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N56394

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Posts posted by N56394

  1. Hi everyone,

    Just doing some research about where to get annuals done in Arizona... the Mooney website listed the shop in Chandler AZ, and Lone Mountain Aviation in Henderson, NV.

    I could not get a basic annual estimate out of Chandler over the phone as the mech was out. Lone Mountain quotes 26 hrs ($3692) which seems pricey compared to what I pay now in OR ($1800). I did not call the local Prescott, AZ airport shops as I am not familiar. I thought I would ask the community for any recommendations. Thank you, John  PS I did search the site and didn't come up with much recent info on shops in AZ. (Apologies if I missed that as my search skills are average)

  2. I flew for years in Mooney's with fixed shoulder harnesses - it really was not much of an issue with loosening to reach things. When it was time to replace them in my 83J/Missile I went with the AmSafe inertia reels on both sides and I really like the install. The freedom of movement I now have makes a difference and I am no longer even thinking of the restraint. I like it when a system works well and you don't even know it is there. Based on comments I think the sweet spot is to install the fixed on the copilot side though for ease of getting in and out of the back seats. I guess the answer is if you fly alone or with a person up front only then I would recommend the reels for both sides... if frequently having people get in and out of the back it is noticeable and I have had to remind passengers to watch out for the reel cause it sticks out a bit. AmSafe also makes the GA airbag restraints and has an STC for many makes and models. They also make the airbag systems on airliners and those systems are only installed when the occupant injury pass/fail requirements cannot be met by a normal restraint. Premium airline seating is a challenge to pass the head injury requirements, so you tend to see the airbag systems and shoulder harnesses. The issue of an airbag being safer than a shoulder harness alone it an it depends one... As an engineer that reviews the test results from the airline testing, I have seen that in some cases the airbags work well to protect the occupant. In a GA setting a shoulder harness with a strong anchor should be adequate to prevent injuries from severe head contact. Keep in mind also that the airbag systems are a threshold device that only fires when a certain impact severity is reached, while a shoulder harness works at mostly any impact level. (well, if you have the reels, it is when they lock up and that is a pretty low level). Years ago the FAA put out a notice that encouraged all GA planes to install shoulder harnesses, if you have not done this, I recommend you do. Happy Flying! 

    • Like 1
  3. I had my 1983 J converted in 2000, standard tanks, vacuum speed brakes mostly original panel. - everything else aside, the thing I have to watch out for is the forward CG limit. I have experienced the same issues as noted above for exhaust and engine mount. Pulled one cylinder at about 350hrs. This may have been related to thermal cycling as I did my instrument rating in it shortly after 9/11. Until August this year I had always run 75 ROP - now have GAMIs and am running at 50-75 LOP and seeing cooler cyl temps. In October I took my son to visit ERAU Prescott. I had him ride in the back to keep in cg envelope with full fuel. Temps pretty even now with GAMIs, but cyl. #1 and #2 egt's about 80 deg. cooler than others. I think this is just from the induction setup of the IO550A. At 8500 to 10500 ft, flowing around 11-12 GPH, EGT 1430-1510, CYL 330-360 deg, WOT, 2350 RPM, 165-170KTAS. The 550 and the 3 blade makes for a very smooth running powerplant. For SL full power take-off FF is 29+ GPH. The climb is great in the Missile - I reduce power to 25" and 2550 RPM during climb I add in MP to keep at 25 - I have to lean a bit to keep engine smooth flow in low 20 gphs- about 1300-1350 egts keeps cyl around 380 target temp at 120KTS. I have always suspected my setup is on the rich side, and did a climb to 14k and data confirms I am above the IO550 flow corridor for the alt comp fuel pump- hence the need to lean a little. Once I do initial leaning on climb, I am set until cruise. In winter I have noticed oil temps on the cool side, and being in Seattle area I have not experienced the hot issues on the ground but lean aggressively for ground ops.

    • Like 2
  4. 15 hours ago, r0ckst4r said:

     

    I also went the bullet LED route and it was easy and works great.  I was missing the stupid metal clip that held my old lights in and they were literally RTV'd in place.  So I was glad to get rid of that crap and the new lights mounted easily by design.  And as for the brightness, I think you are on to something with having overly bright recog lights that can obscure the nav lights.  It has been mentioned, either earlier in this thread, or in other threads, if you want bright lights so people can see you there is nothing better than LED landing and taxi lights that you can leave on.  If you have that, these recognition lights are essentially obsolete and are just cosmetic at this point.  So it goes to follow that just matching the brightness of the factory light should be the goal.

     

    BTW.  I do love the idea of having the lights red/green to match the nav lights but I think my hangar elves have pushed the boundaries far enough lol.  Something like that would most certainly draw some unwanted attention at next annual.

    Right! I spent a lot of time on this site looking at rectangular recon strobe packs... but most are multicolored and I do not want my Mooney to look like a police vehicle - after all, I am not that far from Seattle!

     https://www.extremetacticaldynamics.com/grille-and-surface-mount-led-lights/

  5. 21 hours ago, N56394 said:

    We have a sunny day in western WA today - should be coming your way soon!

    I have not tried any yet... I have a pack of 20 - of these coming later today - maybe will try for recog light also... will have extras as I will only need like 8 to 10 max.

    4198Mk3%2BmSL._AC_.jpg

    SPECIFICATION:

    1.Voltage: DC 12V

    2.Number of Bulbs: 20 PCS

    3.LED Color: white (6500K)

    4.LED Type: 5050 chips SMD

    5.Cross Reference: BA9S T11 T4W 53 57 182 257 363 430 615 756 1445 1155 1815 1816 1819 1895 1889 1891 1892 1893 1895 6253 12814 12929 17053 182 1889 1895A 216 293 430 3886X 3893 6253 64111 64113 64115 233 257 12814 12929 (For Reference Only)

    6.Application: Interior Light,such as Dome Light,Map light , License light, Corner light, Reading light,etc..

    These bulbs arrived last night and I had my son pop em in to the overheads. They work on the 7.5v dim setting, but when switched to bright there is no perceivable difference in output. the output appears to be comparable to the 1816 oem bulb. These won't be bright enough for the recog - I think the 1816 is like a 4w and the ERR projector is a 25w halogen. 

  6. 22 minutes ago, bmcconnaha said:

    I wish I wasn’t in Idaho this morning.... it’s snowing :angry:

    what other brand of LEDs did you try? 

    We have a sunny day in western WA today - should be coming your way soon!

    I have not tried any yet... I have a pack of 20 - of these coming later today - maybe will try for recog light also... will have extras as I will only need like 8 to 10 max.

    4198Mk3%2BmSL._AC_.jpg

    SPECIFICATION:

    1.Voltage: DC 12V

    2.Number of Bulbs: 20 PCS

    3.LED Color: white (6500K)

    4.LED Type: 5050 chips SMD

    5.Cross Reference: BA9S T11 T4W 53 57 182 257 363 430 615 756 1445 1155 1815 1816 1819 1895 1889 1891 1892 1893 1895 6253 12814 12929 17053 182 1889 1895A 216 293 430 3886X 3893 6253 64111 64113 64115 233 257 12814 12929 (For Reference Only)

    6.Application: Interior Light,such as Dome Light,Map light , License light, Corner light, Reading light,etc..

  7. According to the Aerolites specs the low voltage cutout is 8v or 16.5v on those bulbs. So at least my 12v dim setting of 7.5v would not work. I bought a pack of 20 bulbs from another source that are different design - we'll see if they work at the low setting. I think it is a great idea for the red lights though... maybe I will install some red bulbs in the forward overhead that will work on the dim setting - red only on dim, red and white on bright... I had a followup thought - the 7.5v dim setting is when my engine is not running... so when engine is running the voltage bumps up to like 13.6+ volts... this may just be enough to bring the dim setting over 8v low voltage cutoff... its worth a try.

  8. I am trying an LED replacement for my interior lights that are in the overhead - I have the dim and bright switch (7.5v/12v) dunno how the LED will work out yet at the lower voltage...and these LED bulbs may work out for the recog too - not sure yet - I will compare and post if better. I do think it is possible to go too bright with the recogs though - I don't know if the debate about drowning out the nav lights has happened...I would imagine there is a strong case for more light being better, but it would be safe to match the 25w halogen OEM bulb output. There was quite the discussion on light intensity - I don't want to do a science project on this  - I think the Bullet LED is pretty close to the halogen and am interested in any suggestions to take more pictures - maybe from a longer distance - or a short video cycling through the various lights... I think opinions of actual observations would be best as it is hard to photograph this level of light... I may send out an invite to the neighbors to have a viewing party and then discuss with adult beverages... and 6 feet apart of course, ugh!

    • Like 1
  9. Okay finally dry night here in Seattle area so I pulled plane out and took some picts - I can see the LED looks to be a bit dimmer than the halogen now. As a comparison, I also turned on the NAVs which look to be similar brightness. This is an interesting project for sure. Lots of options to solve the LED upgrade, but none universal or turnkey I am afraid. I did order a new projector bulb for $9 and will experiment with cutting it down to fit. For now the Bullet LED does seem to do the trick though and is an easy mod.

    Navs on nighttime.jpg

    Recogs on nighttime.jpg

  10. I wish every day of flying could be like this! Just done with annual. Nov 1st South of Seattle area, looking out the front at Mt. Rainier, St Helens and Adams, off the wing is Mt. Hood. a bit of a tail wind, 200kt gs at 7500 ft Missile sipping about 12.5 gph - happy Flying, Stay safe.. working on LED light replacements now for landing lights, NAV, beacon Aerolites ultra G2 and Navmax, and recog. I did a post on initial installation of Bullet LED for recogs. (Hangar Elves came early this year)

    20201101_140726.jpg

    20201101_140733.jpg

    • Like 2
  11. First I want to say a big thank you for ALL of the hard work that everyone is putting into this recog issue. One of my lights burned out so I was looking for replacements. The best I could find was the bulb that Whelen sells for over $200 each! https://flywat.com/products/7030300 - ugh! not even LED...

    I have an 83J Missile 12V and looked through this thread and others and wanted the simplest way to do an LED setup. After spending a few hours on the internet looking for anything that might fit, I chose the Crazed Pilot Bullet LEDs. I will post pictures soon if I am happy with the overall results of install, brightness, etc. Initial test in dark hangar seem to show the LED is bright enough. It is a pure white light compared to the yellow white of the halogen bulb.

    I put out some tools and parts and some basic instructions for the hangar elves and let them go to work...

    Tools required: screw driver, wire cutter, brad setter (or nail), hacksaw, wrench, wire crimps.

    Parts required: Crazed pilot Bullet LEDs, washers for back of reflectors, wire connectors, zip ties. ~$20

    Time per side: About 30 mins. (took about an hour total trying various ways to attach the LED then went with existing reflector.)

    The easiest way to install the Bullet LED is to mount it into the existing reflector. Remove clear fairing and screws that attach the light bracket to gain access to the reflector bulb. (I recalled that the NAV light lens is glass and was careful not to drop it!) Remove the existing bulb/reflector from the square mounting hole. Cut off the wires (wire cutters) flush with the back of the square part of the bulb/reflector. Drive down the bulb pins into the reflector (brad setter) and then pull out the bulb from the front of the reflector. Cut off about half of the square part of the reflector (hacksaw). The Bullet LED fits nicely in the reflector using a washer on the square back side. Test the existing wires for polarity and connect the wires, zip tie excess wire and reinstall the bracket and fairing. 

    I will update with photos soon, it was blowing and rainy last night so I did not pull the plane out for light tests...

    Thank you again and Cheers!

    • Like 2
  12. Yes, I reduced power to a cruise climb of 115 kts, 25 MAP and 2550 RPM so fuel flow is reduced. I only use max power for initial take off to about 1000 AGL from sea level.  As I climb, I add back in throttle to keep 25 MAP until WOT, then monitor temps until cruise alt. Heading out this afternoon to do a climb and will report FF vs alt at full rich.

  13. I have the Electronics International FF and I set the K factor long ago (once I messed it up by changing to imperial gallons, ugh). I am confident that my flow numbers are good. filled my tanks several times and came out within a gallon between the pump and the FF.

    Yesterday's flight data.

    466 MSL take-off, 29.5 GPH full rich, WOT, 2700 RPM. climb to

    1500 MSL climb, 22.8 GPH full rich, 25 MAP, 2550 RPM, 115 kts. EGTs approximately 1300, CHTs approximately 380.

    could not do a full climb to get fuel pump leaning numbers will do when not so many clouds, lol

    I ordered the GAMIs to fix my lean cyl 1 and 2. 

    Cheers.

    • Like 1
  14. I'm convinced that the 71 arm is correct for the aux tank for the missile if the tank cap is just aft of the spar. I went out to the airplane and taped the main and from the diagram in my link from emapa I taped the aux tank. I estimated where the 48 arm would be for the main tank and then put a 2 foot level to see about where the 71 arm would be - yes it turns out to be at where I would guess the CG of the aux tank would be. I would double check your records to be certain. It is possible you all have different tanks, but can't hurt to double check. 

    20200825_152516.jpg

    20200825_152206.jpg

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