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About Woodpile

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  • Location
    Enterprise, AL
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  • Model
    M20F, 1970

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  1. My B6 is also approved for approaches and I find it to be excellent at workload reduction and highly reliable in most conditions. I am not a mechanic but understand it is wired to the CDI, and does not care whether it is driven by a VOR, ILS or GPS signal. I find that the LOC setting (instead of track) seems to be more accurate in low crosswind conditions, but no so much in gusty crosswinds. Cecilia did say it can be wired to the analog output of G430W, as it is apparently the same signal anyway. Again, I could be wrong - I am new to civil flight.
  2. I called LASAR, they have a seal kit (on the way). Anyhting that is $54 in aviation, I'll just buy and be thankful. I have a very trusted mechanic who also owned many Mooneys, and my annual next month. This is not something I would go after with my very low fixed wing experience and no formal maintenance skills.
  3. I just found an article that says LASAR repairs the seals. It implies there is an o-ring at the top, but I don't get the impression they think it can be replaced by a mechanic.
  4. Sorry, not the fuel caps, leaking on my carpet from the tank selector lever. Just enough to leave a bit of fuel moisture. I assume there is an o-ring to replace on the lever. I didn't find any o-rings or seals listed in the part manual drawing.
  5. So, mine is leaking out the top - I presume I need to replace the painful seal. Just o-rings? Pull all 8 screws and pop it out from the top? Any tips appreciated.
  6. So this would presumably explain why a 70 model 20F would be registered as a 69?
  7. Thanks for putting in the note about hog hair. My vent is frozen in the down position and I have been reading here to figure out how to get after it. I was a bit disturbed today, wondering if there was any way some animal with that much hair could have gotten in. I was looking through the vents to see if I could lube the cable and found all this hair in there. BTW - I still have not figured out how the knobs are removed - I have a 1970 20F, but does not seem to have set screws. I guess the 7/16 nut is on top.
  8. Is there any other tips you can share on how those visor mounts come out? I removed the screw from the large chrome fitting, but they did not seem to come loose at all.
  9. I took the screws out of the main posts on the visor mounts and the posts did not loosen up at all. The little screws only appear to go into the headliner itself and don't need to be removed. If you can shed any more light on the visors, hank, please do. I will eventually go back and remove the entire headliner to figure out why I can't open the vent scoop on top of the cabin. probably detail that in a different thread
  10. Thanks, MikeOH - that is exactly what I ended up doing - with dozens of screws out, there was still some secret thing holding the front in anyway. I was well along on Turbo's path before I went that route. When the new one arrives, I'll just take out those 3-4 back screws.
  11. Thanks for the entries on this topic. I'm a new 20F owner and the stall warning was not working. I sprayed the switch, no change. I taped the switch on, and when I put the multi-meter on it, there was a little noise. I thought it was continuity, but it grew louder the more I tapped it. I suspect the horn was dirty and worn. It takes a bit to get going now, but it works. Since there is not a lot of spare time in stalls, I am replacing it. The link above looks like the correct part, Mallory Sonalert SC628. Amazon will get it in the mail for $4 less. Did I miss the thread on how to get that
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