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Dan M20E '66

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Everything posted by Dan M20E '66

  1. Sale closed today - many thanks to all those who expressed interest. It has been great being part of the Mooney community. I guess I'm an outsider now but will always have fond memories of my plane. Best of wishes to the Mooneyspace universe! Dan
  2. Charheep, Thanks for the interest and question. One tracks to a DG bug, the other tracks to VOR/GPS.
  3. It is with no small amount of melancholy that I offer my 1966 M20E for sale - I've had it since 2014; its the first and only plane I've owned but is time to move on. I bought it from Paul and Shery Loewen of LASAR, serial number 1000. TTAF is 5921; ESMOH 922, about 606 since top-end overhaul. I try to fly weekly, and have put nearly 400 hours on it. Most annuals have been performed by Top Gun in Stockton, California and the plane is hangered at O22 (Columbia, CA). I have extensive documentation and am pretty anal about taking care of my things. I'd like to get $89,900 for it. Serious inquiries only, please, and I can provide quite a bit of information electronically. I'm posting here first to the Mooneyspace community before considering other channels. Let me know if you're interested. Dan N267WS Flyer.pdf
  4. When I bought my '66 E in 2014 - also as a low-hour pilot - I had all these grand plans too. I agree with other suggestions to just fly the plane to get familiar and comfortable in it. Figure on 10 hours for your complex, and do a ton of patterns and pattern entries at speed and altitude. Slowing down isn't a big deal as long as you plan for it (2 minutes for every 500 feet with extra time to slow to gear down speed after reaching pattern altitude). Approaching an airport high and fast isn't fun. Don't force the plane on the runway - practice go-arounds and don't hesitate to do them. Two priorities I'd suggest are a good engine monitor (I got an EI CGR-30P), and ADSB-out. Since your transponder is ancient (like mine was), the Garmin GTX335 is a good choice. Then run Pilot of Foreflight on your iPad Mini with a portable ADSB-in unit and you'll be set. Have fun and fly safe!...
  5. I bought my '66 E from LASAR. They suggested a shop adjacent to them at Lakeport owned by a former staffer (don't remember the name), but I wanted an independent assessment. That might be a good option. Top Gun said their PPI was an annual - expensive. I ended up having Aero Resources at my home airport Columbia do the work. Paul and Sherrie retired from Lasar; I don't know how good the new owner is. I've since come to really appreciate Top Gun. Mark really knows his stuff and they're very thorough. My bird is there right now for its annual. If they don't do your PPI, use them for annuals. Dan
  6. Last Summer I purposely flew over a nearby airport at about 5k' until my left tank went dry. Interestingly, it ran about 15 minutes after the needle pegged which is a good thing to know. And even though I knew the engine was going to stop and was ready to change tanks, I was terrified when it happened. My hands shook as I tried to change tanks. The engine started back up within a few seconds, but it seemed like an eternity. I flew back to my airport and marked up a fresh stick at 3 gallon increments. I now am pretty confident about measurement accuracy of fuel in the wings, and I always stick my tanks before flying. I'll probably do the right wing just to check for symmetry.
  7. I just had a GTX335 installed in my '66 E, replacing the old KT76A. I've flown with it twice so far and it works great. I especially like the pressure altitude display which appears spot-on. It was about $4000 installed, and the FAA rebate was easy and painless. I use Garmin Pilot and have a GDL 39 3D, so I already had ADSB-In, but according to Garmin this combination should enhance traffic awareness although I'm not sure about this. Entering squawk codes sure is easy now. I recommend the GTX335...
  8. Hey Fellow Mooney Owners, I have a 1966 M20E. The previous owner upgraded the left master cylinder to a Cleveland 10-49, but the OEM Paramount remains on the right. It's getting a little flaky and replacement poppets are scarce. Before I plop down big $$ for a new master cylinder, is there anyone out there with a decent used 10-49 they'd part with? No problem to fix up with a rebuild/repair kit if needed. Let me know if it includes the mounting bracket that's need to retrofit to my E. Let me know ASAP! Thanks, Dan
  9. Thanks, Bob - brain fade! 25.7 gallons to the tabs on the left tank with hot fuel....
  10. Just a few weeks ago I did exactly what Carusoam suggested, and for the same reasons. I also wanted to know how accurate my fuel gauges were so I can have corrolation between my stick, gauges, and the EI CGR-30P monitor. I knew my left tank had about 8 gallons and the right tank considerably more, so I cruised at 6k' over a nearby airport until the left tank ran dry. I kept my handy PVC tank selector tool ready in my lap. Even though mentally prepared for it, I still was surprised when the engine sputtered and quit. My hands were shaking as I switched tanks, but surely enough the engine started back up in a few seconds - although it seemed like an eternity! I headed back to my home airport and hangar, and filled the tank while stopping every 3 gallons to mark my homemade stick which was previously marked using info from another Mooneyspace post. I learned a few things: 1. My previous markings overstated actual fuel. 2. When I ran dry, the tank was virtually empty because I filled it to the tab with 51.7 gallons (capacity is specified at 52 gallons) 3. I filled with hot fuel, which was a mistake because the next morning it was sitting below the tab and would have probably taken the full 52 gallons. This also means that my new stick markings may slightly understate fuel level - not a particularly bad thing. 4. My left fuel gauge shows full when the tank is full, but was pegged at "E" about 20 minutes before the engine stopped. Good to know. I plan to repeat the exercise on the right tank, and hopefully I'll react more calmly this time! It was a worthwhile endeavor....
  11. I'm looking to satisfy the ADSB-Out mandate in my '66 M20E. I already have ADSB-In courtesy of a Garmin GDL39-3D and Garmin Pilot. I like the idea of using this opportunity to upgrade my ancient KT76A transponder, so the all-in-one box concept is appealing. Garmin's GTX335/345 look good, as does the Lynx, but at $2995 the Stratus ESG (http://www.appareo.com/stratus-adsb-out/) appears to be the lowest-cost approach. A local avionics shop said to expect about a $500 install because he can re-purpose my existing GPS antenna (from a removed older GPS) and the ESG uses the existing transponder antenna and altitude encoder. Has anyone installed an ESG yet? Comments?....
  12. Back to the battery charger - I also have a G-35 and found Hector in tech support at Gill extremely helpful. For the G-35, you need a Charge ("Bulk") range of 14.1V to 14.3V, and Maintenance ("Float") range of 13.1V to 13.5V. My concern is mainly maintenance, so I use an older Battery Tender model 022-0157-1 that floats at 13.5V. As long as it's powered up when connecting to the Gill, it stays in float mode.
  13. I'll be manning the small CruzTOOLS stand at Aero Friedrichshafen in Germany next week, booth A5-513. Any other Mooney flyers are welcome to stop by to say hi!... Dan, '66 M20E
  14. A recent panel cleanup on my '66 E opened up the perfect spot for an iPad. I had an Air, but it was too big so I got the new iPad Mini 4 that has the same anti-glare screen. Mounted with a RAM suction kit, it works great. I also RAM mount an iPhone 6 on my yoke. Combined with Garmin Pilot, a GDL39 3D, plus an EI USB hub on the panel where my old GEM was, I'm in great shape with redundancy and house power. I can't imagine needing a panel GPS unless I graduate to serious IFR. I'll take and post photos soon...
  15. I'm a Mooney owner and 'Space member, so please forgive me for this shameless plug of my company's Pilot's Tool kits: http://www.cruztools.com/products/gatools.html
  16. My A&P is just wrapping up a panel upgrade on my 66 E, which includes replacement of the tach with an EI CGR 30P. If you're still in the market in a few weeks - after I've had a little time with the new stuff - I'll be able to offer the old analog tach (see photo)....
  17. Advanced Member Members 90 posts LocationNorthern CA Reg #:N6066Q Model:'66 M20E Posted 27 April 2010 - 05:11 PM My archive has a post I salted away from Rob Hoyle, who graciously provided the measurements and markings from the dipstick he (and the prior owner) calibrated for his 1964 C model, and which seems to be VERY well calibrated to my '66 E model. I stick the tanks before filling to see what I expect, and compare the result to my fuel totalizer and the numbers off the gas pump- the stick is usually right on the money. Get a wooden paint stir stick from Home Depot or similar, then mark it with a finepoint sharpie. The fuel soaks into the wood just enough to make it easy to see the level when you pull it out, but is dry enough to be easy to measure the next tank by the time you've walked over and pulled the cap. Inches Gallons 9 26 8 1/2 25 8 24 7 5/8 23 7 1/4 22 6 7/8 21 6 1/2 20 6 1/16 19 5 3/4 18 5 7/16 17 5 1/16 16 4 13/16 15 4 1/2 14 4 1/8 13 3 7/8 12 3 1/2 11 2 11/16 9 2 3/8 8 2 1/8 7 1 3/4 6 I can't remember the last time I procured ANYTHING for the airplane that was this cheap and useful. Regards, Knute '66 M20E - KSQL (San Carlos, CA)
  18. You'll find threads elsewhere in this forum on the subject. I have a '66E and used markings posted by another owner with a similar vintage. I made a stick using 1" square wood, and spray painted the top bright orange to remember not to drop it into the tank. It reads a little lower than actual, but that's good, and is part of every pre-flight check.
  19. Thanks for the CGR-30P report. I'm in the process of buying one as part of a minor panel upgrade.... Dan
  20. I'm based out of Columbia, and Patty's Shack is a short hike from the airport (walk Airport Road to the end, and turn right - it's across the street on the left). Auburn is a very popular breakfast run, but expect a busy pattern on weekends. Dan
  21. I'm also a newish pilot and M20E owner with about 50 hours in the E. There's a lot of ways to plan your descent, but I was advised by a very experienced LASAR-associated pilot to "fly like you stole it" during descent as long as you watch Vne (and of course smooth air conditions). I aim for gradual descents of about 500 ft./min., then pull MP back to about 15 and go about 100 - 200 feet below pattern altitude since I pull up the nose to slow down for gear retraction and will gain that altitude back. This works pretty well, but I'm still looking to further refine my technique. Right now my problem is judging throttle setting at base for proper coasting to threshold. I'll think I've done it perfect and still be too high or low and have to make late adjustments....
  22. I had the same problem with my 170B - NAV worked great but COM range was feet, not miles. LASAR found it to be an antenna issue - don't know the details. COM works great now...
  23. I've been contemplating an avionics upgrade as well on my '66 M20E. The GTN650 is nice, but figure on spending $13k or more installed for that alone. And it's a tiny MFD. Add at least another $3k - 4K for an installed KT74 (or similar like AXP340), and you still don't have ADSB-in. I'm having a tough time reconciling this kind of spending on a plane that's worth about $40k. The recently announced Freeflight Rangr FDL-978-XVRL caught my attention. At $3695 (without installation) it provides ADSB in and out, a WAAS GPS receiver, control head, install kit, and Wi-Fi for your tablet. As far as I can tell, I'm only giving up GPS ILS approaches compared to the GTN (although there's probably a way around that) and I'll have a much nicer MFD in the iPad. That would free up funds for something really important like one of the newfangled engine monitors from EI or JPI. Thoughts from the community?
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