MinneMooney

I replaced all 4 side windows on my ‘65C during my annual last November. It was not difficult, however, it was helpful to have multiple people help during the install. On my plane, there were no clips(other than the tabs used to secure the interior panels). We had to drill holes for all the screws. I bought a 3/16” and a 1/4” acrylic bit from Aircraft Spruce and would highly recommend them. We used Chemseal CS3204 B2 in 3.5 oz tubes. I ordered 5 and my A&P only used 3. It was my A&P’s idea to use clecos to hold them in place while the sealant cured. It worked great. Also, don’t skimp on the masking tape and buy a bunch of the plastic razor blades and a couple holders to make the cleanup a snap.

I ordered this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S15KDS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and printed my own.

Long ago, I used to work with methyl cellulose at a chemical distributor. We blended methylene chloride based paint strippers. Methyl cellulose was used to thicken it, however, it had to be added in the correct sequence. Methanol was the final add to the mix and it quickly caused the entire mixture to dramatically thicken. I don’t believe that you could successfully add methyl cellulose to this stripper and have it gel. I think it would either 1. do nothing or 2. form many gelatinous clumps. Also, methyl cellulose seems expensive (sold by the pound) however, it’s a very low density powder. A 10 pound bag was quite large.

P51D, as long as it’s an even trade!

Welcome aboard. I’ve owned my ‘65 M20C for just over 2 years. I’ve learned a tremendous amount of information by spending time on this blog. I haven’t had any questions that I haven’t been able to find the answers by searching here.

I replaced both main tires last November. I went with Air Hawks as that’s what was already on the nose. I did choose to replace the tubes at the same time as I figured the current tubes were at least 15 years old. I chose to go with the butyl rubber low leak inner tubes. They cost almost as much as the tire, but thus far, I haven’t had to add any air to the mains, unlike my nose tire. That, to me, is worth the price.

That spinner looks like the 2 blade version of mine.

Welcome Bill. Possibly we’ll run into each other (figuratively speaking) once we can have pancake breakfasts, etc. again. I have a hangar at KANE. How long have you owned N7802V?

This fuel gauging tool came with my plane when I purchased it. After seeing others post about using paint stir sticks to try to gauge their tanks, I thought I should post information in case anyone wanted to make one of these for themselves. Mine is fabricated from aluminum sheet metal and painted black. As you can see, it’s angled so that it protrudes into the tank towards the wing root. Gauging markings are scribed on both sides and labeled right/left. I have checked it many times when refueling and have found it to be generally within a gallon. However, I have not drained the tanks and checked it while refilling. I have standard 52 gallon tanks. Feel free to ask any questions.

I had a Tailbeacon installed on my ‘65C. Easy install and it’s been working just fine. I am having trouble lately with the app not working so I guess I need to contact Uavionix.

Someone just sent me a message asking about several items on Amazon working for this project. Somehow the message has disappeared. Please resend.

I just found that searching for “Jazzy motor” on eBay still brings up several sources for $32.50 with shipping. You would still need to adapt a wheel to fit unless you get one of the 14” wheels with the 5 bolt hub. Then my concern would be that it would travel 40% faster and have a lot less power at the same rpm. I would estimate my setup moves the plane (on level ground) about 5 mph at 100% on the speed control. That’s fast unless you’re traveling in a wide open area. I’m usually down around 40% when I’m pushing into the hangar and slowly decrease to 15-20% until it hit my wheel chock stop.

I have seen some drive units with wheels for sale in the past. That would have kept things simpler.

I modified the wheel I found by drilling it out to 1” to fit the shaft. I then cut a key way into the wheel using a file, which was not that hard given that the wheel is aluminum.

The key to this was that I was able to buy a drive motor/gearbox and a tire for $40 on eBay. I used to see them listed fairly often a year ago. Not so much lately.