Ross Statham

Hey gang, meant to update you guys on this a few weeks ago-- dropped the price to $149,900....Ross

Hey gang, I'm selling my 1978 201, N6201Y. It has a recently overhauled engine and scimitar two blade prop (overhaul completed last Fall). Getting this posting done early for you guys- I will be editing this page over the next few days with better details, but here are some basics: 4225 hours on the airframe October 2022 Annual inspection, completion of engine rebuild and completion of propeller overhaul IFR certified in 2019 46 hours on the rebuilt engine and Hartzell propeller Garmin GNS 650W with Mode S option (ADSB out) ADSB In via Stratus unit included with the sale Garmin 430W tied to above unit and tied to a Garmin 106A glide slope King KFC flight director and two-axis autoilot with GPSS roll steering tied to 650W JPI EDM 900 Primary Flight Instrument (fuel pressure gauge is inoperative) Working brow lights with dimmers Garmin GTS 33ES transponder tied to above GNS 650W Repainted in 2018 by Hawk Aviation in Tampa- I'd give the paint a "9" New leather interior in 2015 New muffler in 2016 New alternator in 2019 New battery in November 2022 Propeller dynamically balanced in November 2022 (really smoothed things out!!) Replaced brow light bulbs November 2022 Rosen visors 978 pound useful load I've owned her for five years. She ALWAYS been hangared and well maintained. Repainted in 2018 by Hawk Aviation in Tampa, who did their usual superb job. I would rate the paint today a 9, the interior was re-done in 2015 with beige leather and new carpets; I'd rate it an 8, with beige leather seats (no rips) but the plastic on the ceiling is starting to get brittle. Great Century II autopilot with altitude hold and add-on GPSS roll steering flies approaches like a champ, but no altitude pre-select. Major avionics upgrade in 2015 to include ADSB. Engine is the fuel injected IO-360-A3B6D 200HP (2000 Hour TBO). New muffler in 2016, new biscuits in 2020, new alternator, new high energy starter, new high power LED landing light, new LED wingtip navigation lights and bright LED "strobes", rebuilt Hartzell Scimitar prop and new tires installed in July 2021. Tempest Firewire plugs, all ADs complied with. Rosen visors, new seatbelts and front shoulder harnesses in 2015. New foam in seats also during 2015 interior refurb. ADS-B in and out; dual WAAS GPS NAV COMM (Garmin 650W and Garmin 430W). Damage History: January 2020 gear-up landing. No framing members were damaged, aircraft was professionally re-skinned, propeller replaced, landing gear disassembled and re-swung; engine re-assembled as described in aircraft and engine logs below by Richard Cam at Aeroquest. I loaned the plane to a CFI friend in early 2022, who had a prop strike (!!), and it was decided to do a complete engine re-build, which was completed in October 2022. The engine break-in with mineral oil just completed; I'm doing an oil change on her before I sell her. (The photos were taken before I had the propeller rebuilt, which included a repaint with new decals. Ignore the wear marks on leading edges of the propeller in the photos.) the prop!) The airplane is a superb cross-country airplane, with realistic flight planning at 150 knots airspeed at 10 gallons per hour and a 60 gallon fuel tank. Engine runs superbly. Aircraft is hangar based at the Tri-County Airport in western Florida, KBCR. My cell phone is (770) 329-5400, email is stathamross@gmail.com. I'm on Central time (Florida panhandle).

Got a message asking for details about the replacement fuse. Here are the details: Ordered from https://www.newark.com, SKU 19K5343. They show it as an Eaton Electronics manufacturer part number GMW-5. I paid $20.02 plus shipping. Hope this helps, y'all!.....Ross

Found the blown fuse, after looking three days. They’d been moved. Once we found the transistors they were protecting, fuses were mounted upside down close by. Ordered a fuse and a spare from Newark Electronics, who had a decent price. $20 each plus shipping. Thanks again everyone! Ross

Thanks guys! I priced those fuses yesterday. No kidding. This morning my buddy and I are on the hunt. He’s a retired electronics genius and pilot, spent a career as a troubleshooter. I forwarded this thread last night. Ross

Thanks! I’ll be at the hangar first thing in the am!!….Ross

Aaaaaaahhhhh ! Thanks will try in the am. Ross

Sorry if this one has been answered before, but does anyone in the brain trust know where the fuse is for the brow lights for a 1978 20J? I was replacing one of the bulbs and apparently shorted things out. Breaker is intact but circuit is dark. According to the schematic, there is also a fuse in the circuit. I have been unable to locate it so far, and if any of you smart folks know where it is, I’d be most appreciative. I took the glareshield off so that I could better deal with the bulbs, and it is definitely not there. Nor can I see it close to the pot either. ideas?

Hey gang, Yesterday I took my 201 to Marianna Florida (about a twenty minute ride, by the way) and had the rebuilt prop dynamically balanced by Neville Aviation. (They were referred to me by the prop shop.) There was an appreciable (way more than just "noticeable") reduction in the vibration since then. Thought I'd give you guys some details, and of course, some of you might want to share your thoughts and comments here as well. The process was extremely interesting and they did a great job of explaining things-- I had noticed during initial engine break in at 65% power that the vibration was worst at 2400 RPM, so of course, that's the speed we used to measure and "fix". The fix for mine was pretty interesting; one of the Hartzelle scimitar blades had two thin weights on it that the prop shop had used to static balance the rebuilt prop, the other blade had none. After running and measuring, we added weight as the computer indicated and got the prop "better", but Lee at Neville eventually took one of those static weights off, and added a VERY small weight in another position (a bolt and small washer strategically placed) which really did the trick. The only difficulty we had during the process was in positioning the airplane to properly read the reflective tape while sitting out on the ramp. No big deal. I had never wanted to spent the money on that before, but with a rebuilt engine and prop I thought it prudent to see if we could smooth out most of the vibration. Took a while to set it up and measure, and the actual balancing steps were simple addition and removal of weight. But these guys also work on helicopters rotor balance (these guys are former Army and Air Force aviation) and their rotor blade balance expertise showed. MUCH smoother climb and cruise at all settings when they finished two hours later. Since I know you’re going to ask, the cost was $400, which was more than I wanted to spend for two hours labor, but then, I realized I wasn't paying for labor, I was paying for their equipment and expertise. Oh, and in case some of you may be wondering why I had an engine rebuild (I only had 1050 hours on the engine), you may remember that last year I had loaned my airplane to a young CFII who wanted to get some more "complex" hours so he could get a job with the airlines, I had loaned him my plane provided he get on my insurance, and he reported that he had a "very light" prop strike in an airport in the other end of the state. Of course, in digging into it later we found out that it was not what he reported, and I had to do a full tear-down rebuild on the engine. Plane was down for over ten months, mostly waiting on the engine case shop in Tulsa. (No good deed shall go unpunished, right?.....)

Hey all, This upcoming July my wife and I are planning a vacation trip to Spokane and northern Idaho. Unfortunately we're having to fly out commercial-- she can't do long multi-day flights in our 201 anymore. I'd like to connect with any Mooney owners in eastern Washington or northern Idaho now to discuss flying in that area-- I may end up having to rent a Cessna 172 or Piper Cherokee (uggh) in order to fly in that part of the world, but if nothing else, I'd like to simply connect with a few pilots in that area ahead of our trip out west to get some ideas as to what to expect, or if nothing else, to help point me in the right direction. I have 468 hours in three models of Mooneys, 1650 hours overall, SEL, MEL commercial instrument. I currently fly N6201Y, a 1978 M20J. My cell is 770-329-5400, my email is stathamross@gmail.com. I live in western Florida, and am on central time. Love to hear from you.

NHey gang, thought I'd let you all know what I ultimately did on my "hanger" towbar. All materials supplied by Lowe's, and EASILY made myself. I ended up using 1/2 inch iron piping for the t-handles, a long 48” 1/2 inch pipe for the length. But at the bottom, I used a "transition" elbow-- 1/2" on one side of the elbow, and 3/4" on the other side of the elbow. Into that side I screwed a 8 inch long section of 3/4" pipe, which is what I now insert into the tow socket of the plane. (Hope all of this is making sense.) I used some leftover red paint and painted everything but the 3/4" pipe red, which I left bare. How does it work? Like a champ! The plane's much easier to tow and turn, especially when I need to get leverage and lean back into the initial "pull" to get it unstuck from the hanger floor as well as on the return push back into the hanger. The project involved one trip to Lowe's, about five minutes or so to put it all together using two pipe wrenches, and two hours for the paint to dry. The 3/4 inch pipe fits the socket, and the 10 inch length is perfect. Great towbar. Total cost? $27. Parts list: Qty 1 1/2" iron pipe "T" (towbar connection to handles) Qty 1 1/2-3/4" iron pipe transition elbow Qty 2 10" x 1/2" iron pipe (for the handles) Qty 2 Optional 1/2” iron pipe cap ends for handle ends Qty 1 48” x 1/2" iron pipe (for the long towbar) Qty 1 10" x 3/4" iron pipe (to insert into the airplane tow socket)

Many years ago I had sold my 20-F and bought a 1954 Bonanza V-tail with an old style electric variable pitch prop. My wife and I had it all tested, fueled, loaded up and ready to fly from central Florida to Vermont. I had filed a flight plan for a 3.5 hour leg, opened my flight plan, taxied to the the of the runway, and did my final run up before calling the tower. Uh oh. The pitch on the prop was badly out of adjustment, for some strange reason, and we had to call the flight off. Would not build RPM. We had already taken the time off at work and had paid for a cabin in Vermont, so we ended up driving. And driving. Oh, and driving home. No fun. When we got back home 8 days and MANY miles later, I put the V-tail in the shop. They had a mechanic that had worked on an electric Bonanza prop several years earlier, and ours needed a moderate adjustment. That’s when I realized I wasn’t going to be able to depend on that airplane. It’s one of the reasons I sold that old hunk of junk and bought a Mooney 20J eighteen months later- which we flew to Vermont a few years ago.

Actually this is an area of personal expertise, so it’s nice that I can actually chime in. I spent two months researching and evaluating cameras, gear and procedures and have photographed natural disasters for FEMA and GEMA (including a massive F5 tornado track aftermath). I understand most of the ins and outs of this. I’ve shot thousands of frames. The good news is that your smart phone includes geotagging every time you snap a photo. The bad news is that even the very best smartphones still only have a chintzy little lens, and while your megapixel count is high, the optics aren’t much. Smartphone cameras have a rather wide angle lens setting as well, which is not what you want. If you’re looking for top quality results, you’ll be looking for an SLR camera that will ideally have geotagging. This is a process by which your precise latitude, longitude, altitude and the direction the camera was pointed (!!) are recorded within the meta-data of the photographs that you take. (Hence the need for a three axial electronic gyrocompass included in the needed GPS.) The GPS and gyrocompass will be particularly important later when you’re trying to later figure out exactly where you were located in the air and which way you were pointing the camera as you took the photograph. (Trust me when I tell you just how much you will want and need those features.) Best all around package we found was one of the later model digital Nikons that accepts an external front plug-in GPS input with electronic gyrocompass. But don’t use the Nikon GPS- it’s mediocre at best- we tried it, and found the aircraft cabin sometimes blocked GPS signal, and when you pointed the camera down to take photos often their chintzy two-axial gyrocompass stopped working. We selected the Solmeta, who makes a superb 3-axial gyrocompass GPS that slides into your shoe mount on top and has a cable that plugs into the front of the camera. No lost signal from the aircraft cabin. I’ve been using that combination for six years to excellent results. Strong Nikon optics, fast shutter speeds, crisp imagery- and each frame properly geotagged with direction of photo. Message me if you want to discuss. I love talking shop.

I try to use different instructors during my flight reviews. We have at least three CFIs based on our small field, and I’ve found it helpful to fly with different ones as well as use others at fields close by. Each has a slightly different approach and teaching style. I like to fly for an hour with one of these guys every 12 months or so, then ideally sit down for another hour over a cup of bad airport coffee and listen to their thoughts and observations as to what I did, and didn’t do, as well as general observations. It’s made me a better and safer pilot. When I was a member of the CAP, they required me to get a comprehensive ‘Form 5’ check ride every 12 months (which could also count as a flight review if I chose), and while those were always in a Cessna, most of their check pilots had some great insights. (CAP had a rule that I couldn’t get checked out by the same check pilot more than two years in a row, BTW.) I was also a CAP Mission Pilot, which was a separate check ride every two years. So I guess the CAP got me in the habit of annual reviews. Looking back, I’ve been taught by a former F16 pilot, a former B-52 driver, retired airline pilots, a former Vietnam forward air controller, a former F-111 pilot, a retired PhD, a former home builder turned CFI, an international freight dog, corporate pilots.... Most were good teachers who had flown in a wide range of high performance, complex aircraft. Four of them REALLY knew Mooneys. All of their insights were invaluable.

I’m impressed with her resume and accomplishments. Instead of yet another career bureaucrat appointment, the aviation community instead gets a pilot and aircraft owner who is also a retired USAF colonel who was involved with overseas assignments in combat zones? What was the FAA thinking? https://nbaa.org/press-releases/nbaa-welcomes-dr-susan-northrup-as-new-faa-federal-air-surgeon/ Most promising.