170driver

Thanks - looks like this is a later model C though, without “PC”. PC actually works in my Mooney & I find it quite convenient. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have a 1968 C model & need a pilot’s side control yoke and shaft. Any suggestions about where to look would be greatly appreciated. Less urgently required, but will be needed eventually - u-joints for the trim system. Thanks, Dave Blom C-GAVX Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Clarence Will probably be a couple of weeks before I get to this. I'll be sure to record before & after cruise speeds & post the numbers. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I meant to say rod ends at the ailerons, not the flaps. The yoke is properly centred in wings level cruise, and the plane flies more or less hands off with the PC disconnected, so wouldn't I just have to lengthen the rod end at each aileron by the same amount each side until the mass balances are centred? After that the flap stops would be adjusted "up" by the same amount on each side until trailing edges aligned with ailerons. Dave Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have the maintenance and parts manuals for the plane. The shop that does the annuals is good about letting me do work under supervision. I haven't looked carefully at the manual yet, but it seems to me the rod ends at the flaps need to be lengthened an equal amount on each side to get the counterweights flush, and flap stops adjusted equally after that to get trailing edges aligned. Dave Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, now the follow-on question that has been asked more than once ... where to get a set of travel boards? Hangar Toolbox seems to be defunct. I checked the zip file posted elsewhere on the forum and it contains a scan of the rudder travel board only. Does anyone have technical drawings of the wing boards for a C model, or is there another place to rent them from ?

Hello All, During annual in July of last year the flaps on my '68 C were adjusted. They hadn't been extending as far as the should, and when retracted they were a bit "high" so that on the starboard side the corner of the inboard trailing edge contacted the fairing and rubbed a small hole in it. Now, with the yoke centred the trailing edges of the flaps and ailerons are perfectly in line, but the aileron counterweights are sitting about 1/2" high of the wing surface on each side. It seems to me that I must be losing some cruise speed, both from the drag of the counterweights sticking up in the wind and from the bit of extra camber in the wing. The plane flights pretty straight - verrrry slow left turn when trimmed in cruise with PC disconnected. I know tinkering with rigging can open a can of worms, so I'd like to ask the Mooney spacers who have faced this situation - is it worth adjusting all the trailing edges up so the counterweights lie flush? Might have to bend the flap to fuselage fairing up a tiny bit - otherwise the same number of turns would be required on each side to make the adjustment. Dave 1968 M20C C-GAVX Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My checklist calls for mag checks, then prop exercise, mixture check, and finally carb heat. If I get ice during the mag check I'll skip to the carb heat check & then pick up at the mag check again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

On cooler days I my '68 C will often start to lose RPM due to carb ice shortly after setting 1700 for mag check, etc. If I do the carb heat check immediately the ice clears and doesn't return, even if I'm left idling for a long time waiting for t/o. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Count me in (1). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

+1 on the use of.020 2024 aluminum. I used what was left of the cardboard as a template and re-used the existing vinyl covering as it cleaned up well. No problems with bending when installed, and slightly lighter than the old material. Cost of materials was a case of craft beer for the AMO who allowed me to look through the cut-ends pile for pieces the right size. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had mine "rebuilt" two annuals ago by a company in WA - about $1600, if memory serves. As long as they can re-use a flange or some other small portion of the old system the work they do is considered a repair. A new muffler was around double the repair cost. I'd have to ask the shop that did the annual the name of the company - will do if you want to investigate. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes I did! My opinion concerned the amount of force required to dislocate my shoulder. This could be determined precisely by experiment, but I'm not willing to do that experiment. Forces experienced by propeller hubs in all corners of the flight envelope have been modelled, analyzed and measured many times over and the results are available to us. Opinions should be reserved for such topics as paint schemes, the merits of high wing vs low wing aircraft, and whether or not tailwheel training improves a pilot's moral character. In my opinion, anyway. [emoji6] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Phew! Thanks for that. "Opinions" about measurable things like forces on a propeller drive me nuts. In my opinion my shoulder would dislocate long before I could exert enough force on a propeller blade to damage the hub. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just curious - what avionics are installed in your airplane? I'm considering updating my '68 C for ifr training. It seems to me that the least expensive practical way to go is Garmin 430 or 530 - reasonable likely-hood of support for a few years yet. An avionics AMO I know thinks that there will be "major announcements" by a couple of manufacturers this year that might change the landscape a bit, but not sure I want to wait for that. Dave Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well done, old man! I can call you that cause I'm only 55 ;-) Dave Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The fellow I bought the plane from participated in the Century of Flight trip across Canada in 2010. As you can imagine without the stripes the plane would be difficult to see against most landscapes if you happened to be flying near & above. Invasion stripes were a quick & dirty way to remedy that. When I'm out and about with the plane peoples' reactions are always one or the other of .. "So, when are you gonna paint it?", or "That is sooo cool! Don't ever paint it!" I'd like to paint it someday, but $15k+ would also buy some pretty nice avionics, fill the tanks a few times, cover a few annuals, etc. Ugly doesn't make it go slower. Dave Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I grew up in Kelowna - living in North Vancouver now I have to say I sometimes miss that semi-desert climate. Will be flying my '68 C to the convention this summer. And yes, C-GAVX is even prettier up close. Dave Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I haven't tried departing at gross on a hot day - would opt for 07/25 at 2700'. Did t/o from Okotoks at gross on a 29 deg day a couple of years ago. 3500' rwy and wheels were off a little past the halfway point, so wouldn't try it with 2100'. Dave Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

CYNJ - most often use 01/19 which is 2100' long. 80mph on final - maybe 75 over the fence - I don't often look at that point! Field is 34' ASL Dave Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've been looking for the same thing for a while. Are you you trying to equip for ifr on a budget? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, I learned something today! My cruise fuel flow has always calculated out to 10 gph or a titch below 9. I always attributed it to uneven ground when dipping the tanks. Will try backing off from wot a bit from now on & see if flow calculations are more consistent. Thanks, gentlemen! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just coming up to 3 years owning my 68 C. Don't think I'll be able to come close to your record. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The pax seat back in my '68 C was badly cracked in 5 or 6 places. Stop drilled all cracks where needed and riveted 0.020 2024 patches over each crack. Seat back is solid now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had the brakes on my Mooney retract asymmetrically last summer - pilot side took about a minute to stow away. Obviously not a temperature issue - I aimed a shot of Tri Flow at each pivot point, from the slot in the wing surface. All worked well after that, so no ill effects from lubrication. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk