cpbloch

Search on this and you will find my post with pictures , part numbers, and where I got them, I fixed mine up with these and it works great still to this day I don't know how to take my post and paste it in here, but you can use the subject line vacuum step rubber servo and you should be able to find it, sept 28th 2016 good luck

I also accomplished the same thing a few weeks ago by putting some knowledge together from this great site. KRN aviation has beech parts mostly and they were very good to work with. Krn got the part and made some measurements for me before sending it was very helpful. The part that I purchased was 2007-1 seal and it appears to be identical to the old 50 year part I took off and it was a bit cheaper as you can see from the attached photo's. Took 10 minutes to fit the new part seal around the edge with some electrical tape and my step has never worked so well on my 67 F model. The wife is now very happy that it works, she was not that impressed until she has to step up on the wing, after all I am a mooney guy and I am not going to loose the 5 knots with it down so it has been wired up for a year. Jejiii your part may be a bit longer than mine, I did not take a picture of the 2007-1 part before installing it, dimensionally it looked very close to the original, if anything it is just a slightly shorter. Installed in the plane it works great, seems to go up and down much smoother and faster than the old unit that was taped and repairing a number of area's.

Sure Roy I would be happy to meet up with you sometime. I can see that you have been in the market for a Mooney. my e mail is cbloch@fisenusa.com,. Send me a note at this address and we can figure out a time that works for you to connect. chris

Hello Jason I have a 67F at Sparta 8D4 just west of 6D6 Greenville. I am on my 4th mooney and have a ton of spare parts if you ever need anything while you are up here let me know. I keep extra tires, tubes and other mooney specific stuff to keep my planes dispatch rate high. I also have a Piper pacer that I love to fly into Fairlanes air park, nice grass, Jerry I think is the guy with the large hanger on the south side, a lot of cool planes there like his stearman, Monday nites sometimes there are some planes that fly in and hang around, nice spot for sure, grass is smooth and the people are friendly. Welcome to the club, in many ways the F model is one of the best mooneys from a combination of purchase price, performance, useful load, endurance, and so on. I have owned (2) 201's and (1) Ovation 3 before my F model, other than missing the known ice capability of the ovation I love everything about the F model. Welcome to the club, this is a great group with some very valuable information. fly safe and have fun traveling with the kids. Chris

I put a power flow on my 1967 M20F approximately 50 hours ago, I also have the challenger air filter, new mags timed right and a 400 smoh engine. The powerflow is a bit expensive but as others have mentioned in the long run it may be cheaper than fixing an old exhaust. I also sold my old exhaust for $ 600 on ebay to help get some of the cost back. I also took the discount for the long lead time, they will give you a nice discount if you can wait a few months for them to get orders together for a larger order build. The system went in easy, I live in Michigan and ordered the additional heat muff which is could not fit on my plane, but the heat is still fine in the winter. The performance increase is noticeable in climb and cruise up high. I gains a real world 4 knots above 7,000 feet and about 150 feet more climb. The IO360A engine is nicely balance from a fuel flow and I have always been able to run lean of peak. The power flow improved running lean of peak also I feel it does a better job of balancing the flows in the engine. I can run lean of peak at 13,000 feet and the engine is super smooth, which is a great option if you have nice tail winds, nothing better than 8.5 gallons per hour and 170 knot ground speed when you can get it. The engine sounds great according to my buddies that are standing around when I taxi by, and the system looks good. I did not get the ceramic coating so the pipes are blue but that is a cool look in my mind. I am very happy with the power flow and would do it again, my hope is that it lasts a long time, and I get good at the annual ritual of removing two pipes to put the antiseize on the joints. have fun , fly safe Chris

I am writing to let you know how I changed the shock disks on the mains without any special tools. The nose gear you will either need to rent the tools or it has been accomplished with the use of a nice big turnbuckle by a buddy of mine. The following is the description that I sent to a friend that has a 1967 F model on how to change the main shock disks. I hope you find this helpful and good luck looking for a plane. 1967 Mooney M20F Get the plane up on jacks, and stable either with the engine supported, or the tail strapped down, Some say that you are not to use strap the tail down method, but most of the people around here do and the tail hook seems strong. I have the usual cement bucket, the tail chained, and also put a tie strap up and over the tail and down to the bucket for double safety here. Remove the gear doors, the actuator rods, and then the two bolts that connect the hinges at the top, You can then wiggle the door towards the front of the plane so that you can get an angle to get the door hinges to let go of the plane. Remove the top small sheet metal cap on the top of the stack of gear pucks, you can get a screw driver in there and pry towards the back of the plane and it will slide back to give you access to the top of the shock tower. You need this to get the ½ inch nylock nut off. You can now see what you have to work with at the top of the disk stack. There a small hole that is just large enough to get the bolt out after you remove the nylock nut. The bolt has a flat head cap on it. At this point while you have the plane jacked up and tension on the bolt you can get the ½ inch open end up there and take a bunch of turns on the nut to loosen it, you don’t have to loosen it all the way, just get it loose. If you can put some large planks down under the tire so that you can let the plane down and get some weight on it this works well, you can then still have some room under the plane to work. Let the tire down on the planks, and stop from time to time to see when you have enough weight on the stack of disks to get the bolt to line up with the hole that it has to come out of. When the plane is up and no weight on the gear, there is tension on the bolt at the top and it will be below the allingment hole. You will find that you usually have to have almost all of the weight of the plane on the wheel before the bolts get loose with no tension and it lines up with the hole. You can now put the flat head screw driver in the hole on one side and the ½ inch open end on the other and have fun making a million small turns to get the nut off. When the nut and washer are off you can then get a small screw driver and push the bolt out of the hole on the other side. It is a bit tricky but with some messing around you can do it. There is a collar at the top of the disk stack that the bolt goes thru that keeps the assembly together. Once the bolt is out the stack should come loose unless the collar has seized to the shaft. That is fine leave it for now. Next step is to get the two 9/16 bolts and nuts at the front of the gear assembly off. These are the ones that you are staring at when looking at the gear and they have grease fitting for them. You need to take these out, you don’t need to remove the large bolt at the bottom of the disk stack this one stays in. Now that you have the two bolts at the front out you should be able to wiggle the whole assembly if the collar is not seized and get the shaft and the disk stack to come down and out. You then simply remove the old disks put the new ones on all with one hand while holding the assembly, and then get your legs under all of it and push it back up the way you found it. It is a bit unstable at this point so it will take all your hands and feet to get the shaft back up in place and the two bolts back in the hing point at the front. Watch when you take it appart to see what goes where. At the top of the stack there is a big washer that has a lip on it that lines the whole thing up with the front of the assembly. At the top down in the recess you may want to put some anti seize on the collar, or clean the old paint out of it so that it goes back in nice. The collar has a recess half moon in it that helps it align with a weld on the assembly. Once you have the two bottom bolts in, then you need to get the collar in on top, and then again let the jacks down to put weight on the gear leg to compress the disk stack to the point where the hole thru the collar and the top of the disk stack shaft all line up and you can wiggle the bolt in and then take the dexterity lesson of getting the washer and the nylock nut back on. From here you just do the reverse and get everything back I place.

I just had a strange and frustrating experience with a Gill and replaced it with a concord and everything is fine. The concord is the way to go. At annual I sent out my mags for the 500 hour inspection and my shower of sparks box. From time to time during the start it appeared that my shower of sparks box needed work, I would let go of the key while cranking and the engine would immediately start. So push the plane out after annual in a heated hanger and it wont start, will not even make a combustion noise, but it cranks fine. Check the shower of sparks box it checks out fine, charge the battery still no start. After messing with a lot of stuff, putting in a new key switch $ 400, it turns out the Gill which was fairly new was good enough to crank, but had a bad cell. During the cranking it battery voltage would drop below 10 volts and then the shower of sparks box was 9.5 volts so it would not spark while cranking. So another $ 400 for a new concord, and it starts perfect. The fuel pump during priming also sounds like its new. So I spent 2 weeks and a lot of money trying to diagnose what was a bad Gill Battery. I am hoping to get some great service out of the concord which is highly recommended around here.

The bromptons just fit thru the baggage door barely,. You need to put them diagonal thru the door and they will fit but as said it is real close,. Mine have the medium bar rise also. I like them for folding bikes they work great amd ride ok for a really well engineered folding bike. They only go in one way also, and you kind of have to rock them on the way in to get them to fit, but they will fit

Aerotronics also did the panel on my 1967F model, the bill was almost $ 40K back in 2007, as you can see from the pictures the panel layouts and circuit breakers look similar. For being out in Montana they put together one of the nicest looking panels in an old mooney that I have seen. Like Barcho I looked for a while for a older mooney with a great panel and low to mid time engine. My plane only flew 12 hours since 2007 when I purchased it over a year ago, so really rolled the bones on the engine, but so far I have put 250 hours on it and no sign of the rust problems that can sometime happen. Still keeping my fingers crossed but love the plane and the panel . Good luck with your new old plane you will enjoy it. Chris

I also am an avid biker/racer. The first picture is a perfect summer day, flew the mooney early in the morning to Frankfort MI, landed at a grass strip during a balloon launch, rode the bike 6 miles to town raced a road race and was home by noon. Perfect use of a great airplane on a nice day. I do travel with my race bikes from time to but, but have to remove the back seat cushion on my 1967 F model and fold the back seats down. Then it is a very tight fit , I don't have a bag but I can see where it would be a good idea. This year I purchased (2) bromptons, these are the best folding bikes you can buy in my mind. (2) of them fit into the baggage compartment and only take up half of the baggage compartment. They fold and un fold in 2 minutes and they are relatively easy and fun to ride. They are $ 1,700 to $ 2,000 so not cheap but they are very quick and easy to get in and out of the plane for the wife and I. Check out the brompton side for more information they are great bikes. They are so easy to fold and take that I bring them most places we take the plane,

You may be able to get by with replacing the landing light with an led unit and sold the problem. When I purchased my 1967 F model on the first flight home the landing light switch/breaker would only stay on for about 5 minutes then it would trip and not be able to reset for another 10 minutes after it cooled off. I immediately changed the landing light to a led unit which draws about 2.5 amps compared to the standard 9 am landing light. Problem solved and the landing light switch/breaker has been very happy ever since, and it will probably function for another 50 years

We plan on flying in on Wend morning, and leaving on Friday morning. I will be flying my 1953 Pacer not my 1967 M20F. I hope to meet some of you mooney guys, and I will be looking for a mite to look at while at KOSH this year. Chris

Fantastic information, thanks a lot for the reply, I need to get the PCU5000 on order, the order form asks for some information on the bracket location and some other things that I need to get them. I will get that information together and then give them a call to confirm that I have the correct parts coming. You describe them as very helpful which is great. Thanks