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Woodpile

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Everything posted by Woodpile

  1. I just replaced mine in in the 20F. I have the cooling shroud and needed to slightly raise the mag cover to get the shroud out. Surefly mag cover was quick to tilt up (just another set of safety wire). I removed the oil filter for better access from the top. - tape the gasket when re-installing - the hoses are a bear to align - never thought I could get my arm under the exhaust and come up the middle. Dropping lower cowl might be useful, but not worth the extra work - just the ram air duct would take me an hour. - less than 8 hours and I've never done one - no need to remove mag or tilt engine - exercise caution on Aircraft Spruce, as 3 different pressure versions of the same pump are on the same page. The compatibility sheet is spot on though.
  2. I am still very happy with the cooler temps and the indications on my new GI275 engine monitor attest to the performance better than the old analog gauge
  3. FWIW, I replaced the mech pump. Pressure is around 18 and no spikes noted on ground run. I guess I can say that the change to the Garmin Engine monitor made this issue apparent and was well worth it.
  4. Thanks, I didn't see this on the analog, so I presumed it was similar to my manifold pressure drops. Looks more like a mech pump issue now.
  5. So my fluctuation is on the low side, my cruise is around 15 psi (1 above red). I have a new fuel line, but maybe I just need more pressure. Can the mech pump be turned up, or time for a new one? Boost runs at 18
  6. The description on their website was light oil or water, IIR. That would probably put 100LL right in the middle
  7. I was very happy with the PS-8G to fix my wild MP swings
  8. I'm hoping to contribute a bit to the topic. I just had a GI-275 EIS installed in my 1970 20F. Love the gauge; rebuilt fuel sensors and have much better info in cockpit. Two issues arose. The MP was bouncing all over the place. A different thread suggested a particular snubber; $14 later and nice stable MP. The second was with instantaneous fuel pressure dropping to 0 - continuous pressure was normal at 16-18 on the mech pump, and 18 with electric boost. Whenever the boost was off, the instant needle would periodically drop to 0 and trigger the alarm. This usually happens at max power and only with boost off. There are no abnormal indications in flow. I suspect this is only something that is visible due to the sensitivity of the transducer - never saw this on the analog. I just got off the phone with Garmin and they said the 275 display could not be adjusted (sensitivity reduced etc) - it only displays what the sending unit says. It is my thought that even a fraction of a second buffer would eliminate the indication. One mech suggested to replace fuel pump - other said don't waste time/$. After reading this thread, and the success with MP, I think a bit of extra fuel line or some sort of snubber is worth the effort.
  9. Is there a particular type or thickness of aluminum required (or preferred) for this work?
  10. That seems like a fascinating, and easy solution. Could probably be done without removing the rails, too. I'll look into that, thanks.
  11. At my last annual, the mechanic pointed out that my rail holes were getting oval shaped and that I should consider new rails. There are no new rails, and the salvage ones I have found are not a significant improvement. Is there any general knowledge on what amount of oval is safe? Can they be sleeved? Or plugged and re-drilled?
  12. I am also out the cost of shipping to Gulf Coast and mechanic fees. I doubt I'll see that cash.
  13. The Lasar oil cooler relocation kit contains new brackets to install behind the left rear cylinder by changing out the baffle section. It includes new, shorter hoses, and a panel to close over the hole in the original lower cowl location. I also added the Lasar cowl enclosure which reduces the intake by about 1/2. When I discussed this with Lasar, they told me the original designed intake around the spinner is so large that it over pressurizes the the engine compartment to the point that on some aircraft airflow is backwards (or at least stagnant) around the oil cooler - leading to poor cooling performance. I made both adjustments at the same time. 1200 in parts, 1200 in labor. The baffles probably need some tinkering - see above posts from others. We had to reposition it just a touch more outboard, and close a small gap.
  14. WooHoo! My oil temp used to stay at the top of the green the whole time I was in cruise. I just finished the Lasar relocation kit and lower cowl mod - now i have all that green north of the needle
  15. I installed V8, but the problem doesn't show up very often. Obviously, if I never see it again, I am fine. Garmin is working with me now and I have sent them 2 data logs from the G5, by their request. They also asked for the battery ID. I'll chime in more if I hear anything.
  16. The bad news is that I have a G5 newer ("4JQ043338") than the recall list and this is happening to my system (a few times). So far, the work around has temporarily resolved the issue. The, possibly, good news is that Garmin (via Gulf Coast Avionics), claims that updating a newer system to version 8 software should resolve it. I am running 6.83. It seems to be tough to accept that the same problem was caused by faulty hardware worthy of recall, but now it is just caused by software. Time will tell.
  17. Just adding a bit to this thread. I just had my second G5 start-up failure. Both times occurred after a sequence of short start-up and shut down efforts. Same symptoms seemed to imply the battery was dead. My first failure I was still in warranty and sent it back to the seller (by their request). Only to be followed by "oh, nothing wrong - just a dead battery - you probably have a loose wire". It ran just fine until I just came out of annual and did a few starts - it ran the first time, then didn't on the 3rd start. on other web post noted that they thought it occurred when the G5 didn't have time to finish a boot. Maybe.
  18. My B6 is also approved for approaches and I find it to be excellent at workload reduction and highly reliable in most conditions. I am not a mechanic but understand it is wired to the CDI, and does not care whether it is driven by a VOR, ILS or GPS signal. I find that the LOC setting (instead of track) seems to be more accurate in low crosswind conditions, but no so much in gusty crosswinds. Cecilia did say it can be wired to the analog output of G430W, as it is apparently the same signal anyway. Again, I could be wrong - I am new to civil flight.
  19. I called LASAR, they have a seal kit (on the way). Anyhting that is $54 in aviation, I'll just buy and be thankful. I have a very trusted mechanic who also owned many Mooneys, and my annual next month. This is not something I would go after with my very low fixed wing experience and no formal maintenance skills.
  20. I just found an article that says LASAR repairs the seals. It implies there is an o-ring at the top, but I don't get the impression they think it can be replaced by a mechanic.
  21. Sorry, not the fuel caps, leaking on my carpet from the tank selector lever. Just enough to leave a bit of fuel moisture. I assume there is an o-ring to replace on the lever. I didn't find any o-rings or seals listed in the part manual drawing.
  22. So, mine is leaking out the top - I presume I need to replace the painful seal. Just o-rings? Pull all 8 screws and pop it out from the top? Any tips appreciated.
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