cferr59

If I was going to rig up a preheater, I would use something like this with ducting to direct the heat into the cowl. I had done this for my previous 152, but at the time no battery powered heaters were available so I used an inverter. Not sure where you are, but if it is regularly cold and you can power it, a proper preheater is worth the trouble to install. One of the first things I did to my Mooney was install a Reiff Turbo system. I don't see a 500 watt air powered heater doing much of anything unless it is left on for a long period of time.

The tip of the breaker has the amperage embossed in it, but you won't be able to see it if the cover is on. Note that in my '65C there is a bus bar covering all of the breakers so the easiest way to replace one is to remove the mounting nuts holding the breakers to the panel and slide them back as an assembly. Then, there is enough room to remove and replace an individual breaker. Not sure if the newer models are set up the same way.

So I finished the install and the starting vibrator does not seem do anything now that I have installed the Surefly (can't hear it during start). @DXB Thanks for the help with the battery box. Haven't flown it yet, but I did have a successful run-up with the Surefly. Hoping to do the first test flight later today if the weather holds out.

@DXB Sent you a text. It is already torqued, timed and new harness installed, just to finish the wiring and MP pickup (needed tools that I didn't have at the airport). From what I can tell, the vibrator won't actually do much of anything unless it is connected to a real magneto so it may be of no concern. IA thought it doesn't matter either, but wasn't 100% sure.

I do have the dash off (for an unrelated issue) and I don't think I can quite get to it. The easiest thing for me (other than leaving the whole thing alone) might be to remove the turn coordinator and push the switch through its hole. My IA is leaving for vacation tomorrow, but promised to sign it off if I was done in the morning so I'd like to get it done expeditiously (although not in a way that will damage something!).

Unfortunately, it is inside of the firewall at the top so it is almost inaccessible without the avionics access panels. I wish it was on the engine side of the firewall!

I have mostly installed my Surefly (after having to buy a $250 magneto gear). I would prefer not to touch the ignition switch because it is almost impossible to get to due to my 201 windshield. In addition to being a PITA to get to the switch, it would be nice to have the option to reinstall the old mag should the Surefly fail or end up with an AD. Surefly is installed in the left position. Is there any consequence to leaving the starting vibrator active? The instructions just say to insulate the retard lead and tie it out of the way, no mention of disabling the starting vibrator. Right now, the starting vibrator turns on in the start position and then I need to push to start. Per some documentation from Bendix, it looks like the SOS (BO), retard points (LR), and left P-lead (L) are have continuity during this operation. This means the starting vibrator is connected to both LR and L. My intention would be to simply insulate the the lead coming from LR (retard) and leave the rest of the setup alone.

So I have joined the overpriced dual keyway gear club. I went to install the Surefly and the closest I could get it timed was around 2-3 degrees off. I purchased a new gear and will be finishing the install with my A&P/IA on Saturday. The best deal on the gear I could find is the SL68C19622 Superior part from AirPower.

Definitely worth looking and the engine monitor data and also comparing it to previous flights. Like others have said, the roughness itself shouldn't change the oil pressure. What was the power setting when you noticed this?

It probably caused an RPM drop which would affect the oil pressure. Any engine monitor data to post?

That happened to me right after I bought the plane. I decided to get the 440. I was not happy about it at the time, but after flying with the IFD for a while, I am happy now.

My opinion is that it doesn't really matter what type of oil you use as long as the viscosity range is appropriate for the temperature and it is designed for an airplane engine. For reference, I use 20w-50 XC with Camguard. Why? 1.) It works in all temperature ranges that I am likely to fly in. I don't want to have to switch between summer vs. winter oil 2.) It is cheaper than Aeroshell 15w-50. This is a semi-synthetic, but I'm not sure you get much advantage to this due to the short drain intervals. I run synthetic in my truck (and car before I went electric) because I could extend the drain intervals. 3.) Camguard: I'm not 100% sold that it will really guard my cam, but I have a Lycoming engine so it can use all the guarding it can get. The reason there is so much debate on this is that reasonable person could make a totally different choice. If I found some Aeroshell 100, I'd probably just dump it is as makeup oil in the summer.

I feel like partial panel is like driving on ice. If nothing too complicated is happening and you just make very gentle turns or go straight in smooth air, it isn't that hard. If anything out of the ordinary happens including a lot of turbulence, complicated routing (should just declare an emergency to avoid this), it is not so easy to keep things under control. I do practice partial panel approaches when I practice IFR currency, but I would not deliberately enter IMC partial panel unless I could not get to VMC without running out of fuel. When I fly in IMC, I like having my G5, Dynon D3, and iPad with AHARS, plus my vacuum instruments working.

It can be tested on the ground by pulling power to idle where the vacuum is at the low end of the range, then noting the increase in vacuum by turning the backup system on. I only do this check if I expect to enter IMC.

Same situation. There does not appear to be any contamination and the pump looks perfect inside. I'm also going to rig it up as a ground pump for any testing I might need to do. It will not fly again. I am not that brave...

Definitely is important to understand that. I have been aware of how it worked and as a flat-land pilot, I was comfortable with the limitations. I did want to test it out before any possibility of using it in IMC however. If land is 5k+ MSL, you need to think about if it would work you; it might not. A failure in a Mooney is fortunate because it doesn't need a lot of power to cruise slow.

Definitely thinking of another G5, but I will not be rid of the vacuum system without replacing my Brittain. I was willing to enter IMC if needed due to the G5, Precise Flight, and Stratus/iPad backups. However, I had 3 hours of fuel remaining and would not have entered IMC partial panel unless my fuel situation dictated otherwise.

I was flying from KEFK (Vermont) to KPNE (Philly) and had a vacuum failure. Fortunately, I was in VMC over a mostly overcast layer between 3000-5000 feet. While I have a G5 AI and a Precise Flight backup system, I decided it was best that I find a hole to descend. I did some practicing with the Precise Flight to confirm how it worked in case I did need to descend through the layer. The Precise Flight backup system works off of the delta between the manifold pressure and ambient pressure so it does almost nothing if the throttle is fully open or close to fully open. I was already aware of how it worked, but had never used it in an actual vacuum pump failure event. Fortunately, a Mooney is pretty fast so a low power setting still produces acceptable cruise performance. 110 knots isn't amazing, but a 172 can't go any faster. Just as I was starting to get worried, I found a nice size hole near Soleberg Airport and was able to get down while meeting VFR cloud clearance requirements. Well, I installed a new pump today and disassembled the old pump. The only issue seems to be that the shear coupling is sheared. The vanes and rotor are intact and the pump spins freely. Pump has 550 hours on it and I could have just replaced the coupler, but I feel more comfortable replacing it with a new pump. I was fortunate to have backups to get myself out of this situation if needed, but this is a good reminder that you should not bet your life on the vacuum pump. Descent video: https://gopro.com/v/QnqzVPWX9o5MP

I actually have their half harness which I bought off of a recommendation here. It seems like a good quality harness. Surefly is hopefully going on one day this week after work. I've had it since the 15% off Coronavirus special, but was waiting for annual to install it.

Oh awesome! I don't think I checked for them there. I was trying to make sure I have everything I need before I try to install it with my IA. But I just pulled up the description of the hardware kit (which is much easier to see than the Slick mag diagrams) and they are there! They are: "#8-32x1" OVAL HEAD PHILLIPS MACHINE SCREW"

I am installing a Surefly and the Slick harness that I purchased did not come with the screws to attach it to the magneto. From looking at a parts diagram, I think the part number is M3015, but can anyone confirm that? Thanks

I bought a half harness from Aircraft Ignition Services in Texas. I would give them a call to make sure you get the right harness.

It seems like they were using a car timing belt to run a helicopter rotor. I'd be a bit more comfortable with an car alternator belt driving an airplane alternator even if it wasn't technically legal.

Very curious... Can it generate its own power? Can it replace both mags? I just sent one mag for a 500 hour and I'm installing Surefly on the other. I would be happy to replace both, but I would want one to be independent of the electrical system.

I also have time in a DA20 and DA40. This plane looks pretty cool, but it needs to hold more than 50 gallons of fuel. Also, they don't list the useful load which is pretty important here.