rotheroe
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Repairing a Hoskin Strobe power supply (P/N 701295 3A14VDC)
rotheroe replied to NicoN's topic in General Mooney Talk
Thanks, btw I forgot to include the Littelfuse CG230 gas discharge tube that goes from the 0.22uF capacitor ("sync" input) to ground. This device will trigger (short to ground) once the lower 200uF capacitor has reached 230VDC and dump the charge from the 0.22uF capacitor into the step-up transformer (located in the strobe light assembly) to trigger a flash. The yellow sync leads from all three power supplies (wingtips and tail) are connected together so that whichever supply's CG230 first reaches 230VDC will trigger a flash on all three synchronously. If the yellow sync lead is simply left open (e.g. power supply bench test), this small gas discharge tube is what will trigger a flash. -
Repairing a Hoskin Strobe power supply (P/N 701295 3A14VDC)
rotheroe replied to NicoN's topic in General Mooney Talk
Here's a hand sketched reverse engineered schematic in case of use to anyone else repairing these themselves. I've had to replace the two big capacitors twice on one unit, since I neglected to reform the identical (Sprague 39D series) "new old stock" replacement units I bought from Mouser. The first (not reformed) set shorted out after a few months in service. The second set I reformed overnight on a high voltage power supply before installing them, so hopefully they'll last longer. The original soldered leaded small glass fuses are Bussmann GFA-4 and quite expensive.
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The top tip is a smaller diameter black plastic piece that needs its smaller diameter to slide into the narrow black plastic insert at the very top of the indicator panel slot. Unfortunately that means not just painting the tip of the rod black. The main rod measures less than 3/16" diameter, but more than 1/8". There is a small spot on the side that suggests injection molding instead of just standard size rod, which would be strange considering the low volumes involved. At any rate the rod is the maximum diameter that will slide into the indicator panel slot, so I'd have to go with 1/8" if fabricating the part. An original is about $70 (!) from Mooney, but there is no stock availability.
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Thanks for sharing. Here's what it looks like in a 1980's M20J (SN 24-1169 to 24-3410). The first picture is from the rear, showing the trim and flap indicator screwed onto the backside of the plastic center console cover, with the illumination light socket on top. The indicator rods are round plastic on these years, with a small black plastic tip glued onto the top. On my M20J the flap indicator plastic rod snapped off at the base where it joins onto the wire (at the top of the red heat shrink in the photos). I glued it with epoxy as a temporary fix and am now looking for a new indicator rod. There is some tension on the wire cables (pushing towards the cockpit along the pitch axis) which is probably what eventually led to the plastic rod cracking and breaking off. -Pete
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HI Pete:
I am out of town, returning Thursday. I thought I had a pic but I cannot find it. I can check the version on Thursday. I'll keep looking for the pic. I took pics of all the stuff intending to list on e-bay, but I never got around to it.
All the gauges were working when removed. I had a problem with the fuel pressure indication, my shop said it was the transducer, not the gauge. Since the transducer wasn't available at any cost, I put in a JPI 900 instead.
As I recall, there is no connector for the gauge set. All of the wires are connected with ring terminals over posts/nuts.
Larryt
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Hi Larry, the wires with the ring terminals all go together in a harness to a single black Cannon twist connector. I guess your installer cut the wiring and re-routed to it your JPI 900, whereas KSMooniac's installer apparently just used a new Cannon connector and made a new harness to his JPI. Thus his would have been a bit easier to swap out.
None-the-less, I'm still interested. Is your unit clean with good paint on all the gauges, like KSMooniac's looked in his photo? By the way the fuel pressure transducer is a standard VDO pressure sender. Mine even had the original VDO markings on it when it failed, and I had no problem locating a new replacement in original packaging from the automotive world. Maybe less than 100% legal however.
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HI Pete:
I'll get the pic to you on Thursday, unless weather delays me until Friday. It's pretty clean, but been 9 months since I've looked at it.
I know they changed FP transducers over the years, earlier ones were standard automotive. Mine unfortunately wasn't. I had seen an article on how to retrofit the older sensor, but it seemed a hassle.
Larry
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Larryb, it seems his was sold. He listed both this -511 as well as a -503 in a different posting last year and both are sold. My 1983 M20J uses the -511. Were all gauges on yours working when removed, especially the CHT gauge (my immediate need)? Is yours also complete with cable harness and connector? Would you send me a picture(s) rotheroe3-at-aol.com? -Pete
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Hello, is your M20J gauge cluster still available? Pete Rotheroe rotheroe3 at aol.com
