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About jacenbourne

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    1965 M20E

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  1. I hear you Andrew, we've recently been hard-at-work adding more tools to our European offering to help with some of the intricacies that are encountered there, such as Graphical NOTAMs, Map filtering, GAFOR, Eurocontrol validated routing, expanding our optional VFR data set coverages and more, we're always open to hearing your feedback, please drop us a note!
  2. Hi @Hyett6420, Thanks for bringing this to our attention. As PT20J mentioned, we're always on frequency to help at team@foreflight.com with any questions. This is a special-use airspace that's a defined warning area for Metro Research Flights. It's activated by NOTAM. You can see the name of the airspace and get more details by long-pressing on the airspace, then tapping the "Details" button next to the name (i.e. W-METRSEARCH) and it will give you more information about it. We hear you on seeing it in Profile View, our team is aware of that being distracting. If you have any questions, please feel free to reach out to team@foreflight.com! - Alex (ForeFlight Marketing Product Engineer)
  3. We need to run a splice off of our existing oil temperature sensor probe to extend it a bit, it's a little tight after we installed the oil filter adapter. This is for a 1965 Mooney M20E on a Lycoming IO-360-A1A. We're having a hard time identifying what gauge wire we should use, is it 16 shielded? Picture:
  4. Thank you! Good eye, the entire interior is from Aero Comfort. They do fantastic work!
  5. Thanks! I think you're correct, IIRC the clamp from Alpha Aviation was an MS P/N. Interesting they offer a welded nut version, that certainly would have made things easier! We did not have to drill any holes other than the hole through the window surrounds for the bolt to go through.
  6. After reading through several of the posts on here on installing Shoulder Harnesses on an older short-body Mooney, I figured I'd give back to the community with our process on installing inertial reel shoulder harnesses on our 1965 Mooney M20E. Resources/Reference Threads Which kit we installed, and what to know before you order? We installed the inertial reel shoulder harnesses with lift-lever buckle release from Alpha Aviation: https://alphaaviation.com/mooney-m20-a-thru-k-front-inertial-reel-shoulder-lap-belt-replacement-upgrade-lift-lever-buckle/ . Can't say enough good things about them, they were extremely helpful over the phone and when we lost some of the washers in the included minor change kit (more on that later), they were kind enough to mail me a baggie full at no additional cost. Before you order, you need to know 3 things: What's the attachment point of the seatbelt to the airplane? There are two. Either it is bolted on where a bolt goes through to attach it to the airplane, or it's hooked on, where there's a metal hook clamp at the end of the lap belt that hooks into the metal ring on the seat. What colour do you want? Match the interior. We went with the Fawn, they look great! Push Button or Lift Lever? Personal preference. They say not to use the lift lever with the manual gear, however after a half dozen flights on ours with the Johnson bar I've never had it release on me or cause issues. Now the fun part - installing! Tools Needed: Masking Tape Set of wrenches, if I remember correctly, a 9/16ths and a 5/8ths is what we used the most Handy phillips head screwdriver Slack-jaw pliers Needle-nose pliers Socket head wrench for the bolt (or you can do it with a regular wrench) Cotter pins since you're removing the seat Drill with multiple bits (recommended a rotary ream) Overview Video IMG_2630.MOV Step One Remove the seats. You're going to need the access, and this makes it easier to unhook the old seatbelts anyways. Step Two Pray to Al that the engineers when assembling your particular Mooney gave you a little bit of clearance between the steel bars of the cage and the skin of the aircraft. Okay, now you're ready to get started. Do the pilot's side first, it's by far the hardest, and also the one you're most frequent to use. Step Three Remove the side-plastics on the side you're working on, for this guide, I'm going to focus on the Pilot's side as I recommend to do that one first. Remove the window surrounds - side plastics/paneling around the windows. Remove the headliner. Step Four Now the fun part. Take the clamp, and open the clamp up by inserting a screwdriver into each hole opposite of each other so they make an X, then push against them to open the clamp up so it will fit over the tube. You're going to need to install the clamp, included with the minor change kit, around the structural tube that runs in between the two windows with the flange & screw holes facing aft. This is murder. It is very hard to get the clamp on and turned around and took us probably 3-4 hours to do it. I wish I had advice for you, but there's not really any. What we did was used the needle nose pliers to hold the aluminum around the tube back and then just brute forced it on and kept pushing/turning, pushing/turning until it was where it needed to be. One thing that makes it a little easier - try to find the place with the most clearance between the skin of the aircraft and the tube. For us, it was at the top under the headliner. We worked it on there then just shimmied the clamp down. Step Five Once you finally have it turned around, align the clamp to the vertical midpoint of the two windows, then use those slack-jaw pliers to tighten the clamp. Step Six Now it's time to do a test fit. The minor change kit includes the bolt, washers, spacers, and nut that you'll need. They are going to go through the provided hole on the inertial reel box, then through the two holes on the clamp, affixing the nut on the end of the bolt (spoiler alert: tightening the bolt on to that nut is like doing open heart surgery with swiss army knife tweezers), like so. Step Seven Do a test fit with the bolt through the clamp holes. Is the clamp in the right position or is it too high/too low? Step Eight Take the plastic window surrounds you removed earlier and line it up with the bolt holes on the clamp to determine where you need to drill the hole for the bolt to go through the plastic and into the clamp. It's more of an art than a science and requires some eye-balling. Mask off the hole, then use your drill & rotary ream to drill a hole big enough for the bolt to go through in the plastic window surrounds. Step Nine Make a blood sacrifice to Al. This part took us the longest. You're going to have to put the bolt through the inertial reel box, through the plastic window surrounds, through the bolt holes of the clamp, and hold the nut at the end of the clamp in place while you tighten the bolt on. Congratulations, you've got about an inch and a quarter to work with to hold it in place, and I hope you're instrument rated because you're not going to be able to see anything as the plastic is covering it. We tried several methods to do this, including using masking tape to tape the nut to the wrench itself but no matter how tightly we got it, it never was enough to hold tension for the bolt to start to thread through. Good luck, and may the Mooney gods be with you. Step Ten Once that's on, torque it to the appropriate setting (I want to say it was 70 or 90 inch pounds) and put the plastic cover back on the inertial reel. Step Eleven Reinstall the headliner, plastics, etc. into place. Step Twelve Reinstall the seat, install new cotter pin, and install the lap belt back on to the seat, then do a test fit. Crack open a cold one, sit back and admire your work, and look at your watch as you realize that just took you almost a full day. I hope you found this helpful, this was not a fun process, but I will say the passenger's side is much easier (a lot more clearance, and you can actually see!) and rest knowing your flying now just became a lot safer. Apologies for the sideways pictures, they are right side up on my computer but inserting rotated...
  7. As you'll see everyone has their method... welcome to flying precision aircraft . 1965 M20E, here's what I do: Pull MP back to 20-21", establish 500fpm descent rate. In my bird, the ASI will read in the yellow at this setting, usually 10-15mph from redline, so if I don't decrease the power, it's too close to Vne, but I usually just pull the MP back enough until I'm maintaining about 170-175mph indicated. I'll maintain this until reaching pattern altitude, which I usually give myself about 5nm or so out from the airport to slow down. Level off, pull the power back to 15-17" and let the speed bleed off as I get closer to entering the pattern, usually entering the pattern somewhere between 100-120mph. I like to be in the pattern at 100mph, base at 90mph, final at 80mph, then slow to 70-75. If I'm 120 in the pattern, I'll lower the gear early to use them as speed brakes.
  8. Just my $0.02, but the purpose of an air/oil separator is to prevent oil loss by recycling the oil back into the engine and dumping air out the breather instead (hence "air/oil separator"). If you were to install one, but have the oil recycled into a container instead of going back into the engine (aka move the hose from the oil/air separator into a container with a drain), then that would kind of defeat the point... it'd be a fair bit of money to do nothing. If it's just a matter of keeping the belly clean, keep the plane under 7qts of oil and clean the belly once a week which will take about 10 minutes since it won't be accumulating very much of it. Just a different opinion to consider.
  9. Thanks Doc. We had another A&P and his engine guy tear into it for a little bit today and they're pretty convinced it's the fuel servo, though they were also a little amazed at it. They couldn't get any rise out of the mixture cable at all, his guess is the fuel is bypassing the servo since the mixture cable is correctly traveling to the stop. They couldn't get the thing to die - which I'll take opposed to the other option! We checked all the fuel lines and vents and the spider, they all looked good. The fuel servo was recently overhauled about a month ago, we think it was done incorrectly and are contacting the guy now.
  10. Thanks all. I found this great article: https://www.cessnaflyer.org/maintenance-tech/item/1150-understanding-your-lycoming-fuel-injection-system.html , that also lines up with what everyone is saying, sounds like the fuel servo center seal is going and the servo needs OH/replacement. We will run that test and get it replaced/fixed!
  11. We seem to have some fuel system gremlins we're trying to work out on a M20E with a fuel-injected IO-360-A1A. It's always run rich, but now when you put the mixture to idle-cut off, the engine won't die, it still combusts, I've been shutting it down with the fuel selector and by going mixture idle, throttle full forward to create an incombustible mix. First thing we checked was the mixture cable rigging, and it's set correctly, at idle cut-off, it's all the way against the stop. The issue seems to be escalating, at first it would run rich but die just fine, now it's refusing to die, and the last couple flights it's started to backfire a bit and run rougher in cruise. The fuel injector nozzles and spider were recently overhauled. Next thing we want to check is the fuel valve setting to set the values by the book, and check all fuel lines to ensure they are secure. What else should we look at?
  12. Thanks siu. This is perfect. Looks like we'll need to grab some extra parts!
  13. We purchased the Donaldson spin on oil filter P/N 77852 for Lycoming engines to be able to make oil changes easier ('65 M20E) . My question is the part doesn't come with installation instructions... I had a spin-on filter STC on my Cessna back in the day and I know it specifically specified desoldering the oil screen and removing it when installing the spin on kit, is it the same with the Mooney kit or is it installed over the screen?
  14. Thanks @Alan Fox. Could you send me the P/N from the tube please (or post a pic)?
  15. Hi Alan, would this pitot tube also work in a 1965 E model?