PilotCoyote

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About PilotCoyote

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  • Location
    Norcal
  • Model
    1964 M20D/C

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  1. I just found this older thread on changing out the bushings- nice documentation with videos too....
  2. Working on the main gear this week while I wait for the left tank to cure (access panels are back in and I’ll be painting them on Sunday). I’m going to be installing oversized main gear retract link bushings this weekend, so I just removed the left gear from the wing. Dan at LASAR gave me a tip about a method to remove the retract spring, and it worked (the second time). I picked up a stack of fender washers and with the main gear fully extended, I inserted the washers into the spring coils.. the flower petal arrangement worked best. I then retracted the gear by pushing directly on it , and what do you know- the spring stopped compressing before the gear was fully retracted- I was able to easily remove the bolt holding the spring and then pull the whole gear out. I’ll post pics of the links being reamed and the new bushings going in this weekend.
  3. Yes, I wouldn't expect to get a lot for them, but I would expect to get more than I would for a set that hadn't been overhauled... So he would get something back, as opposed to throwing the overhaul money away. I was confronted with the same choice months ago, but since I already had a couple of EI gauges for fuel flow and temps, upgrading to a full primary gauge replacement system with elec senders didn't really make sense to me. Every owner has a different situation, I think. I'd love to have a new JPI, but it just isn't in the cards right now... I'm too busy fixing $$ the bones in my plane
  4. It would seem that as long as you can confirm that your factory gauges are functioning properly, that overhauling the original senders makes the most sense...until you are ready ($$$$) to upgrade to something like the JPI. Whe the time comes to upgrade, there will no doubt be plenty of people willing to buy your old sending units to help offset the cost f the CIES units. Just my .02
  5. What kills me is that nearly every owner of a plane that has been sitting for years fails to preserve the engine. I know it’s not a magic bullet, but- They’ll pay hangar rent for years to house it, but they won’t spend a couple of hours and a couple hundred bucks to preserve the most valuable component of their asset.- the engine. Years later, potential buyers shy away and the plane’s value invariably suffers and then somebody else has to roll the dice when they buy it. It almost seems passive aggressive... It is neither difficult nor costly to preserve a Lycoming- just do it!
  6. I had a Luscombe that was polished... I used to buy Mother’s Mag and Aluminum polish by the quart directly from the factory because I was going through so much of it. Keeping it looking spiffy totally wore me out. the shine would last about 3 weeks in Florida. Maybe it wouldn’t be so bad in a place like Phoenix..?
  7. All very true.... But I still think the GPS 175 is a great alternative to spending $5k an old 430 unit if you already have radios.
  8. The Garmin GPS 175 is only $5000 new. If you’ve already got nav and comm radios, a GPS 175 with a G5 HSI is a low cost route to LPV approaches
  9. This might kill my plans to find an old 430 unit and install it!
  10. Ok thanks. It’s an old SB from 1967- it is also an AD and most likely would have been complied with on your plane a long, long time ago...although the link lubrication is the recurring portion. I only gave it as a reference regarding removing the links. Maybe somebody else here has changed them on an early serial numbered aircraft...?
  11. Alex, not sure whether you have had to deal with your main gear retracting links yet, but my D needs the bushings replaced on both sides... SBM20-155 SBM20-155 deals with the retrofit of the new style retract links (which I have), and states that for the earlier D serial number planes (those manufactured prior to SN 252), that you can’t simply unbolt the rear bearing block and swing the rear of the gear into the corner to change the links- you’ve got to remove the entire gear from the wing. I’m not sure what changed with the later serial numbered aircraft that makes this job easier... If you did have to replace your links or bushings, did you find it necessary to completely remove the gear from the wing? Not looking forward to this chore! Looks like I’ll have to make a main gear spring removal/install tool as well. Any info appreciated. Thanks, Dave
  12. My three new Condor Tires were spin balanced with red dot at the valve stem and it took a lot more weight than I would have guessed to balance each one.
  13. Boy, sure did misread the original post...
  14. It just occurred to me that a MP gauge that is reading too low will not be the result of a leaking line; a leak in the line will produce a higher MP than normal... Sorry about that!