mike42

I would put it on electrical and the door handle, but keep it off the rubber CorrosionX helps electronics in your car or boat Spray onto battery posts Wipe onto accessory plugs that go into the lighter socket Dip and wipe connector ends of cables to navigators, charging cradles and other accessories CorrosionX is also a great lubricant and protectant: Wet your car and boat keys with CorrosionX, insert into each lock and remove, then wipe off excess CorrosionX helps your PC Inside the case, wipe onto or into PCI card fingers and slots, memory card fingers and slots, SATA drive connections, DC power connections, fan connectors and header pins Outside the case, wipe to apply to USB sockets, audio connectors, external drive connectors and the AC power connector Dip PC cable ends into CorrosionX and wipe off excess with a soft cloth How an Almost Perfect Conductor can be an Almost Perfect Insulator CorrosionX bonds with an underlying metal conductor as a Fluid Thin Film Coating (FTFC) that is just one molecule thick (0.0004"); when you place two such treated conductors in contact with each other, the resistance between them is only about 0.1 Ohm. So why doesn't it short out adjacent conductors? A separation of even just a faction of a millimeter is so many molecules wide that it exhibits a resistance beyond the billions of Ohms that our instrumentation can measure. In practical terms, it's an insulator. http://www.corrosionx.com/corrosionx-aviation.html

"SkyBeacon must be mounted with the fin pointing down to ensure proper performance. It must be installed at least 3 feet from any operating transponder antenna. To ensure performance of the integrated altitude encoder, the wire bundle exiting the skyBeacon enclosure must not be further sealed. This area functions as the static pressure sensing port." From the TSO instillation manual.

That is pretty funny, and has a grain of truth. But I would argue if you have two watches and they both have the same time, you know what time it really is. If you only have one watch, and it runs slow, you will always be late. But If you have two watches and one is off, I would try to figure out which on was wrong and fix it. I was with a friend with a new engine in a Diamond DA40 he was breaking it "in" when on start up it showed zero oil pressure, he stopped the engine for fear of no oil pressure, bad oil pump etc. we cancelled the flight and had his mechanic look at the engine, it was a bad probe. If he had a back up gauge that showed that he had oil pressure and everything else looked normal, we probably would have flown. The same thing can happen when you are traveling, during run up, if a primary gauge is found not working but the backup gauge is working, you probably make the flight back home (legally) and have your mechanic fix it. If you only have one gauge, you do not know if it is a gauge problem or a real problem and thus are stuck on the field until you figure it out if it is a gauge problem or real problem. Even if it is only a gauge problem, you probably should not take off and fly until the gauge if fixed. Give Rudys a call, they might be able to fix your fuel transducer for you. http://rudyaircraftinstruments.com I have had good experience with them and they are pretty inexpensive. I had a problem on the first really cold day of the year last winter), My engine would not warm up to the green on my electronic engine monitor, after cross checking with my old gauge which showed that the engine was in the green, we made the flight, later found out it was probe placement with the electronic engine monitor, worked well in the summer, not so well in the winter. If not for that I would have cancelled the flight.

I really do not know why someone would want to take out the old existing gauges (besides panel appearance). I would much rather have a duel backup for each gauge the original and the electronic. Much safer in my opinion. The biggest advantage of the electronic gauges is that they will give you an early annunciation warning visual/audible of an engine problem. I use it on takeoff, it is an easy go/ no go if I have a red light flashing, it is a no go. Much safer than trying to scan all the gauges just before rotation in my opinion. Another advantage of the electronic gauges, is that you will be alerted much sooner in a drop of amperage or voltage than the old gauges. Of course if the whole thing goes out, it might be a good idea to get on the ground ASAP and find out what is going wrong. (Unless you kept your old gauges) The advantage of the old gauges is that they are rock solid and seem like they just work, but they are just not as sensitive, but they do provide a good cross reference. The biggest advantage of the CGR 30-P is that it just takes up one 3” hole for everything so that you can keep all your old gauges. Mike

I would just keep your original fuel senders (gauges), they are needed but not very accurate as a general rule. You will just end up using the "switch tank" function on the CGR 30p anyway. The CGR-30P fuel flow sensor is extremely accurate and you will know how much fuel you have per tank based on the actual calculated fuel flow rate (it is off by 0.5 gallons per 30 gallon tank. The CGR-30P will also remind you when to switch your tanks every 5 to 10 gallons (your choice). It also gives you an endurance time based on your current fuel flow rate and total number of gallons left in your plane. To reset the gauge after fill up, there is a one button push to default to full tanks, which is quick and easy (on the start up screen). Mike