Shiny moose

1 hour ago, Davidv said:

Little john (for ease of use) and then transfer to 64oz gatorade bottle when full.  The transfer method seems risky but I've never spilled a drop.  The little john alone could never do it for me on a 6 hr flight.

Same for me, although  I seldom have have to transfer! I find the simply lemonade bottles also very nice.  I dropped the cap on a full to the brim little john one time in a C425,  I had to have my boss hold the LJ level while I put my junk away and  searched under the seat. Funny we never discussed it 

Nope all gone !!!!!

10 minutes ago, N201MKTurbo said:

I wonder why everybody wants to change out their landing gear indicator lights to LEDs. I had a 67 M20F for 19 years. I flew it for 4500 hours. I never replaced those lights, they kept on going. Is that not reliable enough? 

I totally agree with you

Stated he has a 67F, unless changes have been made, no dimmer on the gear lights except the iris. How about a picture for all of us to see. 

I have to pee long long before I would need to run a tank dry!! 67F 

On a 67F it is not a complicated system. 

Build your own power setting chart for your airplane , if your working on your IR just do all except enroute at 90 knots. Climb,  decents, missed, holds, level, gear down at FAF, you choose approach flaps or not. Remeber DA and winds changing your GS will need small power adjustments

36 minutes ago, spectre6573 said:

So this might be really late however I did this to myself and after looking at other friends Mooney's on the field determined what dumb dumb move I did during reinstall.

I had the same issue when I put my gear doors back on and they are not over lapping doors and were trying to. I see from your video that the hinge hardware is outside the doors, and in all reality, the hinge is supposed to be covered by the NLG doors when closed. This means that you can not see the screws holding the hinge on because the door closes over them. From your video, it seams your doors are overlapping a lot and this is what mine did with no rigging change until I properly installed them like I mentioned.

I have to agree 

Missouir is not an aviation friendly state! 

10 hours ago, Will.iam said:

What pain. So do you pay less if you fly less or if you fly more?

Yup, 100 hours personal property tax was 990. 30 hours it was 126.  I would have to look up the law to be exact but its something like aircraft over 30 years old if flown more then 40 hours per year are considered at higher luxury rate.

My county(Jasper County Missouri) yearly personal poroperty tax is based not only on the value of the airplane but on the hours flown, I get called each year asking how many hours I have flown. 

 Do you have the correct switch? does it still have the shower of sparks, turn key and listen for it, you should hear it , push in key to turn starter, dont forget the small metal jumper on the switch to ground out mag during start

Triflow as stated above from Utah, do it often 

Replaced mine also with piano wire, clean wire good,  use good lube, use gloves to hold wire,  and take you time, made the exterior spiral bend before install, then cut and bend properly for interior connection 

keep it lubed !!!! 

You should just Remove all, examine all, clean all, ohm all, gap all. If this is an ongoing problem then find the cause, bad plug, intake leak, to rich mixture, oil fouled, wires old, mag issue, etc. 

If you havent found anyone by mid sept,  I will be flying my  67F to SFM, I could stop by KCON before during or after my visit 

My .02

Just make sure your using the correct PN for both alternator and regulator for your model aircraft.  There is a type A , a type B and  Type C .

When installing a JPI900 , I had a fluctuating amp reading ( not visable on the original guage). After days and days of troubleshooting and cleaning every electrical connection twice,brush check and cleaning, resistance checks, switchs checks and several phone calls. it was found that years ago  the wrong TYPE of VR was installed, It did the Job OK, unnoticable until JPI. Check your part numbers !!!

13 hours ago, RLCarter said:

Doors get tweaked over time, close a dollar bill (fully closed and latched) in multiple places, tug on the bill and see where it’s not snug. If it’s the top half it probably can be adjusted with the top latch

Door is not a probelm, Door not tweeked, Top snug and flush, lower main latch area is the area I would like to bring in and flush, wher it belongs, Im still looking for one 

Door closes fine but I would like door to close tighter along the door seal, Looking for sample to make one but want to keep mine on until new one is completed, Im slow and I figured it would be cheap enough 

I would like another striker plate, PN 310214.  very nice condition or well used doesnt matter 

I hope that Im interpeting this wrong, 

Gami wants the supply of 100LL at airports and trucks and storage diluted with thier G100UL, then you must buy from them an STC to use their fuel  or your not airworthy.  I really hope thats not the direction aviation is moving and smarter folks will have better solutions. 

Dont see the pictures, not sure its me or you, can we try again for pictures

7 hours ago, jamesm said:

I was referring to removal of the  Garmin AP Disconnect red button see below.

The silver collar backs off easy but  doesn't come off the rest of button assembly didn't want to move.

I have already removed the PC wing lever button that is where my PTT is located.

James '67C

 

james, 

could you please show a picture of your PTT installing in the PC button hole. Also make and model of the switch and any other info you can share, thats next on my todo list.

J

Oh crap, I can feel my want button being pushed. Looking forward to your ops ck.  

I would also take a set