bradtlew

Personally i'd like to try this option. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/ledcockpitred.php?recfer=4919 looks like plenty of light, and dimmable...

We're here in the northwest, I think there is a MSC in Troutdale, OR. Anyone have any experience with Advanced Aircraft Services?

Ours is a '65 C model with no trim tab. I've also noticed, at almost all phases, when I bank left I still have to hold right rudder. Here are some of my analysis: in cruise around 137 KIAS, you need right rudder, on approach and flare, still using right rudder, but lose it before that wheel touches down. Otherwise you're doing that 8 second ride, which I do not enjoy. Climbing, right rudder, descending right rudder...thinking I should try the rod end adjustment, question is how much per half turn of the rod end gives you what results? Oh and this is all with the PC off, with it on, seems like it needs to be turned to the right quite a bit.

gotta love that big screen, very nice!

Apollo, did you ever have any resolution on this subject? I've noticed with the M20C I'm flying, it requires A Lot of right rudder in almost all aspects of flight, I didn't think this was normal, but others in club do, or have just accepted it. From what I'm reading here I shouldn't have a cramped right leg after every flight in varying weather conditions?

Rakesb, I just had mine apart last month to fix a broken wire on the rheostat, you can see in the picture there should be plenty of slack, maybe yours is hung up on something, bit of a task to get the liner down, lots of screws, but probably easy to fix once down.

Installed the IR shoulder belts and love them. Notes on installation (at least for a C model): 1. take all of the royal tite liners off, including the headliner, don't even try without you'll waste time 2. co-pilot side, there is a small gap you will see where you can install the clamp very easily 3. Pilot side the gap is bigger at the top near the speaker, remove a couple of the small sheet metal screws and you can pry it away enough to squeeze the clamp in there and work it down into position, on pilot side I used a zip tie to mark the location and keep clamp where needed 4. as far as getting the hardware together, if possible, have another person there to hold the assembly in place while the other actually gets the bold started with the nut taped into a wrench (my solution as I did one side myself) 5. while this is all a part, good time to go thru the ducting and tape up any gaps, or like me, fix the rheostat, so now we have lights again! if anyone has questions on this let me know, I also have some pictures that I can post

Hi Ned, I see this is a pretty old thread, but have a similar question. However, looks like people were more about the MSDS of lubricants? I have '65 M20C that I need to pull the Single overhead rheostat down and was wondering if you had any tips or tricks? looks like it's behind the vent?? Thanks, -Bradtlew

Have a 65 C also looking into the Shortwingpiper solution, but still in the process of trying to get the original rheostat out as I think it is bad since nothing on it's circuit lights up, which if you have one there is the fuel selector light and compass light, so there are incandescent lights in the circuit. Any one have any tips for that rheostat? It's the overhead kind, apparently inside the vent duct???? Does anyone know if there are those inline fuses in the C as with newer models?

I'm about to put those same harnesses on our C model, when you say put them on Back to front, do you mean with the opening facing fwd? How hard were the lap belts, that seems pretty tight to do with the seats in the aircraft.