wburger1

Thanks you for the pirep.

3 hours ago, DCarlton said:

Got a rough idea what it cost without having to do too much digging to find it?  Thanks.  

It was less than $1700 installed including the windshield.  I got the same thickness and went with the clear one which still has a little gray color in it.  Don't think he had to modify any parts to do it. 

I had mine replaced by JD in Smithville, TX.  I had the 201 SWTA mod on my 1967 M20F.   He did a great job by the way.

I sent Jan an email yesterday asking the same questions and am waiting on a reply.   I could not find that information anywhere on the web.

Carl Sharon owner of Houston Tank Specialties at Eagle Lake TX (KELA) does Tank repairs, Maintenance and Annuals on Vintage Mooneys.    He did a tank strip and reseal  and my last annual. Very highly recommend him.

10 minutes after posting this I actually got a call from Lasar.   Did one of you give them a nudge?  If so thank you!

I got Lasar to answer the phone about a month ago to get a pilot 8 hole panel and they told me they were on order.   Of course they do not show the panels on the parts section of the website. They did respond on a chat a few weeks ago and said Dan would send me a diagram of the panel but I never received it.  Now They don't reply to email, chat or answer any phones.  Are they still in business?

I just called the Aloft motel where I made my reservation and it had not been cancelled even though the motel knew the summit was cancelled.  I cancelled mine today with no penalty for not checking in tomorrow.

Lasar now has the new step springs in stock so I ordered one.  Anyone have any instructions how to install them or it is just easy to slide it in and out?

Thank You,  Walt

I called Bob and his idea worked!  Put a feeler gauge and found the mounting screw that was blocking the lower left from sliding out.  Slightly pried the radio to the right and out it came.  Both of the lower screws got left out so that will not happen again.  I have a rack above and below the 430W so I should be fine. The Garmin 430W radio has an opening on both sides on the bottom which can get caught on the rack mounting screws.  They should have designed the rack to have the mounting holes an inch higher.

Thank you Bob!!!

35 minutes ago, carusoam said:

Tradition for how radio racks and lugs work….

A certain amount of turning gets the lug oriented for sliding out…

Over turning makes the opposite end of the lug protrude by a small amount, blocking the way…

Counting the turns may help identify the spot that works…

 

PP thoughts based on BK experience only… it might work in a pinch…  

Best regards,

-a-

When I took out the tray under it I can see the lug but it does not seem to be keeping it from sliding out.  It is definitely  blocked by something but don't think it is the lug.  I will try different positions of the lug on Tuesday when I go back.   Thank you for the information.  Walt

I am having difficulty sliding mu Garmin 430W out of the tray.  I removed the lower and upper tray to make sure they were not pressing against it but it wont come out.  It does comes out about 1/2" by unscrewing it then stops.  Tried moving it back and forth with no luck.  Any suggestions? 

Just now, Tom 4536 said:

Where is Tankman?

Eagle Lake, TX Airport.  KELA.  About 45 miles west of Houston.

Tankman (Carl Sharon) completely stripped and resealed both of my tanks for my 67F 2 years ago and did a great job.  The last person that did work on my tanks used the wrong sealant, installed the incorrect drain plugs and had vents sealed up.  Carl identified the previous problems and completed the job keeping me updated on his progress until it was complete.  No leaks so far.  Walt

Please send me a PM.  Walt

After landing mine only comes down about 1/2 way.  I have to step on it to bring it down all the way.  Greased it with no luck. 

On 10/29/2020 at 8:26 PM, jamesm said:

Will MacFarlane notch out the slot for micro switches for throttle position  for gear warning ?

Yes.   I got my throttle cable from them and the notch was cut out.  Careful with the micro switch.  The positive screw is very close to the micro-switch board.  I had to file mine down as it kept shorting to ground. 

I have pictures of my old M20C ignition switch that has numbers on it but not sure how it was numbered. 

I just saw my old 1963 M20C is being sold on EBAY due to gear collapsing after JBAR came out of down lock block on roll out after landing.  Makes me want to replace mine on my 67F.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1963-MOONEY-M20C-3775-TT-COMPLETE-AIRFRAME-WITH-BELLY-SCRAPING-NEW-INTERIOR-/133467181711?ul_noapp=true&nma=true&si=ILhMocp4t3kWGvqR01GsF7SgXy0%3D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

I was very close to the red on original garwin oil temp gauge even when it was 45 degrees outside climbing and in cruise.   Took out oil temp probe  and put it in 200 degree oil and it actually read 200.  Before I put it in oil it read OAT.  Then I took out vernatherm and put it in oil and heated the oil and it did not open until 225 degrees.  So I got a new vernatherm and now I am in the green even when 95 degrees outside.  One note is that when I heated the oil it took a really long time to cool the oil down. Like 15 minutes for just a few degrees.  My vernatherm was original to my 67 M20F. 

Anyone have that knob that goes on the duct assembly in a 1967 M20F?  Part number is S6844-605.  There are actually two of them under the panel so I was going to take the one I still have off and try to find a knob that is the same size. 

I tried to renew with MAPA online but the website does not allow you to do that.  Then I emailed MAPA and did not get a response I called MAPA and no one answered the phone so 

I left a message and did not get a response.  What else can I do?  Is MAPA GONE NOW???

On 12/30/2019 at 6:27 PM, Yetti said:

I sacrificed a 5/16 allan wrench about 2" long.  Then use a socket and drive to turn it.    The key is to get the plunger in the most up position.  Turn prop and feel plunger with finger.   Be able to work by feel not by sight.  

Thank you Yeti.  I will try that tomorrow.  FYI we were both born on Earth Day!

On 11/18/2019 at 2:40 PM, Yetti said:

I bought the rebuild but should have just got new as they are $50 more or so.   Replaced with the mags on.   had to sacrifice a 5/16 allen wrench.   About 4 hours to replace.   About 6 hours the first time.

You said you replaced the fuel pump without removing the mag.   Do you have any advice or hints?  Thanks.

10 hours ago, carusoam said:

You know they are original.... or old enough...

1) Often they are not in the current ‘standard’ order of operation... throttle, prop, mixture...

2) They have no color.... currently, black, blue, and red denote what the controls are supposed to be for....

3) If they creep due to vibration...

4) If they don’t move smoothly...

5) they typically get checked at annual... but most owners would probably replace them faster than most mechanics say they are due... 

 

Soooo.... if you got 50 years out of the controls... you can feel good about getting your money’s worth out of them... they might even make some good artwork for your hangar or office...

PP thoughts only, not a mechanic...

Best regards,

-a-

I have been flying only vintage Mooneys for 25 years and I am used to the  Throttle Mixture Prop order.  But you are correct on needing to replace all three of them.