Joshua Blackh4t

I really like my av-30, I have the tailbeaconx so I also use it as a transponder control. But now I also need to update software. So AV link, can be bought and installed temporarily or 'temporarily'. However, since it will soon be certified (apparently this year) its a bit of a bad time to buy one. So I just ordered the D subs to make the cable. I probably should have got the upgrade plug fitted, but not hard to unplug/replug occasionally. Yay for avionics access panel on E models Have definitely considered leaving an experimental Avlink in place, but instead I will be legal and fiddle with plugs and every time increase chances of not tightening properly or something.

Thanks everyone, My mechanic cleaned the contacts and thinks that was all that was wrong with her. I'll have a look at the rest of the wiring when i pick her up. My mechanic seems to think the flyback diode was incorrectly installed. Not sure why. In any case, apparently its all working now, yay. Thanks for the link, looks like the part.

Yesterday I almost get stranded on another airport when my M20E wouldn't turn over. I assumed the starter motor was worn out but after some checking it turned out to be the starter solenoid and a couple of well placed firm taps made it work enough to get me home. Yay for good old mechanical things. However, when trouble shooting it, I came across a wire which seems to go from the solenoid exciter to earth. Which doesn't make sense. Can anyone explain this? Photos attached

We had a similar issue at the grass strip I operate out of. We maintained it well and mowed a big wide strip and then the farmer who owns the place used it as a road. So we now have a narrower main strip, a flyover section of uncut grass and a single track for cars to drive past. You might be able to do a similar thing, make the actual runway as narrow as legal, use the flyover space to give walkers a separate pathway that they can stay on while you land. Then a few polite signs to stay off the main runway especially at any time there is an aircraft in operation or expected to be operating. Add in a polite note that it is a legal requirement for the runway to be 100% clear for any operations so anyone on the runway is creating an issue even if they are out of the way. (Not quite factual but doesn't have to be) Hopefully that helps.

Well, that changes everything. I hadn't seen any mention of it in the specs and it was something I was specially looking for. So maybe they are back on the possible list for me. Mainly for passengers, also a backup in case. Thanks, please ignore previous ignorant comments on Lightspeed. Btw, the DCs need to be pressed every time as well. Also, has to be in the order of "turn on, turn bluetooth on, connect bluetooth, then press once to turn off ducking" Bose has the mix switch that stays on. I just prefer the DC for comfort and the noise cancelling. Bose has more white noise. Maybe the A30s solved it.

Yep, Australia here. Huge bit of class G in the middle. Even home on the south east coast, there's still a lot of it. Class E is closing in but even in class E I still don't need to pay much attention to the radio. Its handy to hear the chatter just confirm I'm on the right frequency. So music up and relax. Don't want lightspeed continually changing the volume so no go for me.

Ha, you may be right. But I mean when in isolated class G and all calls are far away and you only need a listening watch just to hear if anything interesting might be happening.

Looking at the specs, I wouldn't buy a lightspeed simply because you can't turn off the ducking of the music. As in, it keeps lowering the volune every time some idiot passenger breathes too loudly. If I need to be talking to atc I turn it down manually, not very difficult. On Bose and DC you can have it full on or auto ducking.

I mean a 'cold' engine one 45 C day.

Except in very hot conditions where the engine bay temp is hot enough to vapourise the fuel straight away and it gets flooded in a few seconds. Or I think thats what happened to me. I try to crank directly after priming now.

There was one for sale in the classified section a while ago, might be worth looking at

Ok, fair, but I'm sure I'd notice if I started to touch the brakes on take off. They aren't agressive enough to cause a loss of control, just a minor delay in acceleration. On landing it is easy to accidentally be holding them on, and could cause a blow out with not much warning. So I'll stand by my position that if I can taxi to the runway, I already have my feet in the right spot to take off and to tap if needed. It helps that 90% of time I fly in socks/bare feet.

Curious, I understand being conscious of not braking on landing, but it I didn't think it was a factor on take off. I prefer to be able to brake quickly in case of an aborted take off which then makes tapping easy.

If I hear mine then I tap them. Just to make sure the noise stops and it isn't a sign of anything going wrong. Also, I use a scientific calculator app. But I still have my old high school calculator for when I need to work with some figures written on my phone.

I added an FS450 a year ago or so. Tbh, not a huge fan, although just having the fuel flow has made a big impact on how I fly. I have it linked to my Aera for the fuel planning and it seems to work well. I like to set it on reserve and that way I know if I've picked up headwinds, or if a chosen level can be improved. However the FS450 regularly return to the USD display by itself. Curiously, it won't be like I've set it there, it will have the led flashing and reverts back to Reserve as soon as I press either button. Does anyone know whats causing it and how I can stop it? Thanks

Can't recall hitting stops in my E and I practice short landings occasionally. Come in at V = just above feeling mushy (about 65kts over the fence, normally) However, she does like her combined aileron and rudder, so maybe thats why I never hit the stops.

Depends on how soon you get it replaced and what you are comfortable with. You could potentially hardwire the 430 pins at the panel. That would get you a functional radio until it got upgraded.

My E had ring tie downs that were bent from people trying to use them for jacking points. The thread was finer than the Lasar ones, so I bought new stainless steel bolts and machined the heads to fit into the lasar jacking collars.

As for being out of rig, its a simple procedure to modify the aileron trim. The poh says to bend the trailing edge of the aileron, but I ended up adding a trim tab. After a few trial settings, it got it flying nicely. Also check the ailerons haven't already been bent and are causing the problem.

I fly pretty regularly so I normally ignore it. I'll find out in an hour when I switch and with the low risk, thats fine. If i've been outside in rain I might do a left and right check but I don't think it will prove much because it still will be on fuel in the line the whole way to take off. I generally set it to left tank in case I start 2nd guessing if I changed. That way I can remember that I Left on the Left.

There is structural and structural. Obviously Stringers are structural, they are the structure that holds the skin. And they stop the skin deforming when the skin is a structural component. However, as far out as that dent is, its value is much less and someone who is more of an engineer than me could well say its fine. Also, with the nil damage to the rib, its possible that it can be simply pulled, panel beaten and filled. I have repaired a similar dent in an ultralight and just cut out the section and pop riveted in a doubler and a patch. All in accordance with the FAA guide and that was way closer to the fuselage. With the low level of damage, I would personally be comfortable ferrying it and would not object to a patching solution if a mechanic agreed to sign it off. Obviously the new skin would be nicer and would have better resale, but you could also be opening a can of worms. Plus one to giving it a good corrosion treatment. Also, learn the high risk spots and keep applying it. I do my wheel wells with acf 50 normally whenever I do an oil change. And whenever I feel like it. And do the hinge bolts and links and whatever looks like it would be happier when sprayed.

The problem is, is the silicone better in ALL ways. Sure, it might be more heat resistant, stronger, more flexible and many many more. But it only has to fail in one way for it to be not suitable. When I compare it to plastic intakes on cars, I would need a new part to have similar fail characteristics. So no matter how it cracks, is damaged, or downright cut in half, it still can't block the intake. I'd make a suggestion that if its of one material, maybe each 2nd ring should be thicker so it will stay structurally stable even when the thinner ring cracks. Then we can all argue about OPPs and what happened with downblocks. Although, if its 3d printed, the file could be shared (at a price) so anyone can make one

On my 65 E, they are controlled by an overhead knob, and yes its slightly confusing. It looks like one knob for each overhead, but actually its one for the overheads and one for panel lights.

One of the Garmin vfr data fields can show VSR (vertical speed required) to any airport in its database. I have it on all the time to familiarise different combinations of speeds, angles and configurations. Makes approaches way easier at night with no papi or other guidance. Its one of the most useful things there is. I have it next to gps vertical speed and when the 2 match, I'm on a smooth descent to runway. Can also set it for descent to over the airfield/before the airfield. Also it shows centrelines if available. So stick on the centreline with a 500fpm vertical required and it should put you on the ground. In any case, its a tragic accident.

I have a new hero...