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Junkman last won the day on December 25 2017

Junkman had the most liked content!

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About Junkman

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    Lives Here
  • Birthday 01/30/1961

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    : Saint Charles, MO (KSUS)
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  • Model
    M20M TLS/Bravo

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  1. Nancy Belville requested we post this message for Bob's friends on Mooneyspace: With great sorrow, Rick
  2. Nancy Belville requested we post this message for Bob's friends on Mooneyspace: With great sorrow, Rick
  3. I have an occasional vibration on climb out that I THINK I've isolated to a momentary increase in AOA and may be coming from my nose gear doors. I notice it when I'm climbing through turbulent air that requires a pitch adjustment - I hand fly my airplane in the climb. Does that ring any bells similar to your situation? I religiously review my engine data and have a Savvy subscription and no engine anomalies have been seen. I'm annualing at an MSC @AGL Aviation in October and will be asking for a good check on the gear door rigging. I'll report what I find out from Lynn. Cheers, Rick
  4. This ^^^ Mine are in the same place.
  5. You're probably going to have to check with JPI on this one as I think it will require a software update to only give a single alarm when a tank drops below your set value, or an option to have it alarm on total fuel remaining. I have an EDM900 installed in a CH2000 and had the same issue. I set the value to zero and I use @Marauder's technique of alarming fuel used, but I always start with the same fuel level in that airplane so it works for me. I vary the starting fuel load in my Mooney so it wouldn't work as well there. @gsxrpilot may have some ideas, I believe he has an EDM900 in his airplane. Cheers, Rick
  6. Thanks Anthony @carusoam, and thanks to KP @kpaul for sharing our story here. Glennie and I are happy so many have enjoyed it. Y'all are the circle of friends I was talking about! Cheers, Rick
  7. This is a really non-standard approach to this problem but it's worked for me in the past: try a call on ground frequency. I set ground into my #2 radio as part of my approach radio setup so I can leave the approach freq in standby on my #1 for the missed and just punch the comm panel as I clear the runway for ground. I was having a similar issue to yours one day and pushed over to ground to advise of the problem and immediately got an apology and a call on tower freq. UNICOM could work as well if you have it set up, although less likely that the tower would be monitoring. Just another way to skin the cat. Cheers, Rick
  8. Here's a "new" vintage - FlyBoyToys.com stopped making these with the manufacturer logos and fonts a year or so ago due to a cease and desist order from Cirrus, as I recall. And Don - YOU WIN! Cheers, Rick
  9. The other two are M10 Cadet and M22 Mustang. And for completeness, the FAA also issued the M10F and M10R designations for the reincarnation of the the M10 trainer that fizzled in 2017. But to your original question - With due diligence, Mooneyspace makes us all real Mooney pilots regardless of the model we happen to fly ourselves. I know, a long body is different from a short body, but I know that because I've read and studied the differences through the posts here. While I haven't executed them, I've learned the procedures and techniques that work across the varying models. I'm not an expert by any means, but I'm a real Mooney guy by virtue of what all of the other real Mooney guys have shared here. So are you. That's not to diminish the significance of the experience you gained in the C. I expect you were well prepared to learn for the reasons stated above. Congrats on expanding your expertise. Cheers, Rick
  10. Hi Alex, I see a max of 195 at the peak of the climb to the upper teens and then about 186 plus or minus 3 degrees in cruise LOP, 2200/30 and 13.8ish GPH. Even varying off that power setting I never see anything above 195 on the oil temp. Cheers, Rick
  11. Thanks PJ, I got a pack of those but didn't initially like them - now I'm reconsidering. They're a perfect fit for the existing reflector if you drill out the back of the base. And I'm thinking that splicing to the original pigtail is the easiest answer for a one-time installation versus acquiring the tools and parts necessary to assemble the AMP connectors properly. But then again I hardly ever pass up an excuse to acquire new, expensive tools... Cheers, Rick