Whiskey Charlie

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About Whiskey Charlie

  • Rank
    Full Member
  • Birthday 07/24/1961

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    bart.chilcott@yahoo.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Wichita Kansas
  • Interests
    Flying, Investing, Music, Antique Cars, Boating, Scuba, Treasure Hunting, My Two Daughters, Spending Time With Friends
  • Reg #
    N706WC
  • Model
    M20E

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Thanks Brian, Making sure I understand. Are you saying the total cost was 5K or was that just the install cost?
  2. Thank you for your reply Spectre. I’m in the same thought as you as it being pricy. However, you brought up an interesting point. It took you 40 hours to install it. If I calculate that out at $95.00 (std I think) shop rate X 40 hours. That comes to $3800 labor plus the cost of the unit of $4000.00 equals $7800.00. Roughly half what I was quoted. Did you also have to install and calibrate new Fuel tank sensors? Just curious what that might add to the complexity and time. Also, did your 40 hours include removal of existing tach, Map, legacy gauges and new panel section? Just trying to define the true time and labor cost.
  3. Thanks for that info! Aside the corrupted update, how do you like your 660?
  4. I currently have a JPI EDM 700 on my E. It works flawlessly displaying CHT’s EGT’s volts, oil temps, GPH, and has the fuel totalizer on it. It is also links to my GPS to show fuel required, fuel remaining after arrival etc.. I’m actually very happy with it. Recently, my MP gauge went out and it got me to thinking a lot upgrading to the 900 or 930 and eliminating the MAP/FUEL and TACH along with the legacy gauge cluster. I was told by the shop that created my panel that upgrading would require all new sensors, probes and tank sensors in my long range bladders. I was quoted $14,000.00 for the JPI EDM900 and just shy of $16,000 for the 930, (PLUS PANEL WORK of another $1800.00.) Basically, it’s the price of the unit plus $12K for install. My question for the group is two fold and I’d appreciate feedback from those who have purchased and installed either of these units. 1) Is this a price in alignment with what others have paid? Or, is it more reflective of the abundance of avionics work being done and the shops simply being able to set their price? 2) I’ve included a picture of my current panel. For those of you who have the smaller 900, if I were to install it, would it be useful/readable located on the top, right side panel in landscape mode? Or, would it be best to eliminate the OBS on the left side panel and install it portrait next to the Aspens? Looking at upgrading the 430W as well at the same time but that’s another discussion for another day. Thank you in advance for your input. Bart Chilcott N706WC 1965 M20E Wichita Ks
  5. Thank you for taking time to create this Jason. Your side panels look great too! Did Hector at Aero Comfort do that for you?
  6. I’m not sure what tools you have available to you but at Beechcraft and Cessna factories, we used digital inclinometers for precisely measuring control surface angle. Most A&P’s have these and would be a very precise way to determine the angle.
  7. I paid $150.00 for my last hub inspection and the inspection was done in my hangar. I’ve seen prices as high as $350.00 here in Kansas as well.
  8. Interesting. With all the aircraft machine shops here in ICT (Wichita) supporting Boeing, Cessna, Beechcraft and Learjet, I would think it would be easy to find someone here to machine them for Lasar. I’m due for one myself. Think I’ll look into this.
  9. Thank you Drapo, that convinces me to go with the NL!
  10. Thank you Bob. I appreciate that. I think I’ll just go new though. How do you like the cranking torque and speed out of the NL?
  11. Yes, I’m do know I need 149 tooth. I’m just wondering if anyone else has used the NL on the E model. I actually need all the weight upfront I can get. I’m aft heavy do to TCAS electronics in the tail. No matter which starter I choose. I’ll have to add weight to offset the lighter starter.
  12. Thank you Carusosm. Looks like that’s on a C model but still useful info!
  13. My Prestolite starter on my M20E has given up the ghost. I'm looking to replace it with a Skytec Starter. I'm wondering which model most have gone with on an E. I know some have the PM model and I'm wondering if anyone has used the NL model. Also, if any modification had to be made to fit either unit. (such as ram air or other linkages). Thank you in advance for your help. Bart Chilcott N706WC Wichita, Kansas
  14. Loved this! Thanks for sharing!!