TNIndy

Looks Great!

We added the two lines and saw a noticeable increase in MP. Unfortunately not as much as the STC shows. at 10,500 ft I'm seeing 24.5". One odd thing is that when I engage the turbo I see an immediate decrease in fuel pressure then it recovers over the next couple minutes. I would expect a drop but not a 60% drop. If I turn the boost pump on it recovers immediately and maintains even if I turn the boost back off quickly. Thanks for everyone's help. I will continue to look for airflow leaks in an effort to see more boost.

Sorry for the confusion. The air bleed line is connected to the fuel pump. The two fittings at the air box don't have anything connected.

So why do you think it runs well now? Those fittings have been disconnected for years, I don't get much boost with the turbo engaged but I do get about 3 to 4 psi.

I've got the correct routing from Rajay. I need to dig through the logs and other STC's to see if I can find any mention of why they were rerouted. The sad thing is that three different shops worked on the MP issue. Turbo has been off twice for testing and inspecting. No one noticed two open fittings coming out of the air box. Thanks to everyone for the help. Once I get this all worked out, I will post what we find.

It's going to the fuel pump. The last picture shows it terminating at the fuel pump.

Looks like it is routed straight to the fuel pump. It was difficult to get good pics. I haven't had issues other than getting enough boost from the turbo

The line is rerouted and connected behind the engine under the mags. All I had was my cell phone light so I couldn't see much. I will look again tonight and see if I can trace it down.

Thanks, this helps. Sounds like we should cap them off to see if MP increases and start reviewing all the STC’s to see if we can find a reason both lines were rerouted.

Thanks for the help. My MP tops out just under 22 at 11,500 ft. Am I incorrect in the assumption that those two fittings being open allow MP to bleed off? My injector bleed runs to the rear of the engine under the mag but I can’t see where it ends.

We've been working on getting rated boost from our Rajay turbo system. Sent the turbo to Maine Turbo for bench testing, had then waste gate adjusted then verified it's closing fully with an endoscope. Now we are looking at airflow and ducting again. We noticed two fittings that no longer have anything connected. Can anyone tell me what these are? The pic is of the pilot side of the aluminum box that the turbo boost air enters. It seems these would be constantly leaking boost pressure.

One option may be to find a local Mooney pilot with several years of experience and ask them to go up for an hour or so. Together you may see something and short cut lots of troubleshooting on your own. I'm fortunate to have two semi local CFI's with Mooney's and I learn something every time they fly with me.

I used the product Jaeger suggests. I attached a picture. It's not cheap but is durable. For holes with cracks I used fiberglass resin and woven fiberglass mesh. When everything was repaired I sent the pieces to Hector at AeroComfort and had them covered in ultraleather. For me, it was a much bigger project than I anticipated. But then, all of my projects are bigger than I anticipate. Some of us never learn.

Yes, you have to pay upfront but there aren't many other options. The shop got a second quote for $1378 so that made the $685 seem a little better

I had mine rebuilt at Aeromotors earlier this year. $685 plus.......

My mechanic suggested that I swap out my remaining 4 massive electrode plugs with Tempest fine wire. All roughness is gone! Now I need to determine the correct mixture with the turbo engaged without CHT’s creeping up.

Everything worked well as far as registering. Appreciate all the effort that goes into these events. Enjoyed last year

I haven’t tried it above 10,500. I’ll look back at my engine trends to see how rich I was running but I feel certain I wasn’t as high as 12 GPH. I appreciate your help

GAMI spread is usually right at 1 GPH. I will have to see if the spread is more with the turbo engaged. I am getting GAMI injectors installed in August so that will improve. Cylinders do peak in the same order whether the turbo is engaged or not. I hadn't thought of an intake leak but we can easily check that on the ground.

I have a 67 M20F with a Rajay Turbo. I've owned the plane for a couple of years but haven't been using the turbo because of an oil leak in the turbo system. Long story......in summary I had the turbo bench tested, it tested fine and we ended up replacing a check valve. Now that the oil leak is finally fixed, I have been trying to use the turbo. The engine runs rough with the turbo engaged. I get boost and increased speed but the roughness is noticeable. Previously I assumed I was fowling plugs because of oil making it to the cylinders via the turbo. Also, I have an Electroaire system with Tempest fine wire plugs. The other four are massive electrode. It doesn't seem to make a difference if I am running LOP or ROP I appreciate any thoughts or suggestions

I think your costs look a little high in a couple places but once you add back GPS, Foreflight, other charts etc. It probably evens out. (I have separate charts for the Dynon and Avidyne) The real question, as others have pointed out, is what do things cost during the first year. I think the shop that did my prebuy was pretty good and the shop that did my first annual. Things still failed shortly after both that added up quick. It feels like the more I fly, the less I spend in maintenance if that makes any since. Also, fix each item as it comes up, things add up if you wait.

I agree with pirep from y2kiah although I am not aware of the lead wire connections being designed for automotive plugs. I have the Electroair system on my turbo normalized M20F. The system works well and the guys at Smooth Power are great to work with. I like the push button start rather than the key also.

I didn't reply to the state of TN quick enough because I was working out of town. Their assessment was less than I paid so I ended up paying less. This was in 2021

I hope it turns out well. It's great to see it being saved rather than used for parts. Keep in mind that although it's expensive to fix everything while it's apart, it's much more expensive to take things apart multiple times.

That's was the original plan. I couldn't get the front end pulled forward enough to take it loose. I pulled it out today after removing the rear clamp and hope to reinstall tomorrow with Teflon coated stainless spring wire.