Buckeyechuck

If it’s the gascolator in the nose wheel area. Mcfarlane sells an STC’d replacement. If it’s the fuel selector in the floor the older style just has a steel ball bearing held under tension by a spring on a Teflon seat. The bearing is subject to corrosion if there has been any moisture in its past. A new ball bearing might be the fix.

I guess I’m the lucky one. We have an avionics shop on our field. They are a Garmin shop. I was able to do the most of mechanical installation on my GFC500. They did all of the wiring, installed servos, setup, etc. I’ve done this a number of time when doing upgrades prior to, so I have an excellent relationship with them. Not only does it reduce some cost, I’m learning and I know my airplane that much better. They are just a two man shop so they appreciate the help.

I did half of my commercial in an older Arrow 201 and the rest in the C model that I now have owned for over 20 years. I found the Arrow harder to land as you need to keep power on all the way to the ground. The Arrow flies like a rock down and dirty. I couldn’t make the runway from a mid field downwind simulated engine out. I find the C much easier to land as long as you maintain the right approach speeds. On a mid field down wind simulated engine out you have almost an eternity to get set up for landing. Mooney for me.

Put in 2 G5’s and a GTN 650 a few years ago. Got the GFC 500 done last year. Didn’t have an autopilot prior to this. WOW, I’d do it again in a heartbeat.

Might be interested in the engine instrument cluster if you still have it. Need to verify it fits my ‘62C. What is the part number on it?

Thanks. Looks good. What is Key #?

I like your series of check lists in the top photo. Where did you get them?

My compass is mounted to the center post. I also have visors from Lasar that are mounted from the outer cage tubing.

Wentworth has them.

Was able to complete a weld repair on my caps. No a job for an average welder. Wentworth just responded. They have stock @ $45 per cap. Beats new at $500 and up any day.

I tested one of my damaged caps today. Did the vinegar test, no reaction. Filed some material off and tried to light it. No response. It seems these are aluminum.

I tested one of my damaged caps today. Did the vinegar test, no reaction. Filed some material off and tried to light it. No response. It seems these are aluminum.

Just finishing the annual. Have the same problem. Need two. Nothing on eBay new ones $5-600. Anyone know if these are cast aluminum or magnesium? At the cost of new, I’m guessing magnesium.

Been looking for something like this ever since having bladders installed. Thanks. This is great.

Ok. We were hesitant to use any force. Didn’t want to damage the bladders. Forcing anything on an airplane always ends up bad.

Anyone have any idea what type fuel sender is in the second photo? I’m trying to install overhauled senders (first photo). Can’t get the senders that are in the tanks to come out. They do not appear to be the original type. Logs say they were replaced in 1990. Had bladders installed in 2002. Senders were reused. I’m afraid I will need to open the wing and bladder to get these out.

Strongly agree. Check your mags. Timing issue or problem with the retard breaker not working. Had the same problem with kickback on starting. Found a spark plug wire intermittently grounding out the retard breaker terminal.

May be a stupid comment but what about the folks who make replacement windows. When we replaced our windows years ago the vent, hinges, and latch was included.

Good luck.

All it took for me (right shoulder) was rolling over in bed while my arm was behind my back due to a sore back. While going thru prep to get it fixed I tore the left shoulder pulling on a breaker bar removing lawnmower blades. I’m left handed so that one became the priority. Two anchors for rotator cuff repair, grinding some bones smooth and fixing a torn labrum and the left one is 100% now. Did my own PT. You don’t know pain till you start using your fingers to “climb the wall”. Decided after that the right shoulder was not that bad. I have manual gear. I climb at 80 until ready to raise the gear. Dropping the nose while swinging the gear, makes it a non event.

Is there a procedure for setting the spacing in the cups? I suspect this is too tight in my C.

Yes I’m familiar we use dry ice blasting in the mill I have worked in to clean large motors. Also familiar with walnut shell and corn cob blasting. 6 g’s for new shafts and yokes is a bit rich for me. At this point I’m going to clean up what I have and put them back in the airplane.

We’ve just run some wires for the new roll servo (Garmin GFC 500) for my ‘62 C model. Our airplane has fuel bladders so pulling the inspection covers in those areas is not a good idea. We disconnected the nav light wire, soldered a wire to the end of it, pulled it back into the cabin, tied the new wires to it and pulled back through. It worked well.

how many AMU’s is a new one?

I’m not concerned about condition, PT’d the entire shaft. No defects.