ReconMax

Yup. That's what it took. I called and left a message and they called me back. They are going to work on getting me onto their schedule. They sound busy though.

I tried emailing fsc@mooney.com to request a service appointment but didn't hear anything back. Is that the right way to go about getting a service appointment?

Let us know if that fixes your issue.

Thats also what John-Paul concluded though ultimately he decided to lean out #4 and also enrichen #1 with #3. I’ll report back when we get it done. Thanks again…

All the baffling looks good. I don't see any issues. It is odd that cracking the cowl flaps a tiny bit improves the temperatures so greatly. Those images were taken from cruise. I'll continue to discuss and investigate airflow issues with the mechanic. Thanks for the input.

I don't recall the plug types. I'll mention the possibility of an induction leak to the mechanic and see what they say and check back in here. It might take a couple weeks to get the mechanic's attention on all this. Thanks for looking and sharing your observations. Mooneyspace is a great resource.

Yes. I am following the GAMI procedures for conducting the Lean test followed by the mag test. So, I lean one more time and do the mag test for the time indicated in their documentation.

Interesting... Thanks for the info. The concept sounds reasonable...

I'll mention the idea of an induction leak. Is there anyway for me to tell or is that just something I have to leave up to the mechanic? I'm not familiar with the GAMI Hi-Lo test. Do yo have a link for this with information? Really, I am assuming basic stuff like mag timing and induction leaks would be things that the mechanic is very aware of and paid particularly close attention to. That said, anything is possible. We did have the entire fuel system sent off and rebuilt (pump, servo, etc.) as part of the work too. This may account for the need to switch out injectors more than just the top overhaul.

Most recent GAMI lean test (three tests) with mag test following final lean. 1 second sample rate... https://apps.savvyaviation.com/beta/shared/flight/6781818/dcfbc8b0-e5c7-4107-b25c-1f08e4cbff6c Correction on my 1.2 indication. It looks here more like 0.6 here but I could be reading it wrong. I had 1.2 in my head from a previous test run maybe. I'm relying on John-Paul's feedback after reviewing this test run. He indicated #3 was very lean (relatively) and eventually decided to lean out #4 and enrichen #1 & #3. Like I said, I now have the injectors. Just waiting to get them installed #1 is going from C to A #2 no change can't remember what is there now #3 is going from H to J #4 is going from C to A

Which professional? This a place you send them to after your mechanic removes them?

Current spread is >= 1.2. Before my top overhaul I had it down to 0.4.

He already sent the injectors. Hopefully, we'll get them installed soon...

I don't recall getting them after we put the GAMI injectors in. The mechanic may still have them. Should I have tried to keep them?

Edit: 1998 M20J I recently completed a "Top" overhaul. During the break-in, it became apparent that my injector setup was no longer valid. We swapped out an injector on the #4 cylinder that solved the biggest problem we were seeing with the #4 cylinder which was it was running too rich. Now with this swapped out injector, it is still running too rich but not quite as bad. It's still hard to manage though because if I try to run LOP, by the time #4 gets to 10 degree LOP, the other three cylinders have started flaming out. I did a GAMI lean test and sent the data to GAMI. It turns out they want to change out three of the injectors so they sent me three new ones. Before we install them, I wanted to ask a question here about CHT. The #4 CHT is hard to manage. (never was before) I normally target a maximum of 380 for CHT. Currently, as I start to lean out the mixture, the EGT for #4 peaks first and the CHT easily will overshoot 380 if I don't hurry up and get to the lean side. I'm not currently flying this way though because like I said, the other 3 cylinders start to get rough at this point. I am staying on the rich side and the #4 CHT is hard to manage there too. If I lean the engine such that the EGTs rise above 1300, #4 CHT goes over 380. So, I have to keep it pretty rich, burning about 13.5 GPH @ 7500 to to not exceed 380 on #4 CHT. Everything lean of this, gets me into the problem of the #4 CHT or if I keep leaning such that #4 CHT comes back down, the other three cylinders are just running too rough So, here is my question. Do you think the injector swap out will fix this? Is there something else we should be looking for? I noticed that barely cracking open the cowl flaps has a huge effect on the CHTs. I can do this and lean further. However, I don't really want to fly around like that. I can hear it. And, it might take a knot off. I'm not sure about that. I have looked at the baffling and it looks good. Flashlight test and all. There is nothing about the baffling material that leads me to believe it's kinked or anything. I never had to work hard to manage temps before and I'd like to get back to not having to do it now. I'm definitely going to swap out the injectors as prescribed by GAMI. Just thought I'd check in here to see if there were any other thoughts on it. I've been told that sometimes a cylinder runs hotter due to differences in airflow. Maybe that's it. Also, maybe once I swap the injectors, and get get all the cylinders peaking at the same time, it'll be easier. Here is a pic of my engine monitor with me ROP. Notice I am already pushing the 380 and barely have EGTs 1300+. Here is another pic with me trying to get LOP. Notice that by the time #4 gets to 10 degrees LOP, the other EGTs especially #3 are already much cooler. (60-70 degrees LOP for #3) I really want to have the option to fly LOP but it's not really even an option right now. Currently, I'm about ~50 into the Top overhaul and oil consumption is very stable at about 1 qt every 8-10 hours.

What is an "EASY" button?

Also, one more thing. I was advised by the Maxwells to stop using the big red AP disconnect switch to disengage my AP. They said use the trim switch or the button on the KFC150 instead. It's hard to stop but I'm slowly getting it done. A quick touch of the trim switch does it. It sounds like the failure of that switch is a thing they see commonly. I don't know how long my plane had that switch or if it was ever replaced in the past. I wish I could repurpose it to fire missiles.

Okay, first, thanks everyone for the help. So yesterday we were prepping to depart Springdale, AR. My wife was videoing the electric trim issue. However, there was really nothing to see. It behaved exactly the way it was supposed to. I switched on the Master Power, then the Master Radio, then the Electric Trim Rocker Switch on the panel. When I engaged the rocker switches on the yoke, it moved fine. When I pressed the Test button on the KFC150, the Trim light blinked 4 times. Video Link Since we were passing right by Don Maxwell, we decided to stop and talk to them. While on approach to GGG the electric trim failed again. After discussing it with Don, he decided the problem must be a faulty AP disconnect switch. We got in the plane, I showed him the electric trim wasn't working. Then, after fiddling with the AP disconnect switch, we got it to work, clearly implicating the switch. He had one of his guys replace it right then and there. I feel confident that was the issue and everything worked fine for the next two legs of our flight. So, the switch was apparently breaking electrical contact potentially due to movement from turbulence or me bumping the yoke. They disassembled the old switch and burn marks were clearly visible inside. I also got to see this cool experimental Mooney "Predator" built for the Air Force by Mooney. It has a canopy and a stick rather than a yoke and is fully aerobatic. So, the stop really worked out for me.

Doh! Yeah. Okay. When the elec trim fails the AP kicks off. So no light then. But after, turning the AP back on, and selecting the Test, the Trim light does indeed flash constantly. I will get a video on Monday when i am going to be returning from our weekend trip. Thanks for the help.

What trim light is flashing? Where? What would I video? thanks

The autopilot is a KFC150 and interfaces to the G600 with the GAD64E. Im not sure about what kind of electric trim it is. We had the servo fail 18 months ago. I bought and installed a used one while i sent my original off to be rebuilt. After the unit was returned, we decided there was no need to put it in since the used one was functioning fine. But now 18 months later, with the constant failures that just started recently, we put the rebuilt unit in hoping it would solve the problem but it didn’t. Thanks everyone for helping me think about it.

My 1998 J loses the electric trim almost every flight at some point. It causes the AP to kick off. We replaced the trim servo hoping that would resolve the issue but it persists. When it fails, it stays failed for the rest of the flight. There is no tripped breaker. Fiddling with the electric trim rocker switch does not help. After shutdown, and turning master and radio switch back on does not fix it. If I walk away and call the mechanic to look at it, its always working for him when he gets to it the next day. When i return to fly again, its working again until sometime during the flight. What could it be? I don’t think its the yoke switch because if it were the yoke switch the AP would probably keep working. Any help would be appreciated. It stopped working and kicked off the AP just as i entered IMC. Took me a few seconds to realize what was happening.

Thanks @Fly Boomer! I believe I have located the appropriate POH version. Apparently, @M20Doc has a large collection and was able to provide me with a digital copy. Thanks for everyone's help!

Thanks...

GM MS-- Does anyone have a link to somewhere I can download a digital copy of the 1998 M20J POH? Thanks for any help.