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Everything posted by SkyTrekker

  1. I purchased Sporty's IFR course a few months ago and have been working my way through it, a few videos at a time. I think it is a pretty good value. Would buy it again and would recommend it to others. Have not tried any other providers' courses, so not sure how well it compares. After I start IFR flight instruction and when I'm closer to the written test date, I may buy a different course, perhaps King, to augment my training.
  2. SkyTrekker


    From the album: N9440V

  3. SkyTrekker

    Interior After

    From the album: N9440V

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    From the album: N9440V

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    From the album: N9440V

  6. SkyTrekker


    From the album: N9440V

  7. SkyTrekker


    From the album: N9440V

  8. SkyTrekker


    From the album: N9440V

  9. SkyTrekker


    From the album: N9440V

  10. SkyTrekker


    From the album: N9440V

  11. SkyTrekker


    From the album: N9440V

  12. SkyTrekker

    Interior Before 1

    From the album: N9440V

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    Interior Before 1

  14. SkyTrekker

    A couple of questions from a newbie

    I took my first lesson at 49. 10 hours in my instructor's Cub, 10 hours in the C-172 rental, and then bought my Mooney and completed my training in that. Finished up my PPL a few months ago. This approach has worked really well for me.
  15. SkyTrekker

    Thank you

    I'm sorry for your loss, Don. -Sia
  16. Is there a sign-up list??? :-)
  17. Thanks everyone for the input! I'll check in with a shop to see about adding a doubler under the cracked areas. The hinge is not sloppy, so I think we are good there.
  18. I've done my best searching for posts here related to the top cowl cracking around the oil access door, but all I'm finding are posts on the later model fiberglass tops. When I bought the E in May of last year, I noted, and it was reflected on the pre-buy, that there were thin cracks (one about an inch and a half long) in the top cowl starting at the outer corners of the hinge points, moving away from the oil door. The cracks had been stop-drilled at a couple of points and the (well-known and respected on this forum) IA did not make a special point of it to me, so I assumed it was a common thing. Today I noticed that while the cracks have not pushed past the drill points, a small triangular piece (~1/8") of the top cowl abutting one of the cracks at one off the edges has come off, and a hinge (or repair) rivet that was previously there is gone. During flight, I've noticed that the oil door corners vibrate up away from the cowl top in a very high frequency flutter. It did that from the beginning, but now it seems to be fluttering up a little higher above the cowl than before. A few questions: Is this something that happens often? I can't find a single reference anywhere. Is there any way to 'more permanently' fix the cowl cracks? Or is my only real option to replace the entire top cowl? (Which sounds daunting, and expensive, since I understand each of our planes is hand built and no two are identical.) It is making me uneasy since I have to think that the vibrations will cause the cracks to grow and ultimately the oil access door and (possibly more) will separate during flight and crack the windshield or damage the rudder or elevator controls. Does that sound about right? Appreciate any insight or thoughts, especially from those who have observed this condition before.
  19. Thanks for the thoughts, @carusoam I was planning on having the prop dynamically balanced, but am moving that up to asap due to the impact of vibrations to this issue. I always avoid my red arc on my tach (I don't have any yellow on mine :-) Been considering installing GAMI injectors at some point. Rubber engine mounts sound like a good idea. That said, and either way, I'll need to repair this. Trying to understand what my options are, and what the implications of the current condition of the cowl are. Here is a pic. This frame looks like it captured the fluttering when the door was at its highest point of cycle, furthest way from the rest of the cowl surface. I circled the drill points and the arrow points to the missing rivet and missing small section of cowl surface that I mentioned in opening post.
  20. SkyTrekker

    Wife’s pic

    My little contribution...a recent pic over central Texas...
  21. SkyTrekker

    1969 Dimmer Control Needed

    @Freemasm, Thanks for the helpful information! My control box is not like the one pictured in this post, but it is exactly like yours, as pictured in the post you referenced. Will see what I can figure out. -Sia
  22. SkyTrekker

    1969 Dimmer Control Needed

    As it happens I'm having trouble with my 1970 E dimmer unit, too. Welcome any suggestions/comments. Everything in the unit functions except the panel lights do not come on at all when I rotate the dimmer/switch. At one time I could see a very faint light coming from behind the panel when I turned the rotary dimmer switch on. But now I don't even see that. Is it likely a problem with the dimmer/switch? Or just a fuse or resistor/capacitor that is part of the assembly? I've checked with Mooney and apparently the unit is not longer available, so I'm likely looking at finding a used unit somewhere or repairing mine, and to be honest, I'm not sure where to start. Appreciate any suggestions. Update: I just saw @Aerodon's post regarding max pulse/maxdim units. So there is an alternate replacement option if repair is difficult? -Sia
  23. SkyTrekker

    Dynon Certified thread

    Thank you to the last several posters. Much clearer now on the implications of auto trim vs. not. Based on this additional understanding, I still think that the Skyview with my manual trim will meet all of my needs. -Sia