Bryan

Calling as well. Thanks

I think I am going to try this next. Bought the "Form a Funnel" off of Amazon but need to punch a couple of holes in the top corners so tie the safety wire too and then punch the old filter to let it drain using the form-a-funnel to direct to my collection tray. I, too, fill as much of the new filter as I can before screwing back on.

Another 252 pilot at my field uses this "Form a Funnel" http://amzn.to/2tHxdD6 with safety wired in place to catch the drips and funnel them to the collection tray. I have also heard of using baby diapers around the filter in my 231 to catch as much. It *worked* mostly but the angle was hard to get the filter off without spilling more outside - I still made a *smaller* mess. I have also heard a large ziplock bag or two around works well. I have done two oil changes so far so I have not perfected my method yet.

I have a newly installed GTN 750 and it is a breeze to use. I also have a backup 430 in there and I can just about program any route with procedures in the 750 in the time it takes to get a DirectTo airport into the 430. I was skeptical at first about being able to touch the right keys especially on the soft-keyboard or number pad but anchoring my hands on one side for the other make the touchscreen very usable in turbulence. Pinch to zoom and panning is nearly as good as using an iPad.

The other side (on mine) has already been replaced with a different unit. It may take some time to get the news on in and installed but will get you this part when I am done.

LEDs ordered, here is a picture of what I think you are looking for.

Are the ballasts for these in the wing or in the fuse? I have not gotten that far to look yet.

Sorry, just got back from vacation. I have what you need. I will snap a picture to be sure on Wednesday. I am ordering the LED replacements tomorrow.

My '82 M20K 231 cowl flaps open pretty easily on the ground but I experience the same thing: Difficult to close at speed. Following to find out if there is something that could be better.

I might have one, too, painted that color even. Will look and let you know.

Yes, the first line is a typo. A brand new GTX 345 is $5000. I think the upgrade is $2000-2200 for the GTX330. The others look correct.

Sounds like an oil discussion - everyone has their favorites. I went with Garmin. I had dual 430s (non-waas) and upgraded to a GTN 750 with a GTX 345 for my ADSB. The 650 and 750 have the ability to cross talk to a 430 but i use my (single) 430 as just a Nav/Com and GPS backup. Garmin's are more expensive. The Touch interface is very intuitive on the 750 and 650 - I love it.

I just upgraded to the GTN 750 replacing one of two of my GNS 430s (not waas) but never use the 430 other than a Nav/Com but it is nice to have a separate GPS with a different antenna. Also went with the GTX 345 which streams AHRS and GPS data to my iPad. Have not yet had a need to get the flightstream option ($1.5 AMU?) to edit my plans from iPad to GTN, yet. I don't have GPSS but that is next - waiting on possiblity of a G500 or an Aspen to give me than than salving GPSS to my KFC200. I agree on the larger screen. I *almost* went with the 650 instead but SOOO glad I sprung for the 750 instead. This thing is awesome, really don't use my iPad except for plates.

what does a travel board look like?

Was the GPS to VLOC issue to do with the ILS being in the standby vs. the active? FAA notes a GPS Flight Advisory today and tomorrow near my area so hopefully that is my issue but my suspicion is an antenna issue as the 430 had signal.

Sorry to bring up an old topic, @Marauder did you ever find anything on your GTN losing GPS? I have a new (2 month old) GTN 750 install that is starting to lose GPS more and more. Lost it today on both flights while working on my IFR training, once on an RNav Approach. I am thinking it could be equipment b/c my 430 (non-WAAS) did not lose signal.

Sold

I bought an '67 F earlier this year that was similarly priced but had new paint, new windows, cowl enclosure, and similar avionics and COMPLETE logs with no damage history for about the same price. Not allowing a MSC to do a PPI would be the red flag for me, too. I have since traded up for a 231 with brand new glass. I would have to agree with @gsxrpilot: Buy the the TOP of the line, most flown, best equipment you can afford for the model year that is in your budget.

What allows the 252 the bump in weight increase? I have a 231 with with an 826lb useful on it currently.

Taken and passed my written and working on my practical (in the air) in my new 231. Look forward to being able to fly in a lot more weather.

Just so happens, I had one yesterday - my first ever. I landed and got on the ground (no issues) but was off center-line while decelerating and yaw'd back over to get center and must have gotten on the brake instead of the rudder because left main half-worn tire locked up (my fault) and blew. It was a challenge to get her off the runway but made it to the taxiway where my local FBO came out to help but offered very little. We ended up using a floor jack with a scissor lift to get it up high enough to get the wheel off and down the road for a new tire/tube. The plane sit there on the runway taxiway for a couple of hours until I got a new tire put on. I went ahead and re-ordered another tire/tube for the other main. No damage to anything but the old tire, and my pride.

Charge it at 2amps up to 12.5, capacity check back down and the recharge it again and reinstalled it.

It appeared to be the battery. Pulled her out and recycled it and all appears to be good. Thinking about a BatteryMinder for this but it flys prolly 3-days a week (or more) for now. Any thoughts on getting one? Thanks for the help fellas!

Yes, Concorde battery: "Platinum Series" RG-35AXC. 33amps to 10 volts. I went ahead and pulled it out and stuck it on a low 2amp charge and will try again. The battery is just 18 months old so I am thinking either solenoid or starter. Is the starter solenoid firewall forward?

Hello MS'rs. I experienced a problem today that I think is starter related. I have an '82, new to me, M20K 231 that has been flown regularly. I have had the plane about 2-3 weeks and been going great until today. Went to go start the plane and when I hit the starter the prop spun 1/2 of a turn and stopped like it was a weak battery. I could not get past the compression stroke to kick it off. The battery appears to be a Concord as of Nov 2015 but cannot find the a log entry matching the upgrade. It appears to have a Gill prior to this but not pulled the battery (yet) to see the model. Visually, from the battery box it looks like the Concord. (picture attached) I got her started but not after rotating the prop back off the compression stroke back 3/4 of a turn and re-trying - it was enough to kick it over. Flew with no issues and no overworking alternator (working) issues. Landed 2 hours later and killed the engine and decided to try to re-start (hot) but ran into the same thing. BUS voltage according to my Insight G2 with the avionics on but not running is 11.8. I was able to put an analog battery meter on the terminals and the battery shows in the green (on this cheap meter). Is this a sign that my starter is going bad? No corrosion at the battery terminals and they are clean and tight. If the prop has enough swing she will kick off but close the compression stroke it sticks - no clicking. Will get my A/P to check it next but thought I would ask here to get some insight and be more informed.