bmcconnaha

its not just parts prices that make me want to go experimental on my next airplane (most likely a lancair ES, or RV10). I really enjoy working on my airplanes, and believe i would like the building process. but, coming back to the parts pricing... one of the reasons i bought a Mooney over a Comanche was the fact parts were still available. My best pal has a comanche, and i believe his airplane is better supported in a lot of ways (which is crazy, they have been out of production for 50 years). i see the parts he purchases from places like webco, and they seem considerably less expensive than buying mooney parts.

i stated i had sourced a used one for now in one of my previous replies. Its better than the one i have for now. i do like that parts manual better than the J one i have. that diagram is much better detailed on the gear doors.

the parts manual list the same rod i bet as in your F. Its welded on one side, and doesnt list the required hardware. the washer is a thin washer i needed to align the engine in the cowl. i was in between not having a washer on there, and one of the thicker ones that come with the lord mounts. painted and stamped with a mooney part number.

easier said then done. I am very particular about my maint, and want to participate in it very hands on. i want to do most of the work on my annual, and have the IA around to isspect and sign off, and do any work i am not comfortable with. I dont have any local mooney guys at all. my mechanic and i have a decent relationship, but for whatever reason he didnt want to make the rod. I probably should have fought that a little harder with him.. i should have started 4 airplanes ago was logging my time working on them with various a&ps and been working towards taking my a&p test.

where can we source the sheet metal parts for less? i am all ears. he wouldnt do an owner produced part on a part that is still available from the factory ( gear door rod for example) i bought a used one, its slightly better than the one i pulled off to hold be over until the other one shows.

I would have bought a missile conversion instead of the 390 I ultimately ended up buying…. One major problem tho…..doesn’t exist any longer. also, no motor mount or cowling changes required. And the 390 cost less at that time than the 360 did. True, I did buy a prop, but mine was worn out anyways. It’s not a missile, but it works well.

So, I have done most of what you’re recommending. I turned my 110k 1990 J into a 310k project real fast (after interior, avionics and autopilot) All in all, it’s been an amazing ride, and I do love my J. But, I’m so tired of Mooney parts pricing, I can’t fathom doing it again. I’ve spent thousands in little Micky mouse crap. Here is some of the recents: exhaust cavity: close to 800 main gear door rod: 705 shim for engine mount (just a washer basically) 120 door sill aluminum almost 400. And the list goes on and on…. It’s getting harder every part I buy not to move to an RV10. Not a bash by any means, but I certainly am tired of parts pricing and or lack of availability and support from the factory. Maybe they could look into getting us some no back springs for plessy actuators.

If I couldn't find an eletronic wrench, I was going to do it that way.

Thanks John, I ended up with a Quinn electronic torque wrench. It has a peak hold, and as I get into the 200 inch lbs range I just slowly let the torque creep up. Usually can get three measurements very close to each other. Interesting about snap on. I buy the ratchet screwdriver snap on sells from the maker of them, Williams.

Manual on my wrench says to get the accurate torque, it has be gripped in the center of the grip. In fact, it even has a line where to grip it. Either way, the electronic wrench with a peak hold works flawless for checking the gear over center.

Frankly, 700 for that part is insanity. I was surprised to hear that today.

I heard the ATF trick from someone today, I’ll give that a shot as well. This rod has a welded end, unfortunately

Trying that tonight, my IA has some

I have a sticky rod end on my gears doors. Mooney wants $700 for a new rod. I’m trying to get this one freed up. Anyone have any tricks? I tried both triflow and LPS2, no real change. thanks!

I used a silicone spray lube, same as I used for the yoke shafts on the rollers. Haven’t put them Back in yet to see if any improvement in the roll. Rollers roll pretty freely in the seat, but was pretty stiff to roll in the rails

Sold

I'd never go back to incandescent. I went with another Whelen, the new G3. Although this one was plenty bright

Maybe someone else can chime in, but I think those are PA36

Wing or cowling mount?

Used for just over a year in my J. Plus shipping. Bryan

Yikes, I hope we're not making a mistake. My usual SC couldn't work with my schedule this year, and I am working through an owner assisted annual, one of the nose gear springs is ever so slightly out of spec , and one of the mains over center was light and not within the 10 inch pounds of the other MLG that is required in the manual. It seems easy enough to adjust. Manual says nose first, then the mains. Recheck the nose. Verify mains don't take over 325 inch pounds after electric extension.

Thanks guys, appreciate it

In the MM it calls for a ten inch torque wrench. I had a hard time finding a ten inch wrench that would do the required inch lbs. I found a Quinn electronic torque wrench with a peak hold feature that I like. I've checked my gear tentions per the manual, and got 235 inch lbs on the right gear, and 265 on the left. Also my right spring on the nose is a little long, so I have some adjustments to make, but wanted to get some opinions on the torque wrench length before I do anything. I know most torque wrenches are lenth dependandant, and the one I bought is. It has a mark on the handle where you are supposed to grip it at. So, will a longer wrench affect the reading? What order would you adjust the gear in? Nose first and then mains, or get the mains first and then the nose? I can't find that in the manual, it has you check the nose first and then the mains, but has you recheck the nose gear after adjustment to the mains. Thank you!

Yes, in most cases it is a slide in replacement. Same tray. If you have a garmin 345, one wire for ads b weather would need to be be changed pins. You’re welcome to shoot me a PM and I can get you current pricing. Bryan @avionics source/Boxwell avionics

update on this. I didnt go with the SOARS kit when i redid my interior, i had the belts re webbed. they arent done very well. too long, etc. so, i am still considering them. airplane is going down for an annual next week, and i plan on addressing the belts in some way. anyone have any updates on these? especially on the install....