiced my GTN directly to the shop instead of paying for it himself + Now, shop owner's insurance wants me to give the unit back to the shop since I'm "in possession of stolen property" So now, I haven't flown in almost a year, have a contested GPS unit, and feel like I have nobody to help me... not enough to justify getting a lawyer for this, but still a LOT of money to me... any suggestions on things to do would be greatly appreciated Thank you!

Also here’s the pic of my Airtex install ragedracer-those look sharp!

1964 M20E Volts were fluctuating from 14.5-15.1 while engine was operating. Led to nasty dimming of the lights on a 1-2 second interval Didn’t work: re-soldering transistor in dimmer panel, replacing corroded master contacter, replacing master switch Did work: cleaning contacts on voltage regulator ground & power wires Thought I’d leave this here for the next guy Check those contacts before doing expensive stuff!!

I don't have a pic, but I did an AirTex install on my E-model - full leather, lots of structure to the seats, fits perfectly like a glove. All-in (including install) was 5 AMU, and would have been 4 if I'd used fake leather or 2.5 if I'd installed myself (I'm not handy enough). Installer used some extra foam to make it fully structured I'd be very surprised if you could fit anything resembling a Porsche seat in an M20

Lol! All good questions transponder - there wasn’t room in the center stack because of a structural beam behind the top of the stack. Normally have a copilot to push the buttons anyway. That was the best spot for it to fit what’s behind the panel STEC is plenty easy to use and out of the way down there. Don’t think it requires a disconnect on the yoke (was never there to start). Adding it to the panel just would’ve crowded it and taken a space for a future gizmo circuit breaker - didn’t think of it. Whatever

...and because I can't resist at least posting an "almost" finished picture...

13 months and many AMUs into the panel overhaul + annual (10 of those months not flying at all), on the VERY DAY I'm supposed to take delivery and fly her... The master contactor relay is sticking open. It was just replaced. Battery is brand new. All the wiring in the plane is brand new... Mechanic does a thorough check for grounding issues. No issues in the wiring. Isolates the starter - turns out there's a failed ground inside my starter So now I'm replacing the starter for an ElectroAir, and putting a new lock on the door for a bit of safety Hopefully just a day's delay, not another month Posting in case anyone else comes across a similar issue Just another day... know not to keep my hopes up too much. Aircraft ownership has meant significantly less flight time vs renting for me...

The middle one I think if that helps? My mechanic did it… I forget exactly what he said

For once, I think I may be able to contribute something to the forum! I had the same problem in my E model. The fluctuating varied with engine RPM, at around a 1-3 second interval at cruise. All my interior lights were affected, but not my GPS/G5/etc. First, I thought the master switch might be a problem... and if you have a split switch, it may be, but in my M20E it's a single switch. Check out Don Maxwell's article here: https://www.donmaxwell.com/fluctuating-ammeters. I tried replacing it anyway, but to no avail. Next, we re-soldered one of the transistors. Mechanic said it had a bad connection and this should fix the issue. We also replaced the master battery solenoid, which had corroded and stuck open (don't think that was the issue, but we needed to replace it anyway) Flying Friday to test the fix, and will report findings

Just swapped my right wing light assembly + tail light for all-LED, which means I now have everything I took off: + Right Grimes Nav/Anticollision assembly with flash-tube strobe and green LED bulb + Whelen Strobe power pack + Tail light - probably the OEM one that came with the aircraft Asking $300 for all 3, $150 for the right assembly, $200 for the strobe pack, $100 for the tail light if separately. I'll split ground shipping 50/50 with you, and I'll make sure you're able to install and confirm it works before cashing a check (if somehow something is totally defective, we'll just both be out the shipping). All worked when they were removed, although the strobe was intermittent / worked about half the time, likely because of a poor / faulty electrical connection. They're all still at my mechanic right now... will have access in about a week, or I can ask my mechanic to send them directly (hence no pics right now). Can get pics if interested. I'll make another separate post, but I also have a bunch of old Mooney gauges, a KX-170b + indicator, an attitude indicator and heading indicator, and some other sundry parts & materials from my recent avionics overhaul. Again, happy to get pics and details if interested... but they're in the hangar and I've been busy lately Cheers, Goalstop

Yep it was hot after a 10min warmup, but still no flying for awhile. I called up the shop that overhauled the engine 2 years ago, told him how it was operating, and the compressions, and he basically said “that’s super common if you haven’t flown in awhile, plus the cylinders are overhauled but still old cylinders. I’m not concerned, go fly another 50 hours till oil change and if compressions are still low do a borescope”

Wooooah no that would give me a heart attack. All cylinders stay within 50* EGT of each other pretty consistently. CHT's stay around 325-350*, no more, during LOP cruise and peak. I also haven't started her up in 5 months. But things were running perfectly with zero fluctuations when I dropped her off at the shop in July

Mechanic said it’s coming out of the exhaust. Cams and valves are fine. Which is worse?