MIm20c

The g5 is a great unit but very limited on what sources it can display from. The only way to show an ILS is to have a gps/nav/com like a 430w/440/650 that can switch internally. The 255 nav/com can also display on the g5 but I’m not sure if three i/o can be used (gps, nav/com, and AP out), I think the limit is two. If you went with the 275 HSI you might have more flexibility, not sure.

IIRC the kfc-225 would automatically adjust altitude after a baro change. Not sure if your 297 or 130 is malfunctioning or the Aspen installer just cut the wrong wires. They might have connected the AP to a blind encoder vs the 130? The altitude preselect originally was driven off the encoding altimeter. The g500 glass (via the gad 43e) and maybe the 275 w/ legacy interface can output the encoding altimeter info but the Aspen boxes cannot. I think that’s part of the confusion above… the garmin gad 43e does output the info and the Aspen ea100 does not.

I would recommend replacing at least the left panel to update it to a standard six pack configuration. Keep in mind your current g5 with not be connected to anything. Both that unit and your new g5 (the HSI) will need to be rewired and connected to a gad 29b in order to interface with the 175 and your stec AP.

FIFY Lots of experience responding above. IMO your panel is strip to the bones and rebuild setup. Short of that just repair as needed and fly the thing.

Looking at the panel I think you’re going to find a mess of wires behind it. I’d personally fly it like it is. If you decide to open it up at the very the least make two new panels, clean up all the wires, add a g5, complete the package with a Garmin 175 navigator. Are you sure that’s not an HSI currently installed in the panel?

Flying out of annual for the past 12 hours of flight. That’s a pretty open ended ferry permit :)

I just notice a picture of your panel. One thing that the ea100 lacks is an encoding altimeter output. Your kfc150 needs that for proper altitude preselect operation. I would leave the panel alone.

You mentioned a king AP and did not specify having a 256 attitude indicator. This means your panel probably utilizes an ea100 interface which is a nice feature to have. I’m not sure if things have changed but the g5 is only approved for backup with garmin pfd’s. However, I think it’s common practice to use it as a backup AI now. This is why the altimeter and airspeed indicator were retained. Probably the cheapest way to remove the other round gauges is to keep an eye out for a used L3 esi500 to replace your g5, they do become available every so often. I think you’ll find panel work is expensive…you’ll be over $40k before you know it.

The MP gauge on the Moritz is a common failure point. We spent a lot of time trying to solve the problem and even used a Mooney schematic that utilized a replacement MP sensor. Nothing worked and 900 was installed. Having said that if you’re looking to save money used EI MP gauges are really cheap and there are tons of pulled Moritz head units rotting on shelves to solve problems down the road.

Did you utilize the voltage or resistive input? Did you run new wires or tie into existing? I’d start with the wiring…

Agree with Lance about the sticking outboard fuel sensor. I would have that checked first. I’ve not heard of any fuel quantity malfunctions with the lovely moritz system, normally it’s the tach or MP gauge that push people to trash the system. @M20R if you need some extra components to troubleshoot/fix the system let me know.

Finally! This place is slipping at spending OPM…

I don’t care if the ovation has two batteries and a backup alternator. If the main one fails I’m landing ASAP. Same failure killed an A36 pilot a few years back, the engine sometimes stops if the chunks get in the wrong spot. Looking back I would absolutely get a reman vs overhauling the engine.

Similar thing happened to us. You probably messed up the gear on the crank as well. Might as well tack another 10k to the price for a new/used crank.

Having grown up on the water I think both of you are correct. The difference is the type of boat you are referring to. The inboard ski boats are geared down and often have a mid mount engine. The OB and I/O boats are often a lot more efficient (think mpg) on plane and trolling. The following graphs are showing a ski boat vs a fishing CC. Nevermind, site won’t let me attach anymore… Mastercraft Robalo

On certified known ice systems the light is always installed how yours is. The inadvertent systems are different and many don’t even have a light or a slinger ring on the prop. I’ve seen a couple systems that were added just to cover hail damage on the wings after the owner pushed through some rough weather.

Just for fun I looked at leasing. This is for 3 years and 30k miles. It would cost me $26k for those 30k miles with no buyout option. That equals $0.87 per mile.

I actually really like hybrids! Very excited about the Maverick and I also would be thrilled with a hybrid (lots of models) from Toyota and Honda. I’ve also owned the Tesla stock for a long time, back before anyone thought the stock would take off. The Model S is the only one I like the look of but that’s a personal choice. C&D did a two year test and showed exactly what they paid per mile. It was exactly what it costs fuel wise for a Prius (at current $3.85). The hybrid midsize sedans get roughly the same mileage. I still can’t see how the 3 is half the cost when the fuel costs the same and the purchase price is much less. So the Tesla service department just changed the fuse on that car? Can you buy them at Napa and install them yourself? Show me where I can start a 3 year lease for a total of 10% of the car value. I’ll sign up tonight. I’m pretty sure tesla just made a policy you can’t buy out your lease. What are current lease terms?

I think there are many cases where the above would be true and the EV car would be cheaper. However, you really need a passion for flying or desire to drive an EV to make it worth it. Saying one particular model of a car is the end all perfect choice is just justifying your reasoning to the world…who really don’t care. My guess is they’ll ship off a lot of (50% life) batteries to poor countries who will utilize the remaining capacity. The real question is will they ship them back at great expense to be recycled or just toss them in the landfill over there. I hauled in my old $600 aircraft battery to the recycler a couple weeks ago. Came out with just enough to cover my gas to drive there…now if I was driving an EV…;)

Build quality, long term reliability, performance, and size? We’ll it looks like an updated Geo Metro but I’ll compare it directly to a Toyota Camry or Honda Accord. What’s the average cost per mile these days, national average including depreciation, insurance, taxes, registration, maintenance, etc…. Guessing it’s over $0.50 a mile. Please explain how your Tesla is going to be sooo much cheaper than buying a Prius at half the cost as you save $0.05 per mile. You honestly remind me of friends and family that keep telling me I’m saving so much money flying my Mooney vs Southwest.

I was thinking we needed another Tesla thread… Ironically I just picked up a Car and Driver magazine to read about the GT4. Inside there was a long term review of the Model 3, less than 2 years and 40k miles. The cost at the “pumps” was $3413 using a super charger 43% of the time (8.5c per mile). At 5k miles towed to the dealer to replace rear motor. Battery lost 6% of its capacity in the first year but remained the same on the second. Tesla warranty on the battery is 70% after 8 years, curious what a 15 yo battery will hold 60-70% of delivered range…?

You won’t be able to easily flush mount the plate because the the screw mounts (fixed in place) will still show and it will not be aesthetically pleasing. It’ll look fine with a one piece thin sheet with beveled edges. The most important thing is to really match the powder coat…both color and texture. Just unscrew one of the Moritz boxes, you’ll see what I’m trying to describe. If you wanted to drill out the nut plates and flush rivet the panel that would look nice but you would need to remove the panel and refinish it IMO. I have my old panel at the hangar or in my basement if you need a picture of it. We used a temporary surface mount fill panel cut around a vertically mounted JPI 900 before overhauling the entire panel.

This thread makes me chuckle…. Can’t believe how much energy some have put into it defending their car choice.

I would use a single piece of 0.100 aluminum to cover the Moritz holes utilizing the outer 4 screws. Have the shop bevel the edges, powder coat to match, and reuse the screws (shortened). Without a doubt I would mount the JPI (landscape orientation) using the lower right 3 1/8 hole and extending over the ATI opening (which I would remake to be flush or at least powder coat to match).

Oh my, in a TP IV that had to be really exciting…not in a good way. We’re ready for the full story when you are. I’m glad you got your old plane back with all the good memories it brings back.