mikeyhaley

Oh it sputters! Not gonna lie, I was nervous ...er um OK very very nervous! The first time I tried it on my way back from KADH. I actually chickened out the first time and decided the needle was low enough! At that time I only had my PP for 3 months. I was definitely erroring on the side of caution. But after I was way more comfortable flying, I ran it dry. The engine sputters a little then you just switch it to the other tank and away ya go. (P.S. Don't do it with your nervous GF in the co-pilot seat. oops!) If you have an engine monitor, you will see the temps to start fluctuating about 6-8 seconds before the engine sputters. Now... that being said, make sure you turn the boost pump ON if you previously ran the other tank dry. You may crap your pants a little when you switch tanks and away you DON'T go. Glad I was quick on my reaction and turned the boost pump on the first time I ran both tanks dry. (Obviously not at the same time, but back to back flights) Good news is I was over the desert at 12k so had plenty of time and not a big deal.

I also wanted to see what the fuel gauge reads when the tank is out of usable fuel. Looks like the left edge of the needle is right at the right edge of the last white part. It clearly does not read properly. The needle is far from the "red" of empty and was at that spot for the last 10-15 minutes before it finally sputtered and ran out of fuel.

I just ran my right tank out of fuel coming back from Phoenix earlier today. I wanted to make sure where the "full" mark is as well. I've done it before and can't find where I wrote it down, and of course, I'm second guessing myself. I have an M20K and the capacity is 38.5 in each side with 35 usable. For some reason I remember I could only fit another 33 in each side after the tank "runs out". (2 gallons short of what the POH says) It seems the last 3 gallons or so take forever since you have to pump it very slowly. I'll report back when I fill it up. Stayed tuned!

My spring broke. Thanks for the P/N. Where can I order the spring? I checked Aircraft Spruce and couldn't find it.

Does anyone know why my transponder switches to ground automatically? I've been working on my IFR rating and when we go missed on an approach, it automatically switches to ground instead of staying on Altitude. I've searched and searched and can't find a setting and/or a fix to make it stay on Altitude. I've asked the shop that installed it several times and get no response.

Does anyone have a way to determine when the unit was made based on the serial number?

Vance I kind of agree with you. That is the entire purpose of an alternator over a generator. I came from the automotive world and I upgraded my VW bug from a generator to an alternator for that reason. Not sure it translate but logic says it should. Then again I've learner logic goes out the window in the aviation world!

I just found the invoice from Mike's Avionics in Van Nuys, CA which repaired it back in May. It reads "removed and soldered in a new microprocessor". At idle, it isn't producing much Voltage. I think around 12.0 volts. Any RPM over 900-1,000 it produces right around 14v. Maybe it makes sense to send it into King since they are the ones that made it originally.

10 posts. I'm on a roll! ha. I figured it was 1,000 just couldn't figure out the Acronym. Thanks for all the info. I haven't had a chance to call anyone so it's a next week project.

I would agree - work or don't work. I thought battery as well but when they fixed it, they replaced the memory. The frequencies get written to the memory. I think they are ROM boards and for some reason they either stop retaining the memory or the unit can't read the memory. The display looks good. I would have assumed the they cleaned the knobs when they had it apart but probably a bad idea to assume in this business. ha!

I'll reach out to them tomorrow. I'm new so forgive me but what does AMU stand for? I've seen it a bunch on the site.

Hello all. I have a 14V KX-165 with Glide Slope. The frequencies don't commit to memory consistently when I turn the power off. Most of the time the unit starts up on 120.00 and 110.00, sometimes the previous frequencies will be there and sometimes a combination of both. I had it fixed once and it worked fine for a few months. Now the problem is back. I was told that there was repair bulletin put out by King/Bendix and you can only get the a repair kit from them. But apparently they don't sell and/or make them anymore and of course, no one has one (That I can find anyway).. The other day, a new issue popped. I was leaving AZ in the morning (55ish degrees OAT, plane was hangared that night) and the COM knob wouldn't change the frequency. The white button to swap the frequencies wouldn't work either. The NAV knob changed both COM & NAV frequencies. Once I filled up and taxied to the run-up, it started working. Weird stuff.... I know it's not the end of the world if the radio always defaults to 120.00/110.00 on start-up....it is just annoying! The latter issue is more of a concern. Has anyone run into either of these issues? Does anyone have one for sale?! Thanks for your help!

Good to know. Thanks!

Where did you get the throttle for your 231? I talked to my mechanic and apparently they aren't certified for the 231 and he wouldn't install it.

I didn't end up doing it. Other more important projects came up. It's def time for a prop and mixture control though. They are getting pretty loose and I don't think there is anyway to adjust the pressure like the throttle. The prop backs out on me so I always have to keep an eye on the RPM's.